05forfun

iTrader: (81)

Hi mok, thanks for the answer, but I still have question about using center one way. The center pulley delivers power to both front and rear pulleys simultaneously, and no matter how the both front/rear pulleys are doing as long as the throttle is open the center pulley always delivers the same power at the same rpm to the both. So in this case the center always rotates forward, then now what is the difference between using one way and normal center? (unless the center has diff function then we can imagine some difference, but we know its not gonna happen). You said using front one way will be the same as using center one way, but as I know front one way still has partial diff function but center doesn't. Can you explain any further? Thanks

mok

iTrader: (9)

I can never really explain this, but here goes..

A direct centre pulley with a front one way will act like a spool when on power (that is both wheels are driven forward, with one wheel being unable to rotate faster than the other).. off power and corner entry, the front one way provides no diff action, but does allow the outside tyre to rotate faster than the inside tyre, giving increased turn-in. Due to the one-way bearing in the front one way, the front wheels can continue to roll forward un-retarded by the braking action of the motor/rear wheels.

A center one way w/ front diff combination is very similar to the front one way, with the main exception being that on power there is no spool like action at the front wheels. On power, the front wheels are powered just like the rear wheels (and in the same way as the front one-way) but there will be a diff action at the front wheels when corning or coming on/off power. This diff action can be adjusted to control the turn-in, unlike a front one way which cannot be adjusted. There is also no braking action due to the one way bearing at the center pulley.

TeamGoodwrench

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for explaining 2 of the 3 options:

1) direct centre pulley with a front one way
2) A center one way w/ front diff

What about the 3rd option ? (front one-way with center one-way) ?

Thanks !

Minami

iTrader: (5)

it would give you a little more turn-in speed.

macscac

iTrader: (4)

not trying to be annoying... it just got lost on the bottom of last page.
can anyone give me some thoughts on that?
much appreciated!!

brownstone101

hello im new to rctech but ive been on rcu for a long time but this is a way better ta05 thread than anything i ever seen so here i am. im running carpet at my local track/hobby store and i finely got my setup halfway ok. i havent done much raceing but im going to get into it.

my question is dose the ta-05 have some habbits built in to it like oversteer? weight issues i think this car is very ballanced but just if anyone has some wisdom on this chassie i would be glad to hear it. ima post my setup if anyones got any pointers also happy to hear.
also what would a good gearing setup be for a 27T motor in 64P im running 30/100 gears in it and it feels a tad slow in the top end but that could also be my inexperience

my setup

ride height
front:5.5mm
rear:5.0mm
camber
all 4 tires -1degree
droop
front/rear 2mm

thanks

mok

iTrader: (9)

I have found the TA05 to be good on carpet with a few minor tweaks..

- camber 1.5 front, 2.0 rear
- move upper shock mount inwards one hole on the rear shocks
- stiffer front shocks than rear (blue/yellow or white/blue)
- 1.5-2.0mm rear droop, 2.0-2.5 front droop
- 0.0-0.5 toe out front, 2.0-2.5 toe in rear
- 0.5mm spacer on front wheels, 1mm spacer on rear wheels

brownstone101

hey thanks ima try what i got and start tuneing it in more at the track havent really got a chance to try this out since when i ran it last time it was really really not setup and haveing issues but i took a day and rebuilt it head to toe and set droop ride height the camber is now even on all 4 tires. i sware i had a miss matched setup handled badley so ima tune it in thank you!

redbones

Hi, I'm running a spool/asphalt setup and having issues where the rear steps out on corner exit. Soon as I apply throttle, it wants to spin. But the spool pulls the car forward enough so that it doesn't. It's drivable, but kinda annoying when under pressure. It shows no sign of oversteer on corner entry. I'm thinking that it's the TA05's characteristic with a punchy motor (17.5).

Any suggestions to fix this?

stocker

iTrader: (2)

How about increasing the front droop a little more?

TeamGoodwrench

iTrader: (4)

Ok guys --

What's the secret to getting rid of the suspension arm slop ??

I've got a TA05-R with the LW suspension. There is quite a bit of slop between the suspension arm and the inner hinge pins (i.e. the holes where the hinge pin goes through seems oversize).

So... thinking I had a bad set of arms, I ordered up another set, along with a new set of hinge pins (this time the titanium coated ones). Same thing ! suspension arms are sloppy on the hinge pins.

So what's the trick ?

Thx.

redbones

This happened to me when I got the 416. The arms had too much slop in them. generally, the sus pins should go in semi-tight and pivots in the pivot balls. You can try to CA the pins and make them tight, but not stuck to the arm holes. Other than that, get some replacement arms and use the current as emergency backups.

TeamGoodwrench

iTrader: (4)

I did get replacement arms and they are sloppy too !!

Are you saying to CA the pins to the arms ? or to put some CA on the pins and let it dry then put the pins into the arms ?

brownstone101

i have removed slop out of other chassies before you can go find some washers that fit in those corners to shim the space between the lock and the arms were those black adjustment parts are that can help remove front to rear slop and maybe help up and down movement. just an idea got to look for the right shims/washers to fit in there tho.

HI_808

Tamiya sells a shim set that can be used for reducing the slop. It's kind of pricey but it'll save you the trouble of looking elsewhere.