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Old 05-07-2014, 03:58 PM   #16
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Is there anyway to make that chassis have adjustable camber and adjustable shock position??

I know with my M05 not having either of these adjustable I had all kinds of twitchyness and even issues with the car swapping ends in a blink of an eye. Once I got adjustable camber links and hop up upper shock mounts to make them adjustable all my issues went away and went from being a nightmare drive to absolutely fun!

I'm also runing 30wt front oil and 27.5wt rear oil in the shocks. Still need to get softer front springs.

Yes please keep us updated on the progress.

BTW I think the biggest hurdle your going to have is getting the gearing low enough to be fast enough on the straight.
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Old 05-07-2014, 04:25 PM   #17
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Awesome thread. Keep posting progress/updates. VTA isn't about having the best chassis, it is about getting the best you can out of whatever chassis you are running.

You didn't mention what surface you will be running on. You probably could get away with a front one-way/rear diff on a high bite carpet track. As others have stated, the spool up front (or a tight diff) and a diff in back will give you a good amount of control.

As far as tuning the diffs, you will want to check out the Tamiya Mini Cooper thread here on RCTECH (http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ni-cooper.html). There should be plenty of people that can help you tune your diffs. There might even be some people that can help you achieve higher gearing if you need to go faster.

Don't let the basic design of the TL-01 prevent you from trying to see what it will do. I've seen some very well tuned Tamiya M-03 cars go faster/handle better than a lot of local VTA cars. Although I would recommend having a basic budget in mind for this project. If you run into a dead end with setup, there is no sense in turning this project into a money pit.

Good luck and above all have fun!
Haven't run on the track yet but its going to be a fairly smooth, newly paved outdoor parking lot surface. The car seems to speed up pretty good and temps for the motor was decent so the only thing I need to fix is the twitch as I can't even get up to top speed without spinning out. I did my test with new, untreated tires and no body so maybe that could have affected the handling. Also ran out of anti-wear grease so someone suggested using Lucas Red & Tacky in the diff so I'll try that. As far as being a money pit, I pretty much already bought everything possible from a mechanical standpoint before I began the build so just the small tweaks won't hurt my wallet too bad. Also have a HPI Pro 4, a TA05, and a unbuilt TA06 if things take a turn for the worst. On a side note, I thought this front spool from Tech Racing looked pretty trick...Going in the front diff tonight along with a Lucas Red & Tacky gear diff in the back.

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Old 05-07-2014, 04:35 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by AudioStylz View Post
Is there anyway to make that chassis have adjustable camber and adjustable shock position??

I know with my M05 not having either of these adjustable I had all kinds of twitchyness and even issues with the car swapping ends in a blink of an eye. Once I got adjustable camber links and hop up upper shock mounts to make them adjustable all my issues went away and went from being a nightmare drive to absolutely fun!

I'm also runing 30wt front oil and 27.5wt rear oil in the shocks. Still need to get softer front springs.

Yes please keep us updated on the progress.

BTW I think the biggest hurdle your going to have is getting the gearing low enough to be fast enough on the straight.
I'm using the TL01LA kit so it does have adjustable upper links and several mounting holes for the shocks on the lower arms...not the best setup but at least there are several options. The steering setup is pretty bad though...Lots of bumpsteer and you can't shim anything to correct it. As far as the gearing, I bypassed the 'spur' and run the pinion directly on the 'counter' gear. I can get ratios down to about 3.57 so I should be covered (though I have yet to test pinions over 27T for temps). I had to trim some material from the motor mounting bracket to compensate for some of the larger pinions (25T-29T) too. I'll try running a lighter oil too in the shocks.



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Old 05-07-2014, 08:54 PM   #19
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So much for running that in a TCS event with all the mods that has.

3.5 is a fairly low FDR to be competitive enough. My TC3 is in that FDR range for VTA and it changes with every track layout. Sounds like you have a potential sleeper VTA chassis there.

