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Old 03-10-2017, 04:26 AM
  #2011  
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Originally Posted by xevias
Hi Fenix guys,
Originally Posted by colin storey
Originally Posted by Pablo73


Hi guys, feel free to address me directly any question you might have on Fenix Gear diff, I try to check the RcTech message box, every day or so.
For a faster reply, use the message area in our facebook page (see the signature for a link)

In a nutshell, our gear diff is not intented to be used like a TC one, there is no need to fill it.

All you've to do is use few drops of "oil".
You can use something from very light like dry teflon, diff reaction will be fast (car will be very reactive) to heavy stuffs, like 500.000 or 1.000.000 or even more.
Heavier the "oil" more "slower" will be the diff reaction (car will be more easy, kinda planted on the rear).

In a sphere diff, we're used to set it up loose/tight, in a gear diff the there is no chance to have loose/tight, but we can set the reaction of the diff from fast to slow.

Any question, just ask
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Old 03-10-2017, 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Giorgio

Any question, just ask
Hi Giorgio,

Firstly, I really appreciate you taking the time to PM me about the set up.

From above, are you saying thinner oils in the gear diff will increase steering? I have too much rear grip with the tires I'm testing and need to get the car to rotate more through the corner. I need the rear to be less planted.

I've already gone really far with the set up (big camber, soft front springs, stiff side springs) and was hoping the adjustability of the gear diff could help with the balance.
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Old 03-10-2017, 07:26 AM
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What is the difference between the '15/'16 and '17 lower front suspension arms? In other words, will the '17 arms work on the '15/'16?
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Old 03-10-2017, 07:30 AM
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Yes, will work fine.

The '17 arms have less material closer to the hub part so you can access the upper arm swaybar adjustment from under.
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Old 03-10-2017, 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Dan
Yes, will work fine.

The '17 arms have less material closer to the hub part so you can access the upper arm swaybar adjustment from under.
Ok, thanks
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Old 03-10-2017, 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by xevias
Hi Giorgio,

Firstly, I really appreciate you taking the time to PM me about the set up.

From above, are you saying thinner oils in the gear diff will increase steering? I have too much rear grip with the tires I'm testing and need to get the car to rotate more through the corner. I need the rear to be less planted.

I've already gone really far with the set up (big camber, soft front springs, stiff side springs) and was hoping the adjustability of the gear diff could help with the balance.
Thinner oils will definitely give you a more agile car, maybe a bit more temperamental over the kerbs, but I'm pretty sure will appreciate it.

Once again... drops... not "volume".

If you're going to use "silicon oil" , the measurement unit is a "dab of grease", i.e. a small amount of grease on the 4 satellites and the same amount on the outer rings.


More grease will behave (roughly) like heavier grease, with the extra drawback that will be "shoot" all around...
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Old 03-10-2017, 08:50 AM
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is the futaba 9650 servo strong enough? i currently have a full size servo i use in a buggy/tc in it right now
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Old 03-10-2017, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by phatboislim
is the futaba 9650 servo strong enough? i currently have a full size servo i use in a buggy/tc in it right now
I use a savox 1251tg shorty and it works great
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Old 03-10-2017, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by shortcut
I use a savox 1251tg shorty and it works great
Same here!
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Old 03-10-2017, 07:07 PM
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Likewise.
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Old 03-13-2017, 07:31 PM
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Lets talk about shims. I recently picked up a 2016 X1 and replaced the carbon chassis with the aluminum. Just the aluminum chassis, not the rear motor plate. Now the rear carbon plate hangs a tad lower than the chassis, to be exact it's .5mm lower due to the thickness difference. Can I just shim the pivot brace above the chassis to make the whole bottom of the car level?

Second, the Tamiya front wing hangs lower than the chassis. It also hangs lower with the carbon chassis, but is made worse with the thinner aluminum plate. This may not be as crucial since the chassis is behind the wing but what are you guys using to shim the gap? It's about 1-1.5mm lower. Thanks in advance.
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Old 03-14-2017, 12:19 AM
  #2022  
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Fit the matching pod plate, they should be used as a set.

Add spacers under the wing to prevent drag on the track
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Old 03-14-2017, 07:41 AM
  #2023  
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I have a 2mm carbon rear pod plate I can sell for $20 shipped.
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Old 03-17-2017, 11:38 AM
  #2024  
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I was wondering if anyone had an extra pair of steering stops lying around. I'm using the 2 on the car but I'm thinking of using them for something else. I'd hate to buy new steering upright sets just for the little round stops, unless someone tells me the uprights are fragile and break often, then I'd be ok keeping a spare set.
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Old 03-19-2017, 03:12 PM
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I was at the track this weekend , looking at 2 different X1 17 cars. Both of them had different front camber readings. Both were supposed to be 2 degrees, One car had 2 degrees on left front and was showing 4 degrees on right front. The other car was supposed to be at 2 degrees of camber also. It was actually at 3 degrees on both sides. Is it common for these to be off 1 or 2 degrees from what they are set at? I was shocked to see that they were both off like this. Checked with 2 different camber gauges. Both read the same numbers.
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