It actually fit perfect, along with the ballstud, and 3mm screw. I believe the problem occurred when I removed it to swap servo. I knew it was going to be a pain to get off, when I got it back onto the new servo that's when the play came about but didn't realize it until I did a swap for a xray saver.

I said earlier in a post I gave up, but I was setting up the car for outdoor I wanted to install a servo saver. Anyways it came off a lot easier than before, that's when I knew. Putting it on the setup station for throw before and after pretty much confirmed it.

Where are you basing this comment from? I didn't read anywhere that kimbrough was even mentioned, may have missed it.

Don't bother with the Kimbrough and get the X-ray servo saver as long as you have a quality servo. The Kimbrough internal coil spring loses tension over time and the plastic construction itself is more flimsy than the X-ray. The X-ray spring clips hold up better over time.

As for me, I'm running a plastic servo arm from VBC. It has a high carbon content so its not flimsy. But I can count on it to snap in a huge crash, to save the servo. Very little slop in my steering setup. So far it has held up great. I run X-ray servo savers in all my other cars.

So the problem is solved. I feel slightly stupid. Only reason I don't feel really stupid is this stumped a lot of folks. Many at my local track that are long time and very good on road racers also couldn't figure it out.

So I tried the inboard hinge pins, no luck they were straight.

Then I just did what niznai suggested. Powered everything up and pulled the tire. This ball stud was loose.
Attachment 1236087
I couldn't see it under the deck nor did anyone else see it. I tightened it up and we are good. Only off now about .5 degree and thats because as many suggested the servo saver is a bit loose.



Thanks for all the help.

I never liked the Kimbrough savers. I always lost steering when I ran them. Found out it was because it was weak. Turned the car on and gave the wheels a good tug and they turned to easily. I stopped running them after that. Maybe things have changed over the years? I dunno. I run the XRay one indoors with great success. I outdoors I go direct horn.

What is the X-ray part number that works for the 418 and rutabaga 25 spline? I may need to try one of those.

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=4904

Try that...

Thanks. That's funny just noticed futaba auto corrected to rutabaga. :blush:

Well, you read it now.

Kimborough is a well known company and it's american. They make servo savers for all servos, and spur gears in various pitch standards.

What do I need to base this comment on? A listing on the stock exchange?

I have used them for a long time and recommend them. Never had any failures or problems of any kind, and no I am not associated in any way with the company. I f anything I hate it because it's difficult to get their stuff outside the US.

And compared side by side, I would say their savers are on par with Xray's and a lot cheaper. Also, their design system gets around the inherent problem of clip springs which push hard against plastics on a very small surface area hence are not prone to destroying the plastics and introduce slop.

My opinion from someone who has owned at least half a dozen Kimbrough servo savers in the past and almost half a dozen current X-Ray servo savers (on all different cars) is they just last a lot longer. And my near 2yr old servo saver from my T4 2013 is still better than my 2 month old Kimbrough. My steering trims sometimes had to be reset after a hard crash with the Kimbrough. A real pain in the ass in the middle of a race. Not so with the X-Ray.

Granted a Kimbrough will probably be better at "saving" a plastic geared servo since the spring tension is weaker, but I assume most people running a high end TC have a high end metal geared servo. Anyways, I'm just an average driver. I wish I could take off the servo savers off my cars and not hit boards. ;)

There's more than plenty tension on the 'bro saver. Try and move your wheels against it with the radio gear on, and if it does move easily, then you're right. If it doesn't, well you'll get a feel for how much effort it would take to make it move in case it needs to.

Try that with the Xray and see how much the servo is going to protest. Personally I think they're over sprung and only run 3 collars in it not four.

My opinion is that the easier the saver gives way, the less the servo has to put up with. This is of course at a reasonable level of holding power. Never had a problem with a 'bro losing center or developing play (their very design is such that any play is taken up, unlike the Xray/Tamiya/etc. collar spring type).

And yes, I have high end servos.

Hmmm.

Not so sure.

Things stump a lot of folks because people are generally polite and don't assume you're a dumbarse hence don't suggest ideas they assume you've already checked.

I noticed a lot of people forget to cover the basics.

Talking about basics, I never liked screwing aluminium into aluminium especially when you have to tighten things a bit. I use the weakest Loctite in such instances (from faint memory I think it's 222, purple stuff) just to keep things in without destroying the delicate allen heads on Aluminium balls (Tamiya charges a small fortune for those). That prevents corrosion too and unnecessary dramas down the track come rebuild time.

I have a couple of really nice 418's I am trying to move...PM me if you are interested!

But not sold yet for the new 419 :lol:

Waste of Money :weird:

I want more flex. If this offers that without going to third party - great.

I think for 17.5 and slower, the 418 is perfect. Borderline at 13.5 (I'm doing all I can to make it sloppy!) but super stock and faster, no good. Chasing your tail too much.

Layout, strength, (un)tweakability, tuning, ease of build - all excellent.