221LikesTeam CRC Xti 1/12th Scale!!
03-02-2021, 05:42 PM - Wikipost
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07-04-2018, 07:13 AM
#2552
Tech Master
iTrader: (6)
Here’s a list of tools needed for CRC car assembly and maintenance:
.062 (1/16”) Allen wrench for most of the car’s screws
.050 Allen wrench for caster clamps, side link pinch bolts, & pinion gears
.093 (3/32) Allen wrench for rr wheel screws
#2 Phillips screwdriver for front a arm screws
3/16 nut driver for front wheel nuts (preferably deep well so it also works for installing pivot ballstuds)
11/32 nut driver for diff nut
2mm Allen wrench for camber ballstud and motor attachment screws
.062 (1/16”) Allen wrench for most of the car’s screws
.050 Allen wrench for caster clamps, side link pinch bolts, & pinion gears
.093 (3/32) Allen wrench for rr wheel screws
#2 Phillips screwdriver for front a arm screws
3/16 nut driver for front wheel nuts (preferably deep well so it also works for installing pivot ballstuds)
11/32 nut driver for diff nut
2mm Allen wrench for camber ballstud and motor attachment screws
07-08-2018, 06:31 PM
#2553
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Far south suburbs of Chicago area
Posts: 17,634
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Finally got first real chance to drive. Got long way to go but gotta start somewhere.
07-10-2018, 07:18 PM
#2554
Hi guys, is there a thread dedicated to the CK25? I have searched for one to no avail. Thanks!
07-11-2018, 09:47 AM
#2555
this is it
07-12-2018, 10:46 AM
#2557
Wouldn't that mean that you would have to use a smaller pivot ball to get the football lower? If you just lower the football then the lower pod plate would also be affected.
07-12-2018, 11:03 AM
#2558
The reason I think this would be a good tuning choice was from my experience years ago with my first 1/12 car, a 3.2R. I used a captured ball and I remember that car had a much better mid corner feel afterwards. The sideways force of the chassis on the ball in corners will be at a lower level, which would leave more weight on the outside front and less on the outside rear and promote push. I think it would also dampen the lifting of the inside rear tire in corners or traction rolling.
07-12-2018, 01:07 PM
#2559
Tech Master
iTrader: (17)
I would have to cut the bottom "foot" off from the pivot ball and use a different side link ball, or use one of the old style threaded steel balls.
The reason I think this would be a good tuning choice was from my experience years ago with my first 1/12 car, a 3.2R. I used a captured ball and I remember that car had a much better mid corner feel afterwards. The sideways force of the chassis on the ball in corners will be at a lower level, which would leave more weight on the outside front and less on the outside rear and promote push. I think it would also dampen the lifting of the inside rear tire in corners or traction rolling.
The reason I think this would be a good tuning choice was from my experience years ago with my first 1/12 car, a 3.2R. I used a captured ball and I remember that car had a much better mid corner feel afterwards. The sideways force of the chassis on the ball in corners will be at a lower level, which would leave more weight on the outside front and less on the outside rear and promote push. I think it would also dampen the lifting of the inside rear tire in corners or traction rolling.
07-12-2018, 04:34 PM
#2560
It's also going to feel like the car as more overall grip and it won't want to turn as well. With the locked diff this might not be an issue but without it I think you would get a pushy car. We actually raised the pivot and side links and a couple races this year but ultimately found that the stock location was best.
09-29-2018, 08:15 AM
#2562
When using the carbon Z-flex chassis will we have to add weight or is that solid chassis almost heavy enough as it is?
I'm still procrastinating about actually assembling mine, but that chassis is no joke, about a rigid as it gets. Then again, it is 2.5mm+ thick, it feels like something for an old foam touring car, like my Type R that is 2.75mm thick.
I'm still procrastinating about actually assembling mine, but that chassis is no joke, about a rigid as it gets. Then again, it is 2.5mm+ thick, it feels like something for an old foam touring car, like my Type R that is 2.75mm thick.
