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Old 03-06-2005, 11:30 AM   #1
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Default Team Orion Revolution motor

I just bought a Steenari Pro 12x2. After about half throttle, servo and motor both begin to jump around, very badly. This is the speed controller I have:

http://www.teamtekin.com/Manuals/TEMFET_ESC_1988.pdf

The instructions say it can handle 240a continuous. The same speed controller used to be in a sprint car with a motor that drew atleast the same power as the motor I have now.

I have 2 of these speed controllers, both exhibit the same problem. I don't have a third speed controller of a different make to test. When I put a different motor in, an old worn out 12x1 or an old Peak stock motor, I have no problems (other than the car is slow, lol).

The only answer I can come up with is I need capacitors on the motor, but these v2 motors aren't supposed to need them according to everyone I talk to.

Any suggestion would be immensely appreciated!
Thanks!
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Old 03-06-2005, 11:34 AM   #2
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tekin sucks 1990 it still suck try anything else

Last edited by TSR6; 03-07-2005 at 01:14 AM.
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Old 03-06-2005, 11:51 AM   #3
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Hey

You can check the internal capacitors are working by making sure the LED in the endbell lights up, if it doesn't there's a dodgy connection where the capacitor board touches the brush tubes, this is easily fixed by removing the end bell.

Hope this helps
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Old 03-06-2005, 12:06 PM   #4
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The LED lights up, unfortunately.
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Old 03-06-2005, 01:28 PM   #5
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I just tried it with a brand new (as in never been used except once to insure it worked properly) Novak T4, rated at 176amps, and experienced the exact same problem. I'm highly doubting I have 3 speed controllers malfunctioning the exact same way.
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Old 03-06-2005, 01:57 PM   #6
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have you put on a schottly diode?
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Old 03-06-2005, 02:24 PM   #7
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Lots of time, this is caused by the servo.....but sometimes it can be the reciever.

You basically need to start swampping out stuff until the problem stops.....when it does, you've found the problem unit...


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Old 03-06-2005, 02:40 PM   #8
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i agree with eddieO. what i do is take everything out of the car and lay it on the table. hook it all up as if it were in a car but try spreading it out as much as possible. turn it on and give it throttle and steer it ... and if it still has the problem, then dissconnect the servo, if it still has the problem tray a different motor, esc, or reciever.

also alot of problems occour when the electronics touch each other. try to space out the esc and reciever as far as you can in the given space. and if you have to even try putting it on top of the servo. make sure that the reciever's antenna isnt broken anywere and make sure it isnt touchin the chassis.
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Old 03-06-2005, 03:30 PM   #9
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Can this problem be caused by using cheap batteries? I've been testing the car with some cheap, but new, 1500mah NiCds. I plugged in my new pack of GP3300s, and the problem went away.
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Old 03-06-2005, 03:49 PM   #10
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what kind of connectors do you use. if you use the tamiya/white ones then yes
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Old 03-06-2005, 08:06 PM   #11
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I guess I was wrong, I thought it went away, but it didn't. I use powerpole connectors, so that's not the problem anyways.

I tried putting a capacitor, despite the fact that this motor does not need them, it didn't help.

It still does it when the servo isn't plugged in.

Guess I'll be packaging this piece of **** motor back up and sending it back to where it came from. Lesson learned, always buy Reedy or Trinity.
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Old 03-06-2005, 08:15 PM   #12
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lol, i really doubt its the motor. i will buy it from you though. and have you tried a schottky diode? that is important when using a lower turn mod.
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Old 03-06-2005, 08:26 PM   #13
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lol, I really think it's the motor, because I've eliminated everything else, genius.

This is straight off of Team Orions website:

Inboard capacitor system with LED reduces the possibility of radio interference. A small circuit board containing three integrated capacitors is installed inside the endbell for extra protection. A small LED is also incorporated into the design to verify proper capacitor operation, indicate correct motor rotation, and help view the commutator conditions as the motor is running.


What more do you want? I tried attaching the same capacitors I run on all my other motors, and the problem is still there.

When I bought the motor, I had 3 guys tell me I wouldn't need to attach any diodes or capacitors, that was the whole idea with this motor, otherwise I just would have boughten a Trinity.

I've tried different speed controllers, different recievers, different battery packs, adding capacitors, what else is left?!
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Old 03-06-2005, 08:47 PM   #14
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HVAC - I would try looking at your wires and make sure none of them have any nicks in them. My son had a problem similar to this and it turned out to be a bad wire from the speedo to the receiver.

Personally, if you can figure out the problem, you won't want to go back to Trinity or Reedy.

PS The Shottky diode is used to help keep the ESC cooler, provide consistent braking throughout the run and eliminate transient voltage from going back to the ESC. I run the Novak diodes on all my cars.

Good luck
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Old 03-06-2005, 09:17 PM   #15
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No one reads anymore, do they?

I tried 3 different escs, it made no difference. This tells me it's not the wires, especially when one of the speed cotrollers was brand new.

I've already figured out the problem, the motor was manufactured with a defect, obviously something to do with the board inside.

If the Schottky diode will help, and my capacitors that work great on all my other motors won't, how come everyone working at the hobby shop told me I didn't need to attach any capacitors or diodes?
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