DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

Well, I still have a car assembled in the pure inline format, maybe I'll get to go to the IIC this year and give it a shot.

Michael_T

iTrader: (52)

What is the part number of the brass pivot balls a few of you have recommended?

Also, what is the advantage of the alu standoffs (#1260) that has also been mentioned?

What track width are most running? In its standard setup mine measures 166mm front end 169mm rear?

Kave

iTrader: (17)

I don't have the part # handy for the brass balls. However, I think there is only one option so you should be able to find it.

I, and several other CRC drivers, run the standoffs because they add rigidity between the chassis and the tweak plate. The plastic ones sometimes will flex a little when you use the included o-ring to hold the battery down whereas the aluminum ones won't flex at all. For a cheap part they are worth it in my opinion.

Your front width is fine but I would suggest spacing the rear out to 171-172mm. You will need a couple shims on each side to get there. What this will do is add rear end stability for you. It will almost feel like you have more grip but at the same time be a little bit smoother.

dumper

iTrader: (1)

Part#32462

Michael_T

iTrader: (52)

Perfect, thanks guys!

Jay!

iTrader: (2)

Does anyone know what the size spur comes with the XTI WC kit? Thanks

RussF

iTrader: (22)

Mine came with an 80 tooth. I since have changed it to a 72 tooth.

fux

Are there any news when the next generation of the CRC chassis will appear? The prototype was already on the track at the WC in Japan.

jrz93

iTrader: (9)

Which front arm top plate for the wc? Short or long? 3276 or 3278

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

For a stock front suspension it would be the short-arm top brace which is longer than the long-arm brace.

That's the long and short of it.

CypressMidWest

iTrader: (1)

WIITA, is exactly right. The car is a bit challenging to dial-in, but when it's right, it's ridiculously fast.

X marksthespot

Thanks to all of those that helped with setup tips and tire tips for my xti ae,car runs much much better now,will be back to ask more questions .

X marksthespot

Hello,quick question about steering link angels,is it better to raise the steering ball up to level the rod or lower the servo saver point so they r straight and level with the chassis,the rods have a very slight reward rake to them to the ball cup on the steering blocks,as if I was looking down on the front end.I read this is what u want with the links.I also think this is what is causing the bump steer,it bumps to toe in as the suspension is compressed.I also believe this is one of the reasons the car has a slight push on the corner exit.So do i lower the servo saver points or raise the the ball stud on the steering block to help cure this bump toe in problem??Sorry for the rant,lol.Thanks a lot for the help.Erik

Friulimotosport

Looking for a new car for the indoor season and would like to see some info on the new car coming out.

big_ads

iTrader: (88)

Depends on what servo saver you are using and what position they are in. I always like to have the rods slightly higher on the outside of the car. I use the xray servo save with the ball studs in the lowest hole and I use a 2.5 mm shim to raise the ball stud on the steering knuckles. The Kimbrough save I always ran the ball studs in the middle holes with a 1mm shim on the steering knuckles.