10-09-2018, 03:54 PM
#2563
Tech Master
iTrader: (6)
Thrilled with my CK25
Thought I’d share some thoughts and experiences about my new CK25. The build was straightforward, with just 2 items that I needed to “correct”. First, the hinge pins fit too tight in the front upper arms. When assembled, the front arms need to drop under their own weight......and they won’t if they are too tight on the hinge pins. Reaming the upper arms gently with a 2mm drill bit easily fixed that issue. Similarly, the little plastic bushing at the bottom of the shock was too snug on the shock shaft. Reaming it with the same 2mm bit yielded perfectly smooth shock function. The only 3 things that I changed at the track which differed from a full box stock setup was going up to .055 front springs, up to 20K tube lube, and I did add the optional 2mm caster block risers because I like a smooth driving feel. After those 3 very minor setup adjustments, the car was FANTASTIC on our track’s black carpet. Easily faster and more aggressive than either of my two previous aluminum chassis cars and just as easy to drive. So my experience with CRCs new CK25 kit confirms what CRC has been saying all along......that spending extra $$ on an alloy chassis plate is just not necessary for running on black carpet. Well done CRC!
10-14-2018, 07:43 AM
#2564
Thanks for the kind words guys. The CK25 is working great in stock trim.
We have corrected these subtle issues on recent shipments of the entire line of cars; upper A-arm hole is fixed, shock plastic pivot cups now are much more positive on the ball studs. In addition, the shock shaft bushing is addressed and "deburred". The was a tiny molding burr that caused the shock shaft to be slightly bound. These are running changes and corrections on new shipments. As Perry mentioned, they are corrected pretty easily.
We take pride in producing an affordable winning car that comes ready to win without a bunch of options. Recent major event wins for CRC, in most cases the drivers have very few option parts installed on their winning ride. Thinking to the winning World Championship car, it was completely stock with the exception of a stiffer rear center spring and a front end brace. We find it amusing when we see other option lists that include special stiff plastic, carbon axles and options chassis that are needed, this after already spending $100 more for the car.
We have played back and forth with the rear pivot and roll centers, seems that each tweak comes with mixed results across different layouts and grip levels. We tend to drift back to stock in our testing.
Also, regarding the tools, a 5/64 and a 2mm hex wrench are pretty much the same and interchangeable.
Again, thank you for all your kind words. See ya at the track.
We have corrected these subtle issues on recent shipments of the entire line of cars; upper A-arm hole is fixed, shock plastic pivot cups now are much more positive on the ball studs. In addition, the shock shaft bushing is addressed and "deburred". The was a tiny molding burr that caused the shock shaft to be slightly bound. These are running changes and corrections on new shipments. As Perry mentioned, they are corrected pretty easily.
We take pride in producing an affordable winning car that comes ready to win without a bunch of options. Recent major event wins for CRC, in most cases the drivers have very few option parts installed on their winning ride. Thinking to the winning World Championship car, it was completely stock with the exception of a stiffer rear center spring and a front end brace. We find it amusing when we see other option lists that include special stiff plastic, carbon axles and options chassis that are needed, this after already spending $100 more for the car.
We have played back and forth with the rear pivot and roll centers, seems that each tweak comes with mixed results across different layouts and grip levels. We tend to drift back to stock in our testing.
Also, regarding the tools, a 5/64 and a 2mm hex wrench are pretty much the same and interchangeable.
Again, thank you for all your kind words. See ya at the track.
Thought I’d share some thoughts and experiences about my new CK25. The build was straightforward, with just 2 items that I needed to “correct”. First, the hinge pins fit too tight in the front upper arms. When assembled, the front arms need to drop under their own weight......and they won’t if they are too tight on the hinge pins. Reaming the upper arms gently with a 2mm drill bit easily fixed that issue. Similarly, the little plastic bushing at the bottom of the shock was too snug on the shock shaft. Reaming it with the same 2mm bit yielded perfectly smooth shock function. The only 3 things that I changed at the track which differed from a full box stock setup was going up to .055 front springs, up to 20K tube lube, and I did add the optional 2mm caster block risers because I like a smooth driving feel. After those 3 very minor setup adjustments, the car was FANTASTIC on our track’s black carpet. Easily faster and more aggressive than either of my two previous aluminum chassis cars and just as easy to drive. So my experience with CRCs new CK25 kit confirms what CRC has been saying all along......that spending extra $$ on an alloy chassis plate is just not necessary for running on black carpet. Well done CRC!
