28LikesCRC F1
02-24-2015, 09:26 AM
#361
Got mine to weigh in at 1051. Was able to get it on the track for the first time, car was very loose and pushed in the sweeper. I was also on TCS tires that haven't been used since September. I have made some changes and will try it again this weekend.
02-24-2015, 12:35 PM
#362
The F104 lower arm has a steering stop moulded into it. The stop won't damage anything but does stop over extension. Which with an open wheel car is a risk if you snag a corner or barrier.
02-24-2015, 12:45 PM
#363
Hi Mark,
I found Tamiya makes a thin flat plate weighing 50 gm that goes under a full-sized lipo battery pack. I plan on adding one under the shorty pack and ESC/Receiver at the rear. Had to order from Hong Kong; so, it won't be here for awhile.
Took the very underweight WTF-1 out for a maiden outing yesterday. Wasn't quite like my CRC WGT and 1/12th scale cars where I won the first races they were in...Got a lot to learn about setting up and driving this puppy.
Thanks for the help. Keep it coming...LOL
Bill
I found Tamiya makes a thin flat plate weighing 50 gm that goes under a full-sized lipo battery pack. I plan on adding one under the shorty pack and ESC/Receiver at the rear. Had to order from Hong Kong; so, it won't be here for awhile.
Took the very underweight WTF-1 out for a maiden outing yesterday. Wasn't quite like my CRC WGT and 1/12th scale cars where I won the first races they were in...Got a lot to learn about setting up and driving this puppy.
Thanks for the help. Keep it coming...LOL
Bill
Our GT12 class has also got a lot of racers thinking about weights. I've seen 1S LiPo sized brass plates now available for 50g and 70g weights.
Yes rubber F1 cars need more set up and different driving to World GT. Stay close to the kit set up and with the right tyres (571/572 or TCS equivalents) and you'll have a good base.
Let us know what the car is or isn't doing and we can make suggestions
Have fun!
Mark
02-24-2015, 12:48 PM
#364
My 3Racing wing sets are here. Time to try one of the front wings in place of the F2012 front on the CRC. They feel firm on the other 1/3 of the wing where the Tamiya sags. I'm trying really hard to keep the PF14 body on this car without putting a second set of holes in it.
02-24-2015, 10:31 PM
#366
I've had some pretty sever crashes with my WTF-1 and surprisingly have not had any issues with the pillow ball ripping out. We have 3 WTF-1 cars running now and with all the practice and race laps we've put in only 1 broken knuckle so far. A far more common problem has been the side springs popping off and getting lost because the new springs without the powder coating do not snap on the mounts as tight as the old springs did.
02-25-2015, 06:10 AM
#367
Use a pliers and twist the top coil of the spring in a little bit more. Provides a tighter fit to prevent this. Other thing I noticed with this issue is how your body is trimmed. The body CRC sells has the two lower portions of the body that run right by the springs, one of our locals used a sanding drum and rounded out the portion right by the side springs to prevent them from being pushed into the spring in a crash.
02-25-2015, 12:54 PM
#368
Actually on my F104 the steering stop broke off in a crash so I just cut off the other side and never had any problems after that.
I've had some pretty sever crashes with my WTF-1 and surprisingly have not had any issues with the pillow ball ripping out. We have 3 WTF-1 cars running now and with all the practice and race laps we've put in only 1 broken knuckle so far. A far more common problem has been the side springs popping off and getting lost because the new springs without the powder coating do not snap on the mounts as tight as the old springs did.
I've had some pretty sever crashes with my WTF-1 and surprisingly have not had any issues with the pillow ball ripping out. We have 3 WTF-1 cars running now and with all the practice and race laps we've put in only 1 broken knuckle so far. A far more common problem has been the side springs popping off and getting lost because the new springs without the powder coating do not snap on the mounts as tight as the old springs did.
I've gone through a half dozen left side knuckles in the last few months. It was mostly due to the sweeper at the end of the straight. (TQ) If you push a little wide, you will tap the outside wall with the steering full lock and pop goes the knuckle. Now that the car is working sooooo much better, I don't do that much anymore. I wish they would run the course backwards so I can use up some of the right side knuckles.
02-25-2015, 01:00 PM
#369
By the way, I have been running my WTF-1 with a 13.5t on 1s and I am really liking it! I think this is the way to go for carpet. It's not any faster but it is much easier to drive and more forgiving on parts and tire wear. I haven't raced this configuration yet but in practice it's been really nice. 
I think this is the way to go for carpet. It's not any faster but it is much easier to drive and more forgiving on parts and tire wear. I haven't raced this configuration yet but in practice it's been really nice.
02-25-2015, 08:17 PM
#370
Tech Adept
I was looking at a downloaded manual for the CRC F1 and got a question for you CRC F1 drivers: All of my tools (and spare hardware for that matter) are metric. Will I need new standard tools for the CRC?
02-26-2015, 06:22 AM
#371
Yes the crc cars is imperial standard US
02-26-2015, 09:17 AM
#372
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
The CRC WTF1 uses both metric and SAE screws. Just follow the manual and it will tell you which screws go where. The kit comes with a bag of allen keys, but the only one you will use is the .035 (the smallest one). You will need a .050", 1/16" and a 3/32" hex driver as well as a 3/16" nut driver. You will also need a 2mm, a 2.5mm and a 7mm nut driver.
02-26-2015, 01:15 PM
#373
Is there anyone out there that sells pre mounted TCS tires. I'm not too good at gluing these.
02-26-2015, 10:42 PM
#374
02-27-2015, 06:12 AM
#375