The O ring is supposed to go inside the shock collar adjuster that rotates. The purpose is to create resistance so the collar doesn't turn on its own.
Regarding the broken tip.. Do you have a drill out bit? If not, I would use a 2mm drill bit and drill into screw, it should catch it and if you're lucky rotate or out. Otherwise you can also drill out and use a 3mm grub screw instead |
Originally Posted by Raman
(Post 14160993)
The O ring is supposed to go inside the shock collar adjuster that rotates. The purpose is to create resistance so the collar doesn't turn on its own.
Regarding the broken tip.. Do you have a drill out bit? If not, I would use a 2mm drill bit and drill into screw, it should catch it and if you're lucky rotate or out. Otherwise you can also drill out and use a 3mm grub screw instead I'm fine with not using the o-ring all together as there's already preload and does not spin on its own. Thanks though! :nod: I do have different easy-outs but not in that size. The tip is a 1.5mm so there's barely any room to drill a hole in the broken bit. :( Yes, I too was thinking worst case, just drill the whole thing out and use a larger set screw. :D |
BTW, has anyone broken the factory plastic bell crank? :confused:
|
Newer TC's are starting to use 4mm grub screws for droop. They're much better because they don't damage the chassis as easily as the 3mm.
I cut and place a little piece of chassis protecter film so that the grub screw doesn't dig in the carbon. |
Originally Posted by Raman
(Post 14161028)
Newer TC's are starting to use 4mm grub screws for droop. They're much better because they don't damage the chassis as easily as the 3mm.
I cut and place a little piece of chassis protecter film so that the grub screw doesn't dig in the carbon. That's a great idea! :nod: |
I took the front arm off the chassis and was able to remove the droop screw from the bottom side of the arm using pliers. Installed new setscrew, now good as new. :D
Borrowed my SabreFD Mini's body and placed it on the Sabre 4WD Mini. :p http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...4wd-mini-5.jpg Side by side.. http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...947-sabres.jpg Tomorrow I'm going to work on the Sabre4WD Mini's alignment and mount standard 60D tires. S-Grips have too much grip on my track surface. I will also up the pinion to 25teeth from 23 teeth. |
You should try some 55D tires. The Team Powers mini tires are a good all around choice. The 4WD Sabre was designed around the smaller diameter tires.
|
In response to your question. A few people have snapped the steering arm and the solution was to turn the servo to run across the chassis and turn the steering expo down.
Regards, Calvin |
Originally Posted by Dan
(Post 14161896)
You should try some 55D tires. The Team Powers mini tires are a good all around choice. The 4WD Sabre was designed around the smaller diameter tires.
Going to play with the weight distribution some more today. I finished the initial alignment and damper settings this am. :)
Originally Posted by caltek1
(Post 14161923)
In response to your question. A few people have snapped the steering arm and the solution was to turn the servo to run across the chassis and turn the steering expo down.
Regards, Calvin |
Do any of you run weights?
I got mine to rotate well, but rotating right is slightly push-under vs rotating left. Any suggestions? TIA |
No need for weights.. switch to a full length LiPo (not shorty) it will balance out the chassis
|
Originally Posted by Raman
(Post 14163271)
No need for weights.. switch to a full length LiPo (not shorty) it will balance out the chassis
I don't need a huge capacity. 3000-4500 would be plenty. |
if round housing full length is what you run... then it makes no sense to spend money on new batteries. I would then look into balancing with weight.
This is what I run in both my TC and Sabre Mini.. http://www.valuehobby.com/elite-70c-6000mah-2s-t.html |
Originally Posted by Raman
(Post 14163318)
if round housing full length is what you run... then it makes no sense to spend money on new batteries. I would then look into balancing with weight.
This is what I run in both my TC and Sabre Mini.. http://www.valuehobby.com/elite-70c-6000mah-2s-t.html I run mostly m-chassis and not all of them can take the rectangular packs, so this is why I only have the round housing Lipo's in full size. I do like the fact that the rectangular ones have wire take off at the top of the battery, even the hardwired ones though. |
Originally Posted by sakadachi
(Post 14163330)
Thanks, for the link. :)
I run mostly m-chassis and not all of them can take the rectangular packs, so this is why I only have the round housing Lipo's in full size. I do like the fact that the rectangular ones have wire take off at the top of the battery, even the hardwired ones though. I paint all my + terminals on the battery with red paint, but still have managed to reverse polarity by not paying attention. I have since resorted to buying only batteries with + terminal on left hand and tie wrapping one wire shorter so it can not reach the opposite terminal.. If I still manage to reverse polarity, I will epoxy the banana plugs in and go back to deans. |
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