Originally Posted by CarbonJoe

Loosen the screws for the hinge pin holders, push the arm towards the hinge pin holder and tighten it. Then press the arm towards the other hinge pin holder and tighten it.This prevents the hinge pin holders from tweaking when you tighten them, making them square to the arm. Result: arms move freely.

Originally Posted by FLAT OUT

Hi Skiddins,
Did you use the kit 350 shock oil and roll centre positions ??

Originally Posted by Skiddins

Some more racing tonight at Newbury in the UK.

In practice tried 2.7 rear springs so I had the same at both ends. This did increase initial steering and made the car more aggressive, but it resulted in the rear breaking loose if you weren't smooth (virtually how my T3'12 was)

Went back to progressive springs.

Next up, more bump steer. I got a former national winning driver to try my car and he said it had lot of initial but lacked mid.
So I added 1mm of bump steer which helped mid corner, added another 1mm for the final so I ended up running 3mm bump steer.

Also tried a gear diff with 2000cSt instead of 1000cSt.

Although the 2000cSt diff didn't appear much faster, 0.02 etc, it did make the car feel more consistent so I was able to stay closer to my fastest laps more often.

So by the end of the evening had kit carpet setup except; 3mm bump steer, 2000cSt in diff and the rear shocks were in the top hole. LTC-R body.

Car felt very good, got my fastest lap to within 0.25s of our 5 times BRCA national champion Chris Grainger's fastest (which is superb by my standards )

Hopefully they'll put the video's up tomorrow so I'll link to it so you can see the results of the changes

Originally Posted by sjh28

That's exactly what I did to confirm it is bent. The arm moves free until the blocks are tightened, I tried reaming the arm but the reamer is like a d*ck in a bucket.

Originally Posted by CarbonJoe

Loosen the screws for the hinge pin holders, push the arm towards the hinge pin holder and tighten it. Then press the arm towards the other hinge pin holder and tighten it.This prevents the hinge pin holders from tweaking when you tighten them, making them square to the arm. Result: arms move freely.

Originally Posted by Skiddins

Some more racing tonight at Newbury in the UK.

In practice tried 2.7 rear springs so I had the same at both ends. This did increase initial steering and made the car more aggressive, but it resulted in the rear breaking loose if you weren't smooth (virtually how my T3'12 was)

Went back to progressive springs.

Next up, more bump steer. I got a former national winning driver to try my car and he said it had lot of initial but lacked mid.
So I added 1mm of bump steer which helped mid corner, added another 1mm for the final so I ended up running 3mm bump steer.

Also tried a gear diff with 2000cSt instead of 1000cSt.

Although the 2000cSt diff didn't appear much faster, 0.02 etc, it did make the car feel more consistent so I was able to stay closer to my fastest laps more often.

So by the end of the evening had kit carpet setup except; 3mm bump steer, 2000cSt in diff and the rear shocks were in the top hole. LTC-R body.

Car felt very good, got my fastest lap to within 0.25s of our 5 times BRCA national champion Chris Grainger's fastest (which is superb by my standards )

Hopefully they'll put the video's up tomorrow so I'll link to it so you can see the results of the changes

Originally Posted by morgoth

When I used the middle on the front bulkhead, my car felt much more consistent. Less roll in the front on initial turn in wich made the rear a lot more stable. With Sorex 28 tires, I started to have grip roll when the grip came up. Move back to in middle hole and the grip roll was gone. But also with my Ride 32 tires, it's a lot better.

Originally Posted by pcar951

I've read some posts saying that the new car has a ton of steering. What about rear grip?

Originally Posted by ghn-sp

Hi everyone, I am thinking of buyng my first electric car - Xray T4......... but the problem is that is not so easy to buy parts to repair the car here in my country.

So I d like to known what spare parts should I buy for my car? What are the most frequents parts needed for repair ?

Can someone post the part numbers, so I can stock them.

Thanks in advance.

GHN

Originally Posted by ghn-sp

Hi everyone, I am thinking of buyng my first electric car - Xray T4......... but the problem is that is not so easy to buy parts to repair the car here in my country.

So I d like to known what spare parts should I buy for my car? What are the most frequents parts needed for repair ?

Can someone post the part numbers, so I can stock them.

Thanks in advance.

GHN

Originally Posted by Skiddins

Is this specifically a problem with one end of the car?

Originally Posted by ChrisP

After installing the arms...tap them lightly with the handle of your driver on the front and rear of the arm near the holder...(something like the Hudy Profi-Tools work well for this as they are plastic and have more weight than the alloy handles)

Originally Posted by sjh28

It is only a problem for one corner. The fronts went together perfect and the other rear went together perfect all being free or able to be freed, this one arm cannot be freed do far. I swapped the pin to the opposite side and the issue transferred with the pin.



I'll give this a try also to see if it helps.

This is my fourth Xray so I am familiar with the usual quality and odd trick with the build. I will try all these suggestions to see if they help as every extra trick you can have up your sleeve is a bonus.

Thanks for everyone's suggestions, I'll let you know if they helped.

It won't stop me from driving the car as the suspension still moves freely, just not when it is the arm only without the upright etc. fitted.