Certainly don't hear comments like this often about 41X cars

If you really have your heart set on one
There is a guy in Socal that's had a bnib 418 listed for a while now

Thanks. Not as bad as he wants. A little delusional on the price especially a month or so away of the 419. I have given him a fair offer but no go. I guess I will just wait for the 419.

Thanks.

There will be a grip of previously driven 418s on the market once the 419 hits the stores

Yeah I will probably be one of them :D

I'm tempted to hang onto mine as a slower class car / parts grabber - few races a year where 21.5t is required - but that would also mean a new motor/speedo/servo etc.

And the only parts that will interchange are plastics which are a)cheap and b)wear items. Can't even keep it sitting there with stuff like shocks and diffs ready to go.

What would a rebuilt used one go for realistically? 250? 300?

275-300

I think all the 41X series sedans are great handling cars, especially in 13.5 and 17.5 racing classes. Like it's predecessors, the 418 is without a doubt a competitive chassis in these classes. :nod:

I think people are so quick to judge and we should step back and realize the chassis handling issues were noticeable during super highly competitive modified races. In reality, especially in North America, most of us wont be running at such high speeds or up against such competition. The chassis you have now is fine, it does the job. Yes, it might break from time to time but that's inevitable.

Enjoy the 418 chassis, it's truly a work of art and engineering all wrapped in one.

... ps. I own a BD7 and find the 418 more aesthetically pleasing than my current chassis. I bet they would both handle the same at the speeds i"m running.

In total agreement about 41X "Fit, Finish, Precision" points
They are very pretty cars, that work well

I think fit and finish are part of the equation (okay, finish more for aesthetics), but one aspect which may be considered part of the precision is tolerance and I find this is not on par with the 418. Tolerance is not tight enough to ensure things don't shift around, and I found on my chassis, the split suspension blocks have to be realigned very carefully if disturbed (say when adding/taking out shims), otherwise you can end up with wild problems (like unequal toe). This is not okay in my view. Tamiya now provide a different design split block for the 419, (like the Yokomo one) so I guess I'm not the only one who noticed the problem. Even the single blocks can move around a bit enough to require careful tightening down for a play free suspension assembly.

There are other areas that need attention in my view, such as the bulkheads, the shock towers, the servo and motor mounts. Locating keys are useless if they allow that much movement. Not to mention adding to the cost of manufacture for no benefit. These need to have tighter tolerances (probably more expensive), or could use a better design with inserted steel pins captured by (grub)screws (hopefully cheaper if they would cleverly use screws already there) or interference captured steel pins in one of the mating parts.

The Avid from Robitronic comes to mind as a good example of very tight tolerance and brilliant locating keys that properly did their job.

+1 on the tighter tolerances. The 418 is amazing to me. I just got back into on road and years ago when I was dabbling in on road I had a TC6.1. I just didn't know any better. Coming from off road I just thought slight slop was normal. My 418 is tight and when adjust things you can get them perfect and they stay perfect. The 6.1 could wiggle .5mm all day long. It does make a difference.

Most people at our track either have Tamiya or the BD7 and they seem both very great cars.

can we run a gear diff infront ? what parts do i need?

42197

FYI...TAMIYA is now available at Walmart.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps004735e2.png

thanks for the diff part number, will be running the stock 116t gear on a none boost 13.5t motor, should i go with 30T or 29t? on a small out door tight track

29/30 is a FDR in the 7's

Much too long, you need to be about in the 4's for 13.5 non boosted.

You won't achieve it with the stock (116t) spur.