418 regretfully selling
 

SOLD SOLD SOLD.......Just don't have the time. No races on it. extra's. text me for pics. 518-495-0703

that was fast!

unsuprising seeing how difficult the kits are to get a hold of right now.

+1 I'm waiting for the likes of Banzai and RCMart to restock.. I know local hobby shops have them.. They're close to $200 more

I think you might be waiting a while.

knowing my luck, i'll order it today (plan to) and they will come in stock before mine is even delivered.

hey guys,

just got my 418 from www.max-hobbies.com

they have limited pieces left.
price is similar to rcmart..

for those interested can try your luck there !

cheers!

Has anyone drilled holes in the shock caps?

Bah, I literally ordered a few hours ago from fusion in the UK

Price is lower, but shipping much higher. Express, insured and tracked vs standard though, so not much in it.

How did you find them?

Apparently the TRF guys used to to get even rebound.

Give it a go, cheap part to replace even if you ruin it!

Post here from Groskamp in 2011. No idea if they still do it?

http://www.rctech.net/forum/9044284-post1491.html

Only way to run them IMO. I know its not the same but when I was running 1/8 nitro off-road, all the Losi guys would run the pre-drilled alloy caps--the reason being by the end of the run the sealed air above the bladder would actually heat up and increase pressure-- increasing the rebound quite a bit. TC most likely won't heat up the air as much but by drilling you totally eliminate that variable as now the air pressure will be relieved. Plus easier to get 0 rebound if that is what you prefer.

I'm willing to wait. I recently moved to Vegas and there doesn't seem to be much of an on-road race scene here, in door or out door.. Just off-road..

What size drill do you use?

1mm is common. If you don't have metric drill bit handy, 3/64" works well.

Just curious but I assume you're drilling a hole in the rubber cap under the aluminum top cap not the aluminum cap itself?

Correct if you are referring to drilling the plastic top cap. The rubber bladder of course does not get drilled.

I drill a hole in the plastic shock cap that connects the shock to the nut on the shock tower. I drill about 45 degree angle from the center (underneath) to the outside of the plastic cap. I prefer this to drilling straight up which would put the hole directly under the connecting nut when the shock is mounted on the car--potentially blocking the air hole. Drilling it out the side alleviates this issue.

The aluminum knurled top cap that gets threaded on the shock body and sandwiches the plastic does not get drilled.

Cool thanks. That's what I figured. I may do this with the shocks on my 417 as I'm thinking of setting it up just for on road running and running the 418 indoors on the local carpet track. Or vice versa.