Originally Posted by Cpt.America

Ohhh.. there is ONE issue I noticed today. With my belt on the loosest setting (not actually the loosest, but as loose as I want to run with no slipping). The rear belt actually drags on the bottom aluminum of the motor mount! It actually polished the edge shinny, and I think is part of the overheating issue I have been having. I tighted up the rear belt one notch or so, and it seems to clear it a little better. I think I might have to file down part of my aluminum! I didn't even notice this until today. Anybody else that runs a loose rear belt notice this?

Originally Posted by olhipster1

Yes in low setting 1 and 2 belt will rub lower motor mount standard.
I would recommend to run in 3 slot, belt should loosen after a few runs (same belt rub with cxl).

Build Tip:
If you run front in lowest setting it may rub the front plastic battery positioner. Flip standoff upside down or remove.

Originally Posted by Cpt.America

1.) The Mi5 was a monster today in 17.5 Took all 3 quals and the main today, a lap and half on the field. The car was fast, planted, great balance, zero issues.

2.) So I finally figured out what the "tick tick tick" feeling is as I compress the rear arms of my car (and I noticed it does it a TINY bit up front too). Last I left off, I figured it had to be either the screws from under the chassis were tightened too tight into the pivot balls for the arms, or the pivot ball itself is just catching on the plastic insert in the arm (some kind of friction right there).

So I busted out my light bearing oil, and put tiny drop where the ball meets the plastic bushing/gromit... ran the car 1 run... and the "tick tick tick" is completely gone. booya! There must just be a tiny bit of friction that catches and lets go between the pivot ball, and the bushing that is glued into the arms. The drop of oil did the trick. (im glad it was such an easy fix)

3.) I am now running the 14x4mm screws up into the turn blocks, and MAN what a difference. Those of you just getting this car together, get a set of of those screws and don't even bother running the stock 4mm bolt thingy that comes in the kit. The 14x4 screws feel like they work twice as well as the stock pieces. I don't think we will see many more stripped turnblocks with this mod in place.

4.) Was great pitting with you today, Jaybee. Your car got faster and faster each run throughout the day... bummer about the broken aluminum chassis screw screw in the main.... You were rockin 2nd place for quite a number of laps there. Not too shabby, my man, considering how long it's been since you have been out racing, and in open mod to boot! You will be a monster by next season for sure.

Originally Posted by haywood

My Orca Lipo seems to have a lot of front to back play with the lipo locaters in the middle position. Anyone else have this problem?

Originally Posted by haywood

My Orca Lipo seems to have a lot of front to back play with the lipo locaters in the middle position. Anyone else have this problem?

Originally Posted by chiefj48

can someone give me the part numbers for the Pink, and Blue Yokomo springs???

Originally Posted by JayBee

Hey Brandon, talking about the shocks yesterday, do those come with the Traxxas Revo diff carriers?

Originally Posted by chiefj48

hey guys,

still looking for the springs #'s

I received my kit today, and as everyone stated it looks great!!!!!
(I don't have the updated parts, but I do have the mods....)

I want to thank everyone who posted setup sheets, and mods for this kit!!!

you are ALL a CLASS ACT!!!!

next step is to start the build!!!!

Originally Posted by ASM

Yokys-1565L
Yokys-14575L