Bumpy-FW

iTrader: (2)

I Will Be Working On A Rebuild Of My Ta05 This Weekend. I Will Try To Post Pics As I Move Forward On it.

matt_is_superco

iTrader: (75)

And I'll be working my butt off packing and moving my 4BR house this weekend.. I'm interested to see and hear what you find rebuilding your TA05.

Keep the thread alive Bumpy

By the way, with 8mm wide hexes up front and 5.5mm wide hexes in back, my wheelbase is approximately (too big for my caliper) 191mm front and 197mm rear. That's outside edge of tire to outside edge of tire.

Bumpy-FW

iTrader: (2)

What Does Everyones 05 Weigh In At?

Bumpy-FW

iTrader: (2)

Got Th Rear Done. Out Side The Car The Dif doesnt Feel That Smooth ButInstalled It Is Like Glass. Added The Alum Gear Cases From 3 Racing. 45 WT Shock Oil And Red Springs.Rred Sway Bar. Middle Hole On The Shock Tower.

Bumpy-FW

iTrader: (2)

Here she is pre tear down.

Bumpy-FW

iTrader: (2)

All set up to wrench.

This was the cleanest it was all night. lol

Bumpy-FW

iTrader: (2)

Rear end all tore off

- I didn't pull the center pulley. I had just put in some work on it. I had to grind down where the bearings slide in. The motor mount was squeezing the bearings causing extra drag. I used a dremel to grind it very slowly and checking very often so I didn't grind to much.

Fresh diff ready to go in

- I am using the Tamiya alum diff housings, alternated diff pulleys and the Tamiya HCCA diff balls. I have thought about stepping up to ceramics or switching to a gear diff.

- Sanded the rings using 800 sandpaper in a circular motion. about 40 times in each direction, alternating the direction every 10

- I use brake cleaner to spray everything off so there is no grit and it doesn't leave a film

All put back together with my new 3 Racing gear cases.

- I like how they fit plus they eliminate the extra piece for the bearing holder. They have a pin pressed into them instead.

Bumpy-FW

iTrader: (2)

Tonight I Will Be Working On ThE Front End. It Seemed To Be Binding Last night. Also, I Will Be Starting In On Electronics. I Run A Flysky Gt3 Radio. The Receivers ARe Small And Only 7 Bux. The Novak Edge Esc And The Ballistic 25.5 Motor. I Just Picked Up A SpekUm S6070 Servo For It To Replace My Futaba 9550 That Was Starting To Show Some Wear And Went Into My Trf 201 Buggy.

Any Hints On Where To Start For Droop?

Bumpy-FW

iTrader: (2)

What Droop Settings And Ride Heigh Settings Are Most Common For Ta05

jrz93

iTrader: (9)

My local track has minimum at 5mm so I run droop from that 1mm more front 1.5 to 2 rear but depends on traction that day usually in 1/4 turn in or out

rescue119

iTrader: (1)

Hey grizz. Are you using wider hexes?, what is your ride height? Droop?.

I just tore apart my ta05v2 ifs today to get it ready for the new season coming up so looking to improve. The series got ride of the fdr so now that's open. I found going into turns after the straight (100ft) I would roll if I was at speed. I took of the front sway bar and have been playing different springs but I am gonna start from scratch . I am running stock hexes, ball diffs front and rear as well.

Also running the 70 boss body

Grizzbob

iTrader: (2)

Well, as I've said, I'm not entirely sure what exactly my droop settings are(I just set it per the manual, maybe added 1 more mm of droop in front, but that's it, mostly made sure it's even side to side all around). But if you're traction rolling going into a sweeper, it sounds like you may want to go to a thicker sway bar, not remove it(typical setup is yellow front & red rear, but if I need to reduce roll I'll go with a blue in front, & if that makes the car push, I'll put a yellow in the rear). Typical spring setup for me is Tamiya white fronts & red rears, but if I need even softer in the rear, I'll try Associated greens. As for hexes, yes, I'm running Tamiya's 6mm hexes all around, for VTA racing they're needed to keep the VTA wheels from rubbing the turnbuckle rod ends, & about diffs, I do still run a ball diff in the rear(with all ceramic balls & built using tips from Tamiya's Factory driver Jilles Groskamp, you can find his tips videos at www.teamtrf.com , look at the media section, Team TRF Vidoes), but I have a spool in the front, I like its stability under braking & it's aggressiveness under throttle(but if you hit barriers alot, you'll have to be prepared to replace some front uprights & C-Hubs on a regular basis, they do take a lot of abuse when you run a spool). That's pretty much my setup for most classes I run my v2 in, be it VTA or the GT2 class in Tamiya's TCS events....

rescue119

iTrader: (1)

Thanks . I got about a month before the track is setup andbut I am just itching to race

zake540

iTrader: (19)

TA05 are awesome chassis for the VTA class and I have seen them win plenty of times on big races.

I do have a suggestions for those who buy used chassis is to take everything apart and build it to the exact setup as the manual. This will provide you a great stock setup and will be very easy to drive. Though suggestions are great with the other people setups but that setup might not work for your certain track.

Once you have that stock setup then you can (very important) ONE adjustment at a time to find a setup that works for you.

Here is the manual link
http://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/manuals.htm

Have fun guys!

rescue119

iTrader: (1)

I weight in at 1452g i had to add 3 grams to make weight