Most of my loose screws are from the steering rack. At least in the past that was the case. Everything else has been fine. I usually tighten things down real good though. Having a good wrench that fits snug helps a lot. I did/do use loctite when tightening down my axle pins, but on the Tamiya it's not needed because they are held in by the c-clips. I mainly use it on moving parts.

I used a small dab of weak loctite (actually the tamiya gel stuff) on the spool.

No where else and no problems here.

Thanks for the replies.

Another question.

I think the servo saver is too "soft" even with the hardest ring.

Was thinking of pressing two rings into the servo saver.

I would believe that on a TC ultra precise steering was needed, so was just wondering about a servo saver that seems quite soft.

The stock XRay T4 saver is what most guys seem to use regardless of TC brand. I myself use one when racing indoors but truth be told when comparing it "by hand" the T4 saver doesn't feel any stiffer than the alloy Tamiya one using the standard 3 bands.

Do you need a servo saver at all.

I know that the servo will be in more danger of damage, but on our 1/10 buggies we do not run with a saver at all.

On our 1/8 buggies we tightened the saver completely in favour of more precise steering.

I run a Savox 1252 servo in the 418, and they are not that expensive.

I would think that the servo in a TC was much less exposed to hits, slams etc. to the wheels than an off road buggy?

I run one of these.

http://www.rcmart.com/images/tamiya-42248-1.jpg

OK, so no servo saver is also used.

Think I will head in that direction :)

Just keep in mind I run at a track with zero boards! Not much to hit side on other than the pit wall!

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...36604_orig.jpg

You're supposed to use all three rings inside each other.

Yes, TC needs very precise steering, but that require a precise servo too.

In TC I think you're more likely to hit hard stuff harder than in offroad.

Besides, keep in mind your buggy wheels are big and soft shock absorbers whereas in TC your tires are just a veneer of rubber smudged on the rim and next in line is your C-hub, suspension hingepin, arm, etc.

I like my cars with no slop at all, hence a saver is the only place where shocks are dispersed/absorbed.

If you have an extra Tamiya servo saver around, add another clip making four total. It's not easy, but the servo saver holds trim afterwords.

I run the solid blue alloy Tamiya horn pictured in another post when running outdoors with my 418. Running indoors with unforgiving boards & walls running a solid horn is a great way to strip a servo which can happen even in a mild tap--especially running an alloy horn as there is virtually zero give.

1/10 scale off road buggies mostly have built in savers in the bellcranks, we used to tighten them down quite a bit but there was still some give. Being that the saver is built in, most run solid horns.

Having run Tamiya servo savers as my first choice for the last 10 years or so I still can't work out how people manage to have so many problems with them. I just build them like the instructions say, no vagueness at all. Maybe the problems come from forcing the springs and damaging the plastics.

I think tension wise the Tamiya saver is fine, at least as stiff as the xray t4 saver. For me its the center to center length on the single hole alloy Tamiya saver that is less than ideal, 16mm I believe? The T4 saver is either 17 or 18 center to center and I believe the blue Tamiya horn is 18. Makes it easier to get full bellcrank throw in either direction with 17-18mm.

The problem with those tamiya servo savers is that they don't center properly. It's an issue in regards to the spring length and the stopper not matching. There are ways to fix it, I do it to all my minis and it stays centered. But I just use the xray saver on my 418 for some peace of mind.

i usually add a drop of CA to the ends of the clips when installed... its pretty sturdy until you hit something hard. if, and when, that happens, just drop some CA glue again before the next run. :)