Does anyone else run tamiya titanium screws and find they are pretty darn soft? Trying to get some decent torque onto the bottom plate screws in particular results in a bit of deformation of the head and stripping is really quite easy (even why undoing!)

Are the hiro seiko ones any better? (Or another brand?)

I found that drivers aren't made to the same tolerances. The Hudy and Tamiya driver work best with Tamiya screws. My other brand drivers strip the Tamiya screws like yours.

I have used Square RC Titanium and Aluminium screws for over 8 years now. Never had a problem with them.

I'm using trf (tamiya) drivers exclusively.

Mr. Roche titanium screws have a very tight head and can take some torque. In general titanium screws are softer than good steel screws. I never had a problem using decent titanium screws in critical areas though.

How is the car on a very bumpy asphalt track? Out out door track is very rough. My T4 '14 gets good air time. Need a chassis more suited for our bumpy asphalt track.


Thanks for the info.

Raise your ride height up to 6mm or 7mm and pull out your droop screws if its that bad. Or just buy a TA05 tub chassis car. I don't think switching from one premium chassis to another will help.

Bumpy as in off-road bumpy?

Try a softer suspension setting with higher ride height and more droop.

Has anyone tried a homemade active rear toe system on the 418 like some of the other TCs are using now? Front C-hubs & steering blocks in the rear arms, some ballstuds mounted on the chassis plate connecting to the steering blocks?

It seems to be helping the other cars as you can run less rear toe when going straight (say 1.5 deg) for more speed and then when entering a corner the outside rear will compress giving around 3 degrees and helping stability and rear bite.

I did have a quick look at it when my car was having its bi monthly rebuild. The arms etc all fit on well, I just mounted the ball joint via one of the split suspension screws with a longer screw that went through the block and into a spacer and then had a ball joint on top. (You also need to mount the front roll bar to the rear).

Didnt run it as I never liked that type of layout back in the day when we did it before, it always felt a bit weird to me, and it was another thing to get knocked out of line. But it seems pretty easy to try out (Just need to use some spares from your pit box (I used 3x23mm turnbuckles).

I would rather try some DJ pro suspension than this.. need to dig it out of my loft box.

Yes, they are soft.

No offense intended, but you are mega over torquing them.

http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobi...l%20Screws.htm

14 inch pounds is the torque spec. If you've ever had an inch pound torque wrench that's not very much. We used to use a lot of aluminum screws into aluminum parts on my direct drive car. If you over torqued them, the screws would gall and wreck both parts.

The solution I use is a dab of thread locker (as small as I can put it on the screw, and then wipe it off). I use this stuff, from an industrial supply, hydraulic, or auto parts store. It's a gel like lip gloss so it's easy to use.

http://www.permatex.com/products-2/p...lue-gel-detail

Got my 418 today from Towers. Was $430 shipped with member discount. Couldn't pass up on that deal:nod: On top of that, it was still the one with the bonus parts included:D I guess I got lucky seeing that price went back up to 750:eek:

The X is probably due this Dec, but it is usually a convertible upgrade, so no problem there.

No offence taken at all. You are probably on the money. It's only the bottom chassis screws, I've been cautious of things coming loose and getting tweak - possibly too cautious.

Only happens on the counter sunk ones, not the button heads - they seem to take more grunt.

That's a great price! You should take some comfort in the fact that the cars that the drivers are racing seem to be the same, apart from the weave of the chassis (Which is probably softer to help with mod). Although we cant necessarily spot any minute differences.

Also the new car will probably have the short shocks and low towers that the Evo6 has (Although team drivers are not using them), as the car has to be perceived as different enough to buy a revision.

Are you cyaniding (superglue) the holes? If yes, that might be your problem. The glue acts as a ummm, well, glue. When you torque the screws they bite in the glue and get stuck. You could use less torque on those screws, or move to aircraft grade titanium (there are some suppliers on ebay). Or try Yokomo Ti screws (they have some sets). I find those to be of better quality.

Tamiya sets (even those sold by Tamiya) are the same grade as run of the mill Hong Kong suppliers sell (which is pretty much all after market suppliers). These are soft, but work well with decent tools like Hudy.

Another option would be to give up Ti screws and use steel (12.5 grade) because the car is very light as it is (mine is about 30 grams below weight and we are running at 1340gr, which is light). If your tools are worn, even these will strip though.

The threadlock solution is very good. I use Loctite 262 ( purple ), a very weak threadlocker, mainly to prevent galling and water ingress especially Ti or Al into aluminium but good for steel screws as well.

I use superglue on the chassis everywhere, and torque the screws tight, but never had a problem since using Loctite on the threads. The superglue acts to stop screws backing out (the threadlocker not so much, more anti-corrosion as explained).