2LikesXray T4 '13
10-21-2012, 04:16 PM
#886
Short, low front link and a long rear link. I tried the short front link and my car had too much roll in the front. The rearend was less predictable and my overal steering increased a little imo. The car was more stable with the medium front link. And after adding a 0.5mm link, the frontend was a bit calmer. I could push the car pretty hard and it was fast in the chicanes.
I should have tried a 2mm shim on the rearbulkhead, but 1mm was also great
I should have tried a 2mm shim on the rearbulkhead, but 1mm was also great
Are the roll bars correct or do you have them the wrong way around?
Also, did you try the rear diff in the low position as well?
Skiddins
10-21-2012, 05:18 PM
#887
Ran my T4 today compared to my IIC car that I qualified 2nd with in Stock. The T4 was .3 faster on fast lap and way easier to drive. I just didnt have much driver today and just hit everything....I guess it was too easy to drive.
Bad note....I would probably go ahead and do the bumper mod that someone posted here and also glue the front screw holes on your chassis. I did neither and tapped the sweeper that shot me into the outside wall head on wide open. It barely pulled a screw head through a layer of graphite but didnt ruin it. I took the screw out, glued everything (like I shold have originally) and it was fine the rest of the day. I even hit some stuff a lot harder than the sweeper hit and no issues.
EA
Bad note....I would probably go ahead and do the bumper mod that someone posted here and also glue the front screw holes on your chassis. I did neither and tapped the sweeper that shot me into the outside wall head on wide open. It barely pulled a screw head through a layer of graphite but didnt ruin it. I took the screw out, glued everything (like I shold have originally) and it was fine the rest of the day. I even hit some stuff a lot harder than the sweeper hit and no issues.
EA
10-21-2012, 05:51 PM
#888
can u share your setup sheet?
10-21-2012, 05:55 PM
#889
Ran my T4 today compared to my IIC car that I qualified 2nd with in Stock. The T4 was .3 faster on fast lap and way easier to drive. I just didnt have much driver today and just hit everything....I guess it was too easy to drive.
Bad note....I would probably go ahead and do the bumper mod that someone posted here and also glue the front screw holes on your chassis. I did neither and tapped the sweeper that shot me into the outside wall head on wide open. It barely pulled a screw head through a layer of graphite but didnt ruin it. I took the screw out, glued everything (like I shold have originally) and it was fine the rest of the day. I even hit some stuff a lot harder than the sweeper hit and no issues.
EA
Bad note....I would probably go ahead and do the bumper mod that someone posted here and also glue the front screw holes on your chassis. I did neither and tapped the sweeper that shot me into the outside wall head on wide open. It barely pulled a screw head through a layer of graphite but didnt ruin it. I took the screw out, glued everything (like I shold have originally) and it was fine the rest of the day. I even hit some stuff a lot harder than the sweeper hit and no issues.
EA
10-21-2012, 07:12 PM
#890
Tech Adept
What other bits are interchangable from the T3'12 to the T4? Specifically Option parts?
Center car weights?
Alu Spring retainer?
Alu Steering arm?
Center car weights?
Alu Spring retainer?
Alu Steering arm?
10-21-2012, 07:47 PM
#891
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
scroll down to the
T1 & T2 & T3 & T4 Parts Cross Reference Table download near the bottom
10-21-2012, 07:57 PM
#892
Ran my T4 today compared to my IIC car that I qualified 2nd with in Stock. The T4 was .3 faster on fast lap and way easier to drive. I just didnt have much driver today and just hit everything....I guess it was too easy to drive.
Bad note....I would probably go ahead and do the bumper mod that someone posted here and also glue the front screw holes on your chassis. I did neither and tapped the sweeper that shot me into the outside wall head on wide open. It barely pulled a screw head through a layer of graphite but didnt ruin it. I took the screw out, glued everything (like I shold have originally) and it was fine the rest of the day. I even hit some stuff a lot harder than the sweeper hit and no issues.
EA
Bad note....I would probably go ahead and do the bumper mod that someone posted here and also glue the front screw holes on your chassis. I did neither and tapped the sweeper that shot me into the outside wall head on wide open. It barely pulled a screw head through a layer of graphite but didnt ruin it. I took the screw out, glued everything (like I shold have originally) and it was fine the rest of the day. I even hit some stuff a lot harder than the sweeper hit and no issues.
EA
thanks
10-21-2012, 07:59 PM
#893
I understand there is room for improvement on the bladders? Is it possible to get 0 rebound if desired?
Anyone have a good starting setup for VTA? I imagine the lower CG will change things. Any recommendations on gear diff oil as well?
I hope for a running change on the bumper soon. It should have never been.
Humm....waiting...waiting...can't wait.
Anyone have a good starting setup for VTA? I imagine the lower CG will change things. Any recommendations on gear diff oil as well?
I hope for a running change on the bumper soon. It should have never been.
Humm....waiting...waiting...can't wait.
I managed to get about 50% rebound when building straight out of the packet.
They go together easily. Also seems like the edges of the bladders are slightly thicker (the point screwing the cap on between the cap first touching the bladder and the cap being tight has greatly reduced) and I think the cap has limited travel so it's harder to pinch the bladder.
Can't remember what Tamiya shocks are like as I haven't used a set in years but these latest Xray shocks are simple to build and appear to be very smooth once built.
I did notice that the pistons seemed to be almost slightly undersized when first put together.
I'm assuming that after spending some time soaking in the oil that they expand slightly.
Skiddins
They go together easily. Also seems like the edges of the bladders are slightly thicker (the point screwing the cap on between the cap first touching the bladder and the cap being tight has greatly reduced) and I think the cap has limited travel so it's harder to pinch the bladder.
Can't remember what Tamiya shocks are like as I haven't used a set in years but these latest Xray shocks are simple to build and appear to be very smooth once built.
I did notice that the pistons seemed to be almost slightly undersized when first put together.
I'm assuming that after spending some time soaking in the oil that they expand slightly.
Skiddins
Last edited by RCknight; 10-21-2012 at 10:27 PM.
10-21-2012, 08:08 PM
#895
10-22-2012, 02:53 AM
#897
I was running 1.4mm in the front and 1.2mm in the rear. Thanks for noticing.I'll fill in the setupsheet again, but in a PDF. Somehow the info was displayed wrong after I saved the setup sheet so I made a screenshot of it.
I haven't ran the diff in the low position. I hope the track layout doesn't change for the next practice session so I can test some more stuff. I also need to test a 2mm shim on the rearbulkhead instead of 1mm.
@RC-knight: No the bladders are fine. With the old shocks, you could break the bladder when tightening the cap too much. With the alu shocks, it has a stop build in. Now you can't tighten it more then you should so you won't tear any bladders from tightening it too much. And the shock is more consistent too after rebuilds :-)
I'd go with 2000 oil in the geardiff as a starting point from medium grip carpet.
10-22-2012, 04:11 AM
#898
Oh ok great, thanks, and I'll start with 2000.
@RC-knight: No the bladders are fine. With the old shocks, you could break the bladder when tightening the cap too much. With the alu shocks, it has a stop build in. Now you can't tighten it more then you should so you won't tear any bladders from tightening it too much. And the shock is more consistent too after rebuilds :-)
I'd go with 2000 oil in the geardiff as a starting point from medium grip carpet.
I'd go with 2000 oil in the geardiff as a starting point from medium grip carpet.
10-22-2012, 10:00 AM
#900
