goots

iTrader: (20)

there is plenty info on what youre looking for on google, you just need to read more. lock the front without using the thrust bearing or diff balls with glue or epoxy.

50/50 locked front and rear diff
oneway front spins only on power
countersteer is rear wheels spinning faster than front

Brockcorey

Sounds a lot easier than i thought. Ive been reading a lot about terms and there is so much information to know about setup it gets overwhelming. Thanks for all the help and information. When driving with those three styles in short term how does it react compared to each other?

Marv

iTrader: (2)

Caveman scale = ½” strip of leather & gravity.
Close enough for government work and CHEAP, too.

A 1/2" nylon strap may be substituted if you don't have leather.




SIDE TO SIDE:
Line the strap up in the center
Lift the ends up at the same time
Whichever way the car tilts = move your weight (BATTERY) in opposite direction



FRONT TO REAR:
Line the strap up in the center =
Lift the ends up at the same time =
Relocate your electrics or Add lead
You may desire to have a scoach more weight in front than the rear

Daz75

Hello, i used to have one of your cars, the power will always go to the right rear first. Try more camber, or soften the right rear spring. I pretty sure that what i did, an i think that solved the problem. hope this helps and good luck.

Brockcorey

how will the car react with the front diff locked? i dont want to glue it together and find out its not what i want then not be able to go back to the way it was

Marv

iTrader: (2)

READ


Rc Drift Beginners Tutorial

Brockcorey

I have no idea what motor this is and I'm wanting to get the exact one if I can't get it running again. My best guess is a Team EPIC 540 motor but no idea of the turn how can i find what this is? Either by telling me or pointing me in the best direction to find out.

Marv

iTrader: (2)

1) Looks like an OLD 1999-2005ish (?) - TRINITY SPEC 540 type aka CHEAP =
The end bell gives that away...
2) Hard to tell the turns without markings on the can or a sticker
3) Is there anything stamped in the front of the can around the shaft hole???

Without identifying marks or stickers, my best guess is that it could be a 19T, 21T or 27T motor ...
All popular = depending on what type of class the car was run in...

To verify the turns you'll have to sacrifice the motor the the gods of knowledge and open it up, take out the arm, clip one end of the wire and unwrap one of the armatiure "legs" = then count how mant wraps (turns) of wire you just took off = Like this one >>>

Your options (IMAO) are:
A) Stay brushed =
Get a rebuildable custom built brushed motor = http://holmeshobbies.com/
B) Go brushless =
Initial outlay might sting a bit, but well worth it in the long run as far as longevity and maintenance are concerned

Brockcorey

how many turns is that one?

Brockcorey

I started at one spot and unwound it, counting each time i past that same spot. i came up with 27 times. which would mean this was a 27 turn motor right? Since this is for drifting, what would a 17 turn motor do? would it be faster for more detailed drifting? Ive tried searching but its much more specific if i just ask exactly what im looking for.

Marv

iTrader: (2)

There are many forums for drifting in the electric on-road section.

Some are issue specific, some are item specific, some are general...

You will probably score better and faster answers by posting in those forums.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/search.p...rchid=15310908


Yes 27 winds = 27 turns aka 27T motor motor.

A 17 turn motor (geared properly) will go faster.

Less turns = faster (higher RPM) the motor.

I have read that drifting isn't about speed -

Not to worry, if I make a mistake you'll have more people jumping my shit than helping you out.

Slobalt7

You're generally on point Marv, drifting is not about speed at all, it is about exhibition of skill while the car is "seemingly" out of control. I digress I would recommend a 15T brushed motor such as the stock Sprint 2 Firebolt, good balance of high speed and torque. Lock the rear diff, leave the front open or get a 1 way front diff. Don't lock the front unless you want a lot of understeer and horrible response. With the rear locked you will have loads of stability and you will be able to initiate your slide at top speed and anywhere below, with the open rear you will not be able to reach high speed drifts and with the front locked you won't either.

Brockcorey

The rear is locked and the front is open. I ordered a cheap 17T motor for the time being since I'm short in cash. I almost would rather have a brushed motor because I love to "tinker" as my girl calls it I plan on getting a rebuildable motor probably the trinity 15t motor.

Slobalt7

a 17 will work for now, get used to it on a 17T and once you are good on that upgrade, most of the guys on RCDR are running 9-13T brushless with countersteer... I am not that advanced. lol.

Brockcorey

What's RCDR? And that's what I think I'm going to do. By the way you might can tell me; what would the car do differently with the different turn motors? 15t compared to 27t?