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Old 08-11-2004, 11:20 AM
  #1816  
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Losi- Unless you are at the top of stock class at your local club do not run that setup. It is SUPER hard on the motor, the com will need to be cut every 2 runs or so and the seration will be gone after 1 maby 2 runs max. Its basically a race setup or for someone who likes to spend alot of $ on brushs and lots of time at the lathe. Just my $.02
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Old 08-11-2004, 11:28 AM
  #1817  
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Default monster setup

well wat about this monster setup.reedy 767 brushes and putnam green springs all around?thats good to?i think?
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Old 08-11-2004, 05:38 PM
  #1818  
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Default Re: monster setup

Originally posted by crACkeD ChaSsiS
well wat about this monster setup.reedy 767 brushes and putnam green springs all around?thats good to?i think?
That's a 1/12th scale setup. For TC stock the lightest springs I'd run would be red/green.
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Old 08-11-2004, 05:46 PM
  #1819  
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Default springs wat side?

red on wat side an green on wat side?(+,-)
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Old 08-11-2004, 06:02 PM
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red positive green negative.
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Old 08-11-2004, 06:35 PM
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Old 08-12-2004, 01:12 AM
  #1822  
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Whats a good setup for a P2K2 PRO?
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Old 08-12-2004, 02:53 AM
  #1823  
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-4499 on posative with red spring
-cross-cut on negative with green spring
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Old 08-12-2004, 12:50 PM
  #1824  
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I have a Atlas based stock motor here (purple can, stand up brushes) RPM version, what brushes dou you guys recommend for it?

Is the Atlas MH7-072 brushes any good?
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Old 08-13-2004, 05:44 AM
  #1825  
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Originally posted by Team Duratrax
Whats a good setup for a P2K2 PRO?
On a p2k2 pro i run red springs on + and - and 4503 brushes with no modifications
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Old 08-13-2004, 06:19 AM
  #1826  
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Theres so many combinations ive heard.
Does it even do anything putting green springs on + and so on?
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Old 08-14-2004, 05:56 PM
  #1827  
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Talking Springs

On,y MY opinion;

The more power the motor uses, the stiffer the brush springs have to be. If your motor is going soft at 2 or 3 minute marks, it either needs stiffer springs or needs to go down one tooth on the pinion.

Red on + for stock TC is a good set up to me.

Green on - is also good.

Green on + might be a little light and the brush will be blown away from the com. this causes more arcing which makes for poor commutation. which = less power.

It has been said here many times, stiffer spring more torque lighter spring more RPM. Each has its cost. I prefer the slightly stiffer spring so the comm and brushes stay cleaner with less arcing and pit marks for better performance.

Green on + AND - could be a good combo for 1/12 scale because the power (V*A=watts) is less. But in a touring car, I would go with red/green or Red/red . Some in this forum have said purple/red on a monster for more torque. I have not tried that because I run Pan cars and Off road.
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Old 08-14-2004, 06:26 PM
  #1828  
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I ran my Orion Stock Core today and was getting pulled on the straights by other guys. I ran a 100T spur and 37T rear. It was a long straight where I could reach max RPM.

Can someone tell me what gearing they use? It's very frustrating running a stock motor that nobody uses and not knowing the proper gearing to run.

I'm thinking about switching to a Fukuyama Mako or a Monster just because nobody runs this Orion Stock Core where I race!! Thanks, Donovan
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Old 08-14-2004, 06:46 PM
  #1829  
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I'm running 6.10 FDR on a very small track.
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Old 08-14-2004, 08:21 PM
  #1830  
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Wow, I'm running 6.75 right now on a long track. I think I need different gearing...
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