tbrymer

iTrader: (10)

Glenn - Here is what some of us at ASR are using.


http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=9930

glennhl

iTrader: (16)

Thanks guys for helping me with the battery mounting.

jpx

Alltough I'm not running at your place I'm interested ...
Would you write down your setup changes and post your setupsheet?

Lord_Darkhelmet

I've been looking around for the full setup/guide to install tc4 rear arms and tc5 front arms/carriers on my tc6.2. I found much of the info on this thread but details like which arm inserts to use and their orientation is missing. Some details on where to drill a new lower shock hole on the tc5 arm is missing as well.

I also had a couple questions about the goal of the modifications:
1. when the shorter rear arm is installed, are the arm mount inserts installed in a particular way to keep the front and rear track width the same? or is the whole point to have the rear track width narrower than the front?

2. Why aren't tc5 rear arms used? They are 2mm shorter then stock tc6 arms and they fit the chassis better (no shimming etc). They would require to use tc5 hubs as well since clearance would be an issue if tc6 hubs were to be used. The tc5 hub is more offset than tc6 hub by almost exactly by same difference as the arm length. so using a tc5 rear arm/hub would yield similar track width as stock tc6 but it would do so with a shorter arm. Does this theory conflict with my first question?

3. is this all pointless to do because either a conversion kit will be released for the tc6.2 or just use tc7 plastic when its available ?

Sorry if this has been brought up before. Its a long thread and my search skills suck. Thanks for any help.

glennhl

iTrader: (16)

I'll try to answer some...

1) Yes, the rear uses the three dot to the outside to keep the track similar to before. The front uses 2 or 3 dot to the inside to keep the track similar. I say similar because I haven't measured it (my calipers only go to 6").

2)Good question, I don't know the answer other than maybe they used the TC4 arms because the are lighter?

3)Another good question. Sean said the steering geometry could be messed up (bump steer) with the TC7 arms. But a friend of mine called Associated to get the new Fox shocks and they told him to wait for the TC7 arms to do the mod to his 6.2.

Lord_Darkhelmet

Thanks glennhl!

Is there a setup sheet somewhere with all the car settings when using the tc4/tc5 arms?

wtcc

iTrader: (2)

Here is mine. It is for asphalt, but was fast on carpet, too.
The front inserts are what was recommended by Randy. The rear ones are what I like (middle corner turn in). But you can start from there.

tazfam2

iTrader: (54)

Anyone have a good starting setup of an 80x100 carpet track. 17.5 and usgt. Thanks in advance

MattW

TC7 kits are available now, so I wouldn't personally do the TC4/5/6 conversion on a 6.2 any more. Either treat yourself to a TC7 kit, or use the TC7 plastics. The bump steer is not screwed up if you continue to use the 6.2 steering block - which you can.

rMa

I'm using TC5 rear arms and hubs, did not change anything else. To me it seems like the rear grip is better, especially when applying throttle in corner exit. It feels like the car reacts to steering input quicker as well. I haven't changed to TC5 parts at the front yet but will do as they are lighter than originals.

glennhl

iTrader: (16)

Do you use just the 6.2 steering block with the new TC7 arm, or do you also use the 6.2 C Hub?

fathead

I think I might look to see if the TC7 arms/hubs will fit my TC4

MattW

TC7 C hub (pin is different diameter, so not easy to use TC5/6/6.2), 6.2 steering block.

Sinnin

iTrader: (10)

I need some tech advice..

I have been struggling to get my car (bought used) to drive straight. Last weekend I split a 0 deg. rear hub down the mold seem. All i could find for a spur of the moment repair were TC5 1 deg hubs. Got them installed and the car now runs amazing with perfect straight lines.

From what I've seen the 0 deg is the hub of choice for drivers. So my question is when I get new 0 deg hubs what should I be looking at to achieve the same results in straight line stability? Or should I just stick with 1 deg?

Some set up info...
Front diff 2 mil paste
Rear diff 40 weight
Shocks 32.5 weight
Rear pin inserts, unknown (markings are worn off)
Run on carpet

hobbs

iTrader: (32)

What motor you are running??

Change the front diff to spool