F201
08-19-2002, 02:06 PM
#46
big al
I'm glad you made it out to race. I had the most fun in the F201 class yesterday. BTW, I'm running the 2000 Ralf Schumacher Williams BMW. Once you get the Pit Shimizu tires, you'll really be able to get the car set up. What gearing are you running? If you gear the car right, it will have more top end. It also helps if you use the Chameleon 2 motor. I have the old one and it is no match for the current one. The F201 class at Castle will likely not allow front one-ways, so keep that in mind before you buy one. Right now, it looks like we'll have the following rules:
19T fixed endbell motor, 24 degrees timing
"Kit style" grooved rubber tires only (no sedan tires.)
No front one-ways
Must run an open wheel (F1 type) body.
No pancar chassis cars.
I'm glad you made it out to race. I had the most fun in the F201 class yesterday. BTW, I'm running the 2000 Ralf Schumacher Williams BMW. Once you get the Pit Shimizu tires, you'll really be able to get the car set up. What gearing are you running? If you gear the car right, it will have more top end. It also helps if you use the Chameleon 2 motor. I have the old one and it is no match for the current one. The F201 class at Castle will likely not allow front one-ways, so keep that in mind before you buy one. Right now, it looks like we'll have the following rules:
19T fixed endbell motor, 24 degrees timing
"Kit style" grooved rubber tires only (no sedan tires.)
No front one-ways
Must run an open wheel (F1 type) body.
No pancar chassis cars.
08-19-2002, 02:48 PM
#47
I had the yellow penzoil car that would stop everytime someone got within 4 feet of it. I didn't want to screw anybody up. Actually mr original chameleon had plenty of top end as well. In the main I tried to soften the motor by bending out a little spring tension...somehow motor had more power?? I think the tires will fix 95% of my problems (don't they always). I had a good showing in sportsman stock,led the racve until my pack dumped ( gotta figure that one out). My f201 on the other hand was pure fun. Had a smile on my face all 6 minutes!!--Al
08-19-2002, 02:53 PM
#48
psycho...
forgot to ask you yesterday... are you running the Pit Med or Hard tires.? I ran with the Hard tires during practice... tried to turn and smacked right into the wall... broke an arm and bent the bones. I think I may need the Med tires. and maybe overgeared it too... 26t pinion on it...
forgot to ask you yesterday... are you running the Pit Med or Hard tires.? I ran with the Hard tires during practice... tried to turn and smacked right into the wall... broke an arm and bent the bones. I think I may need the Med tires. and maybe overgeared it too... 26t pinion on it...
08-19-2002, 03:16 PM
#49
big al
OK, I saw you out there. I remember thinking "must be running the kit tires."
If you don't want to wait for the Pit Shimizu tires to come in, try www.formula1-rc.com. I'm pretty sure he'll have them in stock.
rc-zombies
I'm running medium front, hard rear with the Cross gold springs all around. I finally got the back end to come around the way I want it to. The car felt nearly perfect until the punch went off my battery. Then I started glitching or something in the main. It was wierd. Didn't feel like a glitch, but I can;t find anything wrong with the car. It would just suddenly squirt to the left randomly, but the motor speed didn't change. You're running 26T with the 55T spur? Ummm... that's 5.50:1. Perhaps a little overgeared for that motor!
OK, I saw you out there. I remember thinking "must be running the kit tires."
If you don't want to wait for the Pit Shimizu tires to come in, try www.formula1-rc.com. I'm pretty sure he'll have them in stock.rc-zombies
I'm running medium front, hard rear with the Cross gold springs all around. I finally got the back end to come around the way I want it to. The car felt nearly perfect until the punch went off my battery. Then I started glitching or something in the main. It was wierd. Didn't feel like a glitch, but I can;t find anything wrong with the car. It would just suddenly squirt to the left randomly, but the motor speed didn't change. You're running 26T with the 55T spur? Ummm... that's 5.50:1. Perhaps a little overgeared for that motor!
08-19-2002, 03:24 PM
#51
I NEED A NEW MOTOR!!!! 
08-19-2002, 05:48 PM
#54
I just checked out formula1-rc, very cool site! I had no idea so much stuff was available to hop up the cars.
Any body interested in trading some hop-ups (pit med. tire set ,aftermarket piston set) for Grand theft Auto III? I got it for my birthday and it doesn't run as it should on my now obsolete computer. If interested email me direct. [email protected] thanks--Al
Any body interested in trading some hop-ups (pit med. tire set ,aftermarket piston set) for Grand theft Auto III? I got it for my birthday and it doesn't run as it should on my now obsolete computer. If interested email me direct. [email protected] thanks--Al
08-19-2002, 11:39 PM
#55
big al/psycho- glad to hear guys gatting good results from this car and that your getting it hooked up. How about sharing some of your setup and how does the car behave.
That spec rule sound good. It should keep things fair and make for some good racing.
rc-zombies- How are you guys changing your gearing?
spooky- About your glitching, Take the motor out and have a look at your brushes as you rev it up. Does it arc alot? Does the car glitch when it arcs? This happened to me too and if it does you can fix it bu cutting the comm, change the brushes and maybe even change the motor capacitors. The arc creates too much radio noise and is what's gliching you. The capacitors help keep radio noise down and if the've gone bad then gliching will happen.
