chensleyrc1

iTrader: (38)

The alum chassis makes the car more consistent to drive with less traction roll on high to very high bite carpet like the new black CRC carpet. And we also use alum chassis on 1/12th scale cars for the same reason. The weight and stiffness of the chassis is what makes the difference.

Also, XRay does make aluminium chassis for both cars.

SavageCanadian

iTrader: (60)

For me I noticed that the chassis always drug on the ground really bad mainly through high speed sweepers and it always hindered the cars steering and every point on the track. Now with the link floating and the chassis narrowed a good 30+mm, the car handles so much better and transitions back and forth way faster.

The Captain

iTrader: (6)

I recently changed from the aluminum to carbon chassis plate, and now my ride height is off by .5mm left to right. I tried removing the screws for all the top plates, laying the chassis flat and tightening the screws, no luck. I feel like I'm overlooking something stupid here, any suggestions?

mbykerman

iTrader: (47)

Is it it the front or the back? If it's the front one of the springs could be collapsed. I find that on my 12th scale from time to time. If it's the back the link pod could be off, ride height adjusters could be different, or one tire sidewall could have more flex in it. Just something to look at. Hope it helps.

freebird

iTrader: (3)

where is the difference on the chassis front; middle ; or back? Since brand new, mine has always had a variation in the middle from side to side. the front and back are rock solid. EA is at my home track and he stated that is nothing to worry about. his 12th scale is the same way.

chensleyrc1

iTrader: (38)

Yes, my '15 has always been a little off in the midsection too. No matter which chassis, it is always a little off, but doesn't hurt performance.

SavageCanadian

iTrader: (60)

Made a few more revisions, changed the chassis shape, added holes to v the pod links and clearanced around where the bulkhead on the pod and the tweak screw area so now it doesn't bind.

SavageCanadian

iTrader: (60)

hey guys so i have perfected the lipo holder part of the kit. The main piece is made from 3mm cf and the link mounts are pocketed to 2.5mm. Also added extra holds to widen the side links for different tuning option (this actually works very well). I thread the holds for the tweak screws so no more ugly blown out holes as well. Price on these 2 piece will be right around $50 for those interested. Uses the crc band to hold the lipo in, no more tape!!!

micrors4guy

iTrader: (50)

Any plans to make one for a 15?

SavageCanadian

iTrader: (60)

Can be done easy it's just a couple extra holes,

Tandum4056

iTrader: (141)

I just picked up a 2017 X1 and I was curious if there are any necessary upgrades or tuning parts that I should pick-up before I start to build the kit. This is my first F1 car. I will be running the F1 on a high traction black CRC carpet track. Should I change the CF chassis to aluminum?

wickedracer

iTrader: (94)

I second the above request. Also who has the aluminum chassis in stock? I have looked at Amain and notta. Which one to get slotted or solid aluminum? And is anyone running a gear diff and or selling any?

Thanks

SavageCanadian

iTrader: (60)

Anyone wanting one for a 15 just pm me

Zerodefect

My car is no where near weight. So I need the solid version when it's available.

astgerma52sp

iTrader: (19)

The softest springs for the front, side, and center is a good place to start. Everyone recommends the flex aluminum chassis.