Traction roll is gone.

Next!

We went from 17.5 to 13.5 at our track. It's a huge track. I dropped in a D4 1S I had laying around and it seemed all right. Apparently I'm losing about .6 a lap with it though. I'm going to to try a Fantom FR-1 13.5 RS. I do have a nearly new Reedy at hand to try, just have to pull it from another car. Or should I find a new horse for this ride?

Hi Guys,

Hope everyone is doing well.

For those of you have have lost your World GT foam class at your local track, or World GT-R hasn't taken off, or isn't your cup of tea. I've put together a cool, easy to do conversion to turn your GT4's and 4-R's into RoadKill 10's.

If you haven't seen them go, Pro 10/235mm cars drive very easy and really hustle around a track. They are quickly picking up steam on the racing circuit, and they will be a featured class at Vegas, Cleveland and the Birds this upcoming season.

Here's a link to the conversions...
http://www.teamspeedmerchant.com/news.html

and check out the RoadKill 10 thread for more info and some links to videos.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...10-pancar.html

Have a great day.-Bruce

Bringing back a post from the dead, but it makes more sense than starting a new thread....

Does the GT4/GT4-R have an adjustable front and rear width? If so, what's the rough adjustment range?

The rear with rubber tires is 195 and you can easily shim it up to 200. The front is 194 and can be shimmed on the axles. The front end bulkheads are static, but you can space the lower front arm with shims.

My hobby shop is trying to become a speed merchant dealer with no responses to their emails from speed merchant. Does anyone know how to reach them other than email?
Thanks
idbdoug

I remember back in the Day I was able to call Bruce, try his RCtech member (speedmerchant). Send him a PM

will do
thanks

Weird - Bruce has been no longer than about 12hrs in responding to my emails when I've had questions both before and after the sale within the last few weeks.

Thanks for the info about the measurements. Seems the MX Stang body might be a tight fit up front. I'll give it a try though.

Both me and my hobbyshop who wants to be a dealer have received no responses.
Are you using [email protected] to contact Bruce???
idbdoug

My original email went to the sales@ address, but the reply and all communication afterwards have been from [email protected].

Hey liljohn - still running the same setup you were on page 3 of this thread? Just starting to build my car and I was thinking of starting with your setup, but with little to no droop in the rear since my track is as smooth as it can be. I have the .018, .019, and .020 springs. Just curious if you stuck with the settings you had listed or if you changed something like the front springs to help with the traction rolling.

I last ran 19 springs, and 1* camber up front and .5mm rear droop and shimmed the front axles to as wide as I could. The rest was pretty dialed.

Thanks for the tip(s)!

I have a bit of an odd (and potentially dumb) question. My servo finally arrived last night (pretty basic S9650). The chassis is drilled/countersunk for the included servo mounts in four places - right or left align on the servo I would assume. All four holes on the plastic mounts don't match with the ears on the servo. That's no problem - one screw on each side should be fine anyway. The problem is the width. When the plastic mounts are attached to the frame, they're too close together to get the servo in place. Although I didn't measure, I'm guessing the servo body is around 1/16" - 1/8" too wide. Am I doing something wrong here?

The left and right holes are actually different widths, flip the mounts and check. I thought the other set was futaba. I have a KO/JR sized servo in mine.