I use thermalpal between motor and heatsink, improve the fit between them and dissipates heat better.

I run with a CronoRS03, mamba monster 2200kv, 4S 5000-30C Turnigy lipo, and 46/18-19, motor temp after 8-10 min. is about 65ºC

Temp was about 81 F. Gearing 22/46. I did a couple short speed passes but mostly working on my turns. I was running on a pretty wide street. I did adjust take the motor apart last night and checked and cleaned everything then lightly loctighted the screws and reassembled. Also got the gear mesh just right.

81 degrees pretty warm man especially if the sun it out the asphalt will be 115F+
Try running for 5-7 minutes and see what your temps are
10 minutes is a long run, most mains and heats anywhere u go are only 7 or 8 minutes for that reason.
Good you checked the mesh of the spur and pinion. Was going to ask you about that. Definitely don't want that tight.

See where your temps are with a shorter run

2200 mamba in the Serpent cobra GT?
How exactly did u fit that in?

in a Crono RS03 (radiosistemi)...I think that the max. lenght motor in the cobra gt-e is 72mm right? mamba is 74mm :-(

Voltron- how do you like the 2650kv vs the 2250kv in your DM1? Dou you have plenty of tourque? How does acceleration compare?

I like the cooler operation of the 2250, as far as feel of the car it's hard to say
The 2250 would be a better match for the cobra because the extra torque of the 2250 will help spin the thick diff fluids much easier especially with a center diff instead of the solid center gear that most other onroads have.
Both will basically do the same thing just need to gear taller with the 2250

RCWCK has the 2250 in one car and 2650 in another and put down the exact same times with either car. He's a better person to ask on which motor is better because I can't tell much of a difference besides the extra speed in the 2650

To tell u the truth I think I'm going to install my 2650 Mamba Monster combo in the cobra next year and give it a go. The mamba just feels like its a faster motor to me and the ESC on the mamba seems to run much cooler then RX8's
Plus if I start blowing up Motors and ESC's Castles customer service is top notch
Plus it's a 1 year warranty vs 4 month warranty that tekin offers.
Every time I send something back to Mamba the longest I've waited was 10 days
Not to say that tekins service is bad but Castles is incredible
As far as sensored vs unsensored goes I really don't think there's going to be much of a difference. My friend runs 2200 MMm combo in his DM-1 and its smooth IMO. You get the little cogging from when your at a dead stop but besides that its hard to notice a difference. To late in the year to try it out and I'm to lazy to rewire the car but next year I'm giving it a go

Hi Guys,

I have finished my build of this car and have a few questions for the other builders. I contacted Serpent but still have not heard a thing. I'm a little disappointed. This was the best build I have done so far. I wont go into what I have done before but the quality and fit is excellent.
1. On page 7 & 11 it is unclear where to put the shims. The tip shows nothing and is confusing. I ended up with 1 shim either side of the pinion and bearing. The rear was too tight with 2 shims at the front. They need to make the tip clear of shim placement. There are shims on the drive cups which make it all to confusing.

2. Page 19. The sleeve in the rear brace is missing from the graphic. I assume the left over sleeve goes here?

3. For the life of me I cannot get the bottom shock mount to screw up to 33mm from under the shock body. I actually damaged the shafts trying to get there. I eventually went 33mm from the top of the bottom shock cap to the top of the lower mount.
If some one has a good way of cold taping the thread I would appreciate it.

4. Page 21. the lower shock pins are too long. Both are same size for front and rear. The rear is sticking out where as the front is pushed in completely. Even the grub screw on the back is not aligning properly and wants to push the pin out further.

It would be nice to know if anyone else found the same problems?

1. I agree the pictures were useless. I used 1 shim each side in the rear and 1 shim on only one side in the front, sorry cant remember which side. Gear side maybe. Still not sure if it is right but the car runs fine as far as I can tell.

2. Not sure what you mean here, my manual shows the rear brace with one M3x25 attaching to rear tower and 4 M3x12 attaching to battery boxes.

3. It is not easy. I held the piston rod with a pair of pliars and a death grip and inserted one of my allen wrenches through the ball insert and twisted until I got to 33mm. I have done it twice because my setup was way too stiff and just recently changed to the 1.4mm inserts with Losi 100wt in front and Losi 90wt in the rear. It was a real chore each time.

4. The rear pins also stick out on mine, but the set screw still seems to line up with the groove. Mine lock in and have not come out. I measured them and stick out 5mm.

I would also use a generous amount of loctite on the motor mount top set screw and tighten it down as hard as you can. Mine kept kicking out until I went crazy with the loctite and the kungfu grip.

None of my lipos would allow the lids to shut so I lined the trays with the fuzzy side of some industrial single sided velcro and put the rough plastic side on the bottom of all my lipos. Works great even after some pretty some bad crashes. You can use the indents at the front of the trays to pull them loose. I left the lids on because the Integy voltage alarms wedge right in above the lipos and stay there so I dont have to go hunt for them after a wreck. in fact it worked so well I did the same thing to attach my RX8 ESC.

You will also need to trim the motor side of the center diff cover to fit larger pinions.

Thanks Bhodi11 for your tips!

The sleeve I am talking about should be in bag 8 but is not shown on page 19.

On page 32. It is itemised as #600552.

http://imageshack.us/a/img528/7131/81081949.th.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img850/3813/31218065.th.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img802/2265/10543043.th.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img525/132/19222500.th.jpg

Hey Voltron989

I have same set up as you. How are you powering your yeah racing fans.

Do you swap out the JST connectors with receiver types?

I like weight distribution left/right using 2x2S lipos but front/rear is 50% balanced?

the stock spur is made of steel? I think a plastic spur is a good upgrade...

I plug the JST plugs directly into the Reciever

Yep. a plastic spur is on the agenda. The cog is pretty well at the center of the middle diff.