Barry_Hughes

gear diff in the front = more turn in - less on power steering from Alex Haberg on the Xray forum

hyujmn

iTrader: (27)

That's pretty much exactly what I felt too whenever I tried a gear diff up front. More turn in but less exit.

lethallee69

iTrader: (17)

Now that the 14 has been run for a while now what has been the biggest plus for the car on the track, knowing that mid corner steering could be a problem with the 13, has this been made significantly better with the new car?

Dal

iTrader: (4)

Noob here,
With new tires, rubber muchmore, do I need to rough them up before use, or goop them and heat , or what is the best way to get them ready for first run.
Also, with spec 13.5, I have a novak oldie, what is recomended gear ratio

Xpress

iTrader: (3)

Add caster and run a gear diff...

Barry_Hughes

gear diff = less on power steering

chasingthepack

ok,so hypothetically speaking,youve fitted a 1million front diff cause its wet tarmac and you need more turn in,what would you look to change to get back some on power steering?

Odin544

iTrader: (93)

Less front droop
Lay front shocks down
anti dive
6 degree caster blocks


No particular order. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

imprsme

iTrader: (91)

I am a little confused.....

I see alot saying to run anti-dive and increase caster to gain more steering. I tried this and I seemed to lose some over all steering. Both middle and on power.

I then went back to 4deg caster and put kick up in the car and had way more steering. So much so that I then took about 5 clicks of D/R out.

Even after reading the set up guide a few times I am still not getting why its more common to run anti-dive with more caster vs just running kick up.

Can some one help me under stand this a little better?

EAMotorsports

iTrader: (79)

The more caster you run at the blocks it will cause the car to jack more weight into that wheel and also more camber when turning in the center of a corner. Thus making the car turn more center out but also make the car more tipy (Prone to traction rolling). By running 4 degree with kickup this doesnt cause this quite as much but it will affect how it goes over bumps and tracks down the straights and still be tippy. The kickup will cause it to turn in harder (giving the affect of more steering).

Running 6 degree with anti dive will still have steering but the anti dive will keep the car from being tippy off power due to it not transferring as much weight to the front end off power but still have steering center out with the blocks. The draw back is a loss of steering into the corner. The anti dive seems to work better with a gear diff in the front.

EA

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

My go-to for on-power steering is thicker rear diff. Although that may go against the corner entry from the front diff.

Less front droop, every time I've tried it recently, does give more on power steering, but makes the car much less predictable, and makes it push mid corner. Also, with a front gear diff, it can cause diffing out.

-Mike

DirtSurfer

I have a dumb build question... this is my first TC so bear with me. Most of my surface experience is with off-road 1/8 (otherwise I'm mostly a flier).

Using a Savox 1258MG steering servo and the kit servo saver, with the steering rod in the noon position I can't get the rod to clear the top plate. What's a good alternative here? I can see: lose the saver and use a plain arm; move the ball to the hole closest to the servo axle; angle the saver arm lower (like maybe 10-11 o'clock) and shorten the rod. The latter would be the easiest, but wouldn't that result in an asymmetric steering response? Longer/shorter seems easier to deal with - just tweak the radio slightly. (Airtronics M12 in my case.) Any advice?

daleburr

You can lower the servo in the mount; with it at the top you usually have around 1.0-1.5mm clearance between the servo and chassis. You only really need about 0.5mm clearance to avoid any flex/tweak issues. I put a few pieces of header card on top of the servo when fitting it to space it out (then remove the card).

This has always worked fine for Savox servos for me.

For my new Sanwa servo (which is slightly taller) I've had to fit a rod that uses a smaller hex to avoid the hex hitting the top-deck.

DirtSurfer

Correction: it's a Savox 1251MG (not 1258). I think the underlying problem is the servo is a little too compact and the axle not far enough out. This causes the rod to hit the top deck in the outermost saver hole. It clears the deck in the inner. But then, the saver fails to clear the steering mount/pivot so I can't use the full steering range... If I file off the tip of the saver it should clear the pivot.

Perhaps I can move the servo further outwards - that should solve both problems... Hmm...

DirtSurfer

Solved! Angled the saver block outwards so an inside hole is in the neutral position. Remounted the servo lower, spaced three sheets of printer paper off the chassis. Reduced the ball joint spacers from 4 to 2mm. Took out the servo spacers. It looks to clear enough that I could probably put the servo spacers back in, or go back to 4mm on the ball joint... Anyway, now I feel confident enough about this to shorten that servo lead! Thank you very much for the suggestion to mount the servo lower!