Salkin

Maybe a set of the 2.5-2.8 progressive springs, as many uses them also.

Some oils, 350-550 region for shocks and 1000-5000 for diff.

1mm and 2mm alu spacers for setup changes instead of the stock plastic ones.

And maybe some extra outer wheel bearings (in the hubs), as these take some beating and needs to be replaced now and then to ensure a smooth driveline.

niznai

Everybody understands QC is not an exact science, but if you want to be at the top, you have to earn it. When you charge top dollar for your stuff you have an obligation to be at the top. You no longer have another option. There is no balance to be achieved here. A good kit like yours is what everybody expects and deserves as long as they're paying the same price you paid. Luck should have no part of it.

Takvor

Hm, does it worth buying the following?

1) the graphite steering plate (302570)
2) alu dual servo saver arm (302525)
3) alu top deck mount (306516)

R Dodge

Hi Takvor,

I have run the steering plate only a handful of times. I think in high bite it gives a more responsive feel, but I don't think it is completely necessary.

The aluminum swing rack is a definite improvement. It allows a couple extra degrees of steering throw. I set mine to 29* on the inside tire, per Alex's guidance.

The aluminum topdeck mount is nice to have. I like running it to help the car rotate off the sweeper if grip is really high. It keeps the chassis from flexing back there and allows the car to carry more momentum in that instance. If grip is low I do not run it and steering is still good, though it is a slightly different feel because of the way the chassis flexes.

Hope this helps

Skiddins

Yes, but the guy also mentioned he built the T4'14, not the '15!

I had a couple of minor issues with the '14, but like Dale, none with the '15, so perhaps any issues were sorted (which is also the sign of a top notch company).

Skiddins

daleburr

The top-deck post is worth having as an option if you race outdoors. For me it increases traction and stability (assuming you remove the layshaft screws when using it); last year I used it on 50% of the tracks I raced at (Bedworth, Stafford and Cotswolds for UK people).

DCJs are not essential, but if you do decide you want them I'd recommend the Roche ones. Mine have done a full season and still look like new, so they've gone into the '15 car to do a second season.

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Indeed, the guy (me ) was talking about a MY14. But I've also seen quite a few comments about MY15 QA issues too I think

But beyond this, the quality of the graphite (and the "wovening" direction), the anodizing, the machining of the 15 shouldn't be much different than the 14... Which means this can be compared together with whatever other car. Try a yokie - the attention to detail and the parts finish (not talking about the fact that my kit was complete) is just exquisite. Hence my comment that Mario, Juraj and Martin have work to do to reclaim the top spot.

Not more of a Yok fanboi than a xray one, but I just happen to have both atm. When beginners join the club, I still recommend xray (don't know about yokomo reliability yet) but on quality and "luxury", at least on the bench, the bd7 blows the t4's pants off, big time...

Paul

Salkin

I just bulit a T4'15, coming from a Tamiya TRF418, and I rate the T4 build and parts to be at least on the same par. Especially the plastic parts on the xray seems to have better finish than on the Tamiya.

No parts missing in my box.

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

The biggest difference between the Xray and Tamiya is durability, especially of the plastic parts. You could build military tanks out of the Xray plastic, I wouldn't trust the Tamiya plastic to even make toy soldiers.

DamianW

iTrader: (5)

Xray plastics are soft and flexible but tough.

Yok & TRF graphite parts are stiff and strong but more brittle.

Both have pros and cons, personally I think the yoko plastics are the best in the business.

I ran a BD7 14 last year and after building a T4 15 I agree somewhat with Paul.

The T4 15 screws and belts are IMO poor quality. Plastics molding is good but they are softer than I expected. Plastics shims work just fine but feels like a budget car.

Plastic steering bridge arms, very odd IMO.

On the upside the diff feels great and probably wont leak.
Shocks build well although a touch more sticktion than the yokomo shocks they will probably last longer before needing rebuilds which is great for club racing.
Carbon and alloy is top notch.


This is no doubt in mind after the build the T4 is a good car but for the price of the kit and marketed as 'Luxury' it should come with alloy steering bridge arms, higher quality belts, harder plastics, alloy shims and better screws.

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

I believe the Xray and Yoko belts are interchangeable, no? So one could run Yoko belts in a T4?

And I do agree on the screws. Many have heads that are a bit off-center, and they rust. Eek.

DamianW

iTrader: (5)

Just to clarify my last post the T4 is a great car as is the BD7. My comments were nit picking.

Yet to see the perfect car that needs nothing out of the box except perhaps the AMX.

Pretty sure the belts are interchangeable and I suspect after a few weeks I will have BD7 belts in my T4.

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

I'd be curious to hear your thoughts on the two, once you had a chance to run the Xray belts to compare.

I have both the standard and the white "low friction" belts. I find the white belts to feel like higher quality, though they're on a slower car so I can't compare wear. The standard belts seem fine, then again I never had a Yokomo so I'm not opposed to mixing brands for improvements.

vabroom

Not sure about this, but Yokomo front belt is 172 teeth vs Xray's 171 teeth. Both use 63 teeth rear belts.

Geberit

Last year I bought a BD7 2014 and two spare diffs. The car is not so bad but for the diffs I don’t even find the words. To make all three to work (rotate smoothly) half way I needed a whole work day and never got them really to be tight (leaking). Maybe the ‘15 version is better but only for that sake I got a T4 2014. Now I’m driving the T4 ’15 with much success.

Here in Europe you can get a T4 ’15 for 459,90€ and a BD7 ’15 for 479,00€. These are the lowest prices I found in regular RC shops, no special discounts! Maybe you can get them cheaper but the price doesn’t get that much apart anyway.

People will always have their favorites and see things differently (subjective). For me the T4 is working grate and the price is fair for what I get. For someone else it’s a BD7 or TRF419, S411 or VBC, ARC or whatever. It doesn’t even matter what matter is that we have plenty to choose and after a while when you get bored of one you get something else end the story begins from the start.