onroad dude

iTrader: (13)

there is really no real right or wrong fill point. you can change the feel of the diff by just putting in less oil. myself i fill to the top of the pin.

AL1983

iTrader: (4)

Hi,
Thinking about replacing my BD7'15 bearings, which set is better? The Yokomo super precision or the ceramics? Are they worth the upgrade? Any other set better? Recommendations please.
Thx,
Albert

El Asso Wipo

thanks

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Just do it consistently so you can feel the impact of a fluid change. A scale helps!

cyba888

on my Bmax4 offroad car it says 1mm above the pin...I now also do this on the BD7. if you cover the satellite gears I think it will be too much and overflow.

jimmylim85

I'm using the Yokomo BD7 ceramic bearing package. Didnt felt much difference other than less maintaining lubricant for it.

jimmylim85

Btw guys, any opinions and advice for me to upgrade my front drive shaft to 3Racing race proven SSK drive shaft? Is it better in handling and powering during cornering? Thanks

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

any DCJ will be smoother, give less chatter, provide more front end, than a single joint. The noise change is striking.

CLovely

What effect does having the centre steering bridge in make?
And having the centre top deck screw in?

jimmylim85

May I know what does DCJ means? Any recommendation? Thanks

b20btec

iTrader: (11)

Double Cardan Joint.

Yokomo, Spec R, Mr. Roche

AllyITA

just a little question from a novice (of touring)

i bought a used bd7 2014, tried a couple of times at the track and i noticed that almost every time i hit something or crash, the steering/suspension links of the front wheel change lenght, trowing completely off trim, camber etc..

is this to be expected in this kind of vehicle or are the plastics worn and in need of replacement? (they seem fine to me).


i know the right answer is "just don't crash", i'm getting there
i'm just not used to this kind of issues; i usually drive 1/8 buggys so i'm used to a bullet proof car.

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

also had very good luck with Arrowmax in the past, at least the old design with two grub screws, the quality was outstanding.

I also recall there was a hack to install TRF joints, as they were supposed to be the best in business... can someone help on that one?

cheers
Paul

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

stop crashing

more seriously - replace balljoints, threads are likely stripped by now and they are moving as soon as you hit anything. I was also told the m3 thread depth of the stock turnbuckles is a bit on the shallow side, as opposed to (for instance) the optional yokomo titanium ones.

HAving said that - the yokomo isn't known for being as consistent under constraint as, say, an xray for instance (which never tweaks, never moves, even under crash...). This is the one thing I'm missing from my T4 '14 (and the non-leaky shocks too!)

Paul

NR

iTrader: (52)

Always best to use a scale, the factory guy's are adding between 1.4 - 1.7 grams of oil. Most of the time 1.7, so I suggest go with that.


Nathan