Definitely curious to see how it stacks up against other newer platforms.
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Old 05-07-2014, 09:30 PM   #20
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Only problem is that the open diff is just that...open...can't tune it with fluids as its not a sealed unit. Hate going the ball diff route as i hate rebuilding them but might not have a choice..ugh..
Try using AE black grease or even something thicker for the rear
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Old 05-08-2014, 07:50 AM   #21
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... I can get ratios down to about 3.57 so I should be covered ...
Great build, had LOTS of fun back in the day with my TL01 in the Tamiya Series, now it somewhere in a box

Depending on the size of your track 3.57 might not be enough, we have run as low as 2.9 fdr at some tracks in fl.
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Old 05-08-2014, 09:28 PM   #22
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Great build, had LOTS of fun back in the day with my TL01 in the Tamiya Series, now it somewhere in a box

Depending on the size of your track 3.57 might not be enough, we have run as low as 2.9 fdr at some tracks in fl.

Wow...2.9 is freakishly low lol...that means I would have to run a 32T pinion against a 29T spur lol...that would look hilarious!...Sometimes I wonder if they picked the right motor for this class as with all this crazy gearing, these cars are going as fast as the 21.5/17.5 guys lol....good thing my track is small and everyone agrees that a 3.5-4 fdr works.
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Old 05-08-2014, 10:13 PM   #23
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Wow...2.9 is freakishly low lol...that means I would have to run a 32T pinion against a 29T spur lol...that would look hilarious!...Sometimes I wonder if they picked the right motor for this class as with all this crazy gearing, these cars are going as fast as the 21.5/17.5 guys lol....good thing my track is small and everyone agrees that a 3.5-4 fdr works.
Yeah, 2.9 is really only for very large outdoor tracks. I personally ran my VTA car at a 2.9 outdoors, then a 3.5ish indoors which was much tighter.

Cool thread btw, kind of making me want to get my neighbors TL01 running again!
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Old 05-09-2014, 10:08 AM   #24
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Awesome thread! I'm going to have to dust off my old Tamiya stuff now....

We have run gearing in the 3.0 range at our local track, but in order to do so, you have to be VERY proficient in keeping up corner speed. I agree with the speeds, some of the faster VTA's would be low A-Main cars in our VTA class. Pretty crazy!
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Old 05-17-2014, 02:27 PM   #25
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Body done, front spool in, 30wt oil all around, and sludged rear diff in...now for some real world testing!

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Old 05-17-2014, 02:49 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by ta03 tuner View Post
Wow...2.9 is freakishly low lol...that means I would have to run a 32T pinion against a 29T spur lol...that would look hilarious!...Sometimes I wonder if they picked the right motor for this class as with all this crazy gearing, these cars are going as fast as the 21.5/17.5 guys lol....good thing my track is small and everyone agrees that a 3.5-4 fdr works.
Honestly.. not even. It depends on the track and the motor, of course, but I have a Novak 25.5 that will run a 2.8... with timing advanced. Granted this is a very long circuit and it (the motor) could be a dog- but in these modern VTA times (almost an oxymoron, eh ?) it is well within reason. GL with that old Tamiya .
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Old 06-12-2014, 02:38 PM   #27
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Did a test run the day before the race and had a catastrophic failure...motor overheated and ESC fried...I'm thinking the front spool paired with the clunky drivetrain created way too much friction/stress. I didn't get any motor temps but after running it for about 10 minutes, motor was too hot to touch and the ESC shutdown (i was running it really aggressive with numerous power slides too lol). Upon lowering the manual timing on the motor (from 45 degrees to 20) the ESC failed to powerup. I may need to switch out the front spool with a standard diff to allow some slip and gear it down a tooth...problem is, I may not have enough speed if my ratio goes above 4.0...the next pinion down will get me to 4.37....hmm...
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Old 09-25-2014, 11:49 AM   #28
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This thread is awesome, I'm rekindling my Tl01 as we peak wish I would of found this earlier, are you still trying with the car or have you give up??
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Old 09-26-2014, 04:00 AM   #29
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I bought 3 of these , brand new old stock a few years back. Had alot of fun with them.
The TL's are a rather brittle chassis, but new replacement empty chassis is really cheap. Get one for spares.
The TL01b (baja) bumper is a worthwhile ad-on , much better than the std bumper

Just for fun, the baja/offroad arms bolt straight on. It gives you a wide car that wont roll and can be power drifted around corners.

You can also cut the TL01 down to mini (m03 ) size to make a 4WD M-chassis.

Last edited by 1101; 09-26-2014 at 04:14 AM.
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Old 09-26-2014, 04:08 AM   #30
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Another great TL01 link. Has a vid of him racing against more modern big $ cars
http://www.rccartips.com/rc-car-proj...miya-tl-01.htm
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