XRAY X12 - 2015 Specs
#47
Off the top of my head;
Narrower chassis
Lipo's more rearward
Asjustable camber gain (was a mod you had to do yourself before)
Centre pivot has changed and has greater range of movement.
Come with 'long shock' conversion which can be fitted.
Skiddins
Narrower chassis
Lipo's more rearward
Asjustable camber gain (was a mod you had to do yourself before)
Centre pivot has changed and has greater range of movement.
Come with 'long shock' conversion which can be fitted.
Skiddins
#48
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
I built my 2015 last week, the machining isn't absolute perfect but went together smoothly without any hinder. the steel steering pivot issue is corrected after actually having the car on my hand, I felt that orange doesn't look so bad. hopefully the color don't scratch off too quick.
I got my car 3 weeks ago however I didn't start building immediately because I got a new servo for it. The new servo is BLS671svi which is ~3mm narrower than any 1/12 servo of previous generation (eg:Futaba s9650, KOpds-951...) as shown in the image below.
As you can see, one end of the servo up to the spline are almost identical but the other end is shorter. The holes for servo mount was design around PDS-949 so I can only attach the servo mount on one side and tape the servo to chassis. It was absolutely fine but having friend who can CNC chassis for much lower price I have his copy a chassis and make a few change for me.
my car was built using the custom chassis which is exactly the same except one side of the hole for servo mount was made into a slider that I can now using either old or new 1/12 servo of my like. I also reduce the front width by 2mm to give sharper cornering. the car handle great. my 2014 also have reduced front width but the new car has better turn in and out. the rear moving battery and forward shock mount give larger room for electronics.
I absolutely love the new car, my tract time improve without too much changes to the setting. the tire wear is good, less coning than previous model. hopeful Xray can make the servo mount semi slider to fit more choice of servo. the battery can move forward by 1.5mm as the power pug is too close to the side tube and will hit each other during deep compression of canter shock
I got my car 3 weeks ago however I didn't start building immediately because I got a new servo for it. The new servo is BLS671svi which is ~3mm narrower than any 1/12 servo of previous generation (eg:Futaba s9650, KOpds-951...) as shown in the image below.
As you can see, one end of the servo up to the spline are almost identical but the other end is shorter. The holes for servo mount was design around PDS-949 so I can only attach the servo mount on one side and tape the servo to chassis. It was absolutely fine but having friend who can CNC chassis for much lower price I have his copy a chassis and make a few change for me.
my car was built using the custom chassis which is exactly the same except one side of the hole for servo mount was made into a slider that I can now using either old or new 1/12 servo of my like. I also reduce the front width by 2mm to give sharper cornering. the car handle great. my 2014 also have reduced front width but the new car has better turn in and out. the rear moving battery and forward shock mount give larger room for electronics.
I absolutely love the new car, my tract time improve without too much changes to the setting. the tire wear is good, less coning than previous model. hopeful Xray can make the servo mount semi slider to fit more choice of servo. the battery can move forward by 1.5mm as the power pug is too close to the side tube and will hit each other during deep compression of canter shock
#49
I built my 2015 last week, the machining isn't absolute perfect but went together smoothly without any hinder. the steel steering pivot issue is corrected after actually having the car on my hand, I felt that orange doesn't look so bad. hopefully the color don't scratch off too quick.
I got my car 3 weeks ago however I didn't start building immediately because I got a new servo for it. The new servo is BLS671svi which is ~3mm narrower than any 1/12 servo of previous generation (eg:Futaba s9650, KOpds-951...) as shown in the image below.
As you can see, one end of the servo up to the spline are almost identical but the other end is shorter. The holes for servo mount was design around PDS-949 so I can only attach the servo mount on one side and tape the servo to chassis. It was absolutely fine but having friend who can CNC chassis for much lower price I have his copy a chassis and make a few change for me.
my car was built using the custom chassis which is exactly the same except one side of the hole for servo mount was made into a slider that I can now using either old or new 1/12 servo of my like. I also reduce the front width by 2mm to give sharper cornering. the car handle great. my 2014 also have reduced front width but the new car has better turn in and out. the rear moving battery and forward shock mount give larger room for electronics.
I absolutely love the new car, my tract time improve without too much changes to the setting. the tire wear is good, less coning than previous model. hopeful Xray can make the servo mount semi slider to fit more choice of servo. the battery can move forward by 1.5mm as the power pug is too close to the side tube and will hit each other during deep compression of canter shock
I got my car 3 weeks ago however I didn't start building immediately because I got a new servo for it. The new servo is BLS671svi which is ~3mm narrower than any 1/12 servo of previous generation (eg:Futaba s9650, KOpds-951...) as shown in the image below.
As you can see, one end of the servo up to the spline are almost identical but the other end is shorter. The holes for servo mount was design around PDS-949 so I can only attach the servo mount on one side and tape the servo to chassis. It was absolutely fine but having friend who can CNC chassis for much lower price I have his copy a chassis and make a few change for me.
my car was built using the custom chassis which is exactly the same except one side of the hole for servo mount was made into a slider that I can now using either old or new 1/12 servo of my like. I also reduce the front width by 2mm to give sharper cornering. the car handle great. my 2014 also have reduced front width but the new car has better turn in and out. the rear moving battery and forward shock mount give larger room for electronics.
I absolutely love the new car, my tract time improve without too much changes to the setting. the tire wear is good, less coning than previous model. hopeful Xray can make the servo mount semi slider to fit more choice of servo. the battery can move forward by 1.5mm as the power pug is too close to the side tube and will hit each other during deep compression of canter shock
I had Sanwa SRG-HR with X12 and X12 2014 and I drilled and made a countersunk hole for the servo.
You could remove front overhang by cutting chassis from the front and doing a separate CF plate for body posts. I did it for many Xray pan cars. Works better if the track is bumpy.
Hope that your new CF chassis is somehow similar to original xray chassis and doesn't flex too much/ or from the wrong places.
#50
Guys being new to 12th scale. I have a performance/setup (have Xray 12 14 spec) questions. What role in setup/performance does the diff play in regards to how tight it is?
Thanks,
Zo
Thanks,
Zo
#51
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...d4b506bf70842d
personally I hold right wheel and spur gear while trying to rotate the left wheel using thumb and index finger. if it doesn't turn it should be tight enough for me (I run 4.5t turbo) The tighter the diff, the more power transfer to the ground during acceleration. hence a little more oversteering out of corner.
according to CRC manual, the ideal diff should be a diff that is loose as possible without slippery on heavy throttler of the power of your choice
hope this help
#53
Download the Xray Xii setup book, it should contain most of the knowledge you need for tuning X12.
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...d4b506bf70842d
personally I hold right wheel and spur gear while trying to rotate the left wheel using thumb and index finger. if it doesn't turn it should be tight enough for me (I run 4.5t turbo) The tighter the diff, the more power transfer to the ground during acceleration. hence a little more oversteering out of corner.
according to CRC manual, the ideal diff should be a diff that is loose as possible without slippery on heavy throttler of the power of your choice
hope this help
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...d4b506bf70842d
personally I hold right wheel and spur gear while trying to rotate the left wheel using thumb and index finger. if it doesn't turn it should be tight enough for me (I run 4.5t turbo) The tighter the diff, the more power transfer to the ground during acceleration. hence a little more oversteering out of corner.
according to CRC manual, the ideal diff should be a diff that is loose as possible without slippery on heavy throttler of the power of your choice
hope this help
Zo
#60
Tech Master
iTrader: (34)