Also keep motor and batery wires away from your reciever as much as possible. Try not to have batt. and moto wires running along side your antenna and reciever input wires. Radio noise is induced thru the reciever this way too.Let me know if this helps.
That spec rule sound good. It should keep things fair and make for some good racing.
rc-zombies- How are you guys changing your gearing?
spooky- About your glitching, Take the motor out and have a look at your brushes as you rev it up. Does it arc alot? Does the car glitch when it arcs? This happened to me too and if it does you can fix it bu cutting the comm, change the brushes and maybe even change the motor capacitors. The arc creates too much radio noise and is what's gliching you. The capacitors help keep radio noise down and if the've gone bad then gliching will happen.
Also keep motor and batery wires away from your reciever as much as possible. Try not to have batt. and moto wires running along side your antenna and reciever input wires. Radio noise is induced thru the reciever this way too.Let me know if this helps.
08-20-2002, 09:39 AM
#56
The guys here that are running Chameleon 2's are much faster than me. I think it's the crappy magnets in the old motor. I put the P94 hoods and brushes on my motor and it's still a slug. I may go with a Reedy Spec19 since their magnets are supposed to be very good and I've been happy with the MVP's that I've had.
spooky
I fought a problem with glitching too, but I only had the problem in practice. I eventually figured out it was the practice battery pack that I was using. Might be worth a look if you've exhausted every other possibility.
MYXTYPLYX
I don't know how much help this will be to you since my car is pretty hopped up, but here goes.
Front:
Pit Shimizu medium tire with insert that comes with the tire
Diff set fairly tight so there is no slip (to reduce steering)
3mm ride height (measured on the chassis)
80 weight Trinity shock oil
Square (brand) teflon 2 hole piston
Orange o-ring on the shock shaft inside the shock body
Tobee Craft threaded body shock with 1.5mm preload
Cross gold spring
1.5 degree toe out
1 degree camber
No stabilizer plate
Rear:
Pit Shimizu hard tire with insert that comes with the tire
Diff set fairly tight so there is no slip (to reduce steering)
3mm ride height (measured on the chassis)
80 weight Trinity shock oil
Square (brand) teflon piston
Orange o-ring on the shock shaft inside the shock body
Tobee Craft threaded body shock with 3mm preload
Cross gold spring
2 degrees toe in
1 degree camber
Wing set to "low downforce"
The car is close, but I'm still working on getting the rear balance right and the right amount of steering. I think it has about another .5 seconds a lap in it without a motor change. The only bummer about the 19T spec rule is the motors are expensive. We are trying to get a series off the ground that will use a handout motor and have races at all the Northern/Central CA tracks. That should be cool if we can get it put together. We want to make it like the real F1 series where we have the Grand Prix of San Jose, Grand Prix of Fresno, etc. Most of the tracks are on board, so we just need to put it in motion. At this point, it looks like it will be next year, though.
spooky
I fought a problem with glitching too, but I only had the problem in practice. I eventually figured out it was the practice battery pack that I was using. Might be worth a look if you've exhausted every other possibility.
MYXTYPLYX
I don't know how much help this will be to you since my car is pretty hopped up, but here goes.
Front:
Pit Shimizu medium tire with insert that comes with the tire
Diff set fairly tight so there is no slip (to reduce steering)
3mm ride height (measured on the chassis)
80 weight Trinity shock oil
Square (brand) teflon 2 hole piston
Orange o-ring on the shock shaft inside the shock body
Tobee Craft threaded body shock with 1.5mm preload
Cross gold spring
1.5 degree toe out
1 degree camber
No stabilizer plate
Rear:
Pit Shimizu hard tire with insert that comes with the tire
Diff set fairly tight so there is no slip (to reduce steering)
3mm ride height (measured on the chassis)
80 weight Trinity shock oil
Square (brand) teflon piston
Orange o-ring on the shock shaft inside the shock body
Tobee Craft threaded body shock with 3mm preload
Cross gold spring
2 degrees toe in
1 degree camber
Wing set to "low downforce"
The car is close, but I'm still working on getting the rear balance right and the right amount of steering. I think it has about another .5 seconds a lap in it without a motor change. The only bummer about the 19T spec rule is the motors are expensive. We are trying to get a series off the ground that will use a handout motor and have races at all the Northern/Central CA tracks. That should be cool if we can get it put together. We want to make it like the real F1 series where we have the Grand Prix of San Jose, Grand Prix of Fresno, etc. Most of the tracks are on board, so we just need to put it in motion. At this point, it looks like it will be next year, though.
08-20-2002, 12:58 PM
#57
Originally posted by MYXTYPLYX
....
rc-zombies- How are you guys changing your gearing?
....
....
rc-zombies- How are you guys changing your gearing?
....
Psycho...
other spec 19T motors:
Orion is releasing there version. see:
http://www.team-orion.ch/products/motors_spec.asp
Fantom has one..based on the Chameleon 2.
I may also try the Reedy version... I too like the new MVP. alot better than my P2k2.
Last edited by rc-zombies; 08-20-2002 at 04:13 PM.
08-20-2002, 07:13 PM
#58
