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Old 04-09-2014, 09:52 PM
  #3961  
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Originally Posted by fatchickterian
Would anyone be interested in plastic battery guides? they are made out of ABS plastic. Suits ferfect on my BD7 and 2014 and using a Thunder power 5300mAh battery:

I have a pair of each left, white and black
The white one is gone, only have the black one left![/QUOTE]

Sorry all gone!
But don't worry, I'll put some more up in the buy n sale page very soon!
Bye for now!
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Old 04-09-2014, 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by CristianTabush
Standard top deck. Same set up, however the set ups we were running were very unconventional.

Most Yokomo guys ended up running the 44.2 FF mount in the rear for very little rear toe in and 5000-10000 wt rear diff oil. This gave the best forward bite and overheated the tires less.
hey cristian i bought a specr gear diff from reflex racing and its binding up my drivetrain in my bd7 2014 have you ever seen this before? or could i have a defective gear diff housing ?
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Old 04-10-2014, 09:24 AM
  #3963  
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I am not sure. Where is it binding? Is it too wide?
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Old 04-10-2014, 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by CristianTabush
I am not sure. Where is it binding? Is it too wide?
yes it appears to be on the belt side in the rear i compared it to the stock one and one side of the gear diff housing is wider by probably 1mm ,I'll take calipers and get a absolute reading to comfirm how much wider
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Old 04-10-2014, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by jdm19turn
yes it appears to be on the belt side in the rear i compared it to the stock one and one side of the gear diff housing is wider by probably 1mm ,I'll take calipers and get a absolute reading to comfirm how much wider
Yes, I've seen that happen on another car. It rubs on the chassis cut out. you can enlarge the cut out or switch back to the Yokomo gear diff...which I think is better IMO.
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Old 04-11-2014, 06:55 AM
  #3966  
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Originally Posted by Racing4Evo
Yes, I've seen that happen on another car. It rubs on the chassis cut out. you can enlarge the cut out or switch back to the Yokomo gear diff...which I think is better IMO.
you where correct i filed a 1/2 mm from the rear now theres no rubbing or binding in the drivetrain problem fixed the stock gear diff isn't as smooth as the spec r one is I've got 1000 cst in stock one that feels like 4k
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Old 04-11-2014, 08:45 AM
  #3967  
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Originally Posted by jdm19turn
you where correct i filed a 1/2 mm from the rear now theres no rubbing or binding in the drivetrain problem fixed the stock gear diff isn't as smooth as the spec r one is I've got 1000 cst in stock one that feels like 4k
I've also seen this happen when the belt adjuster cams are not set exactly the same between left and right sides causing the diff to sit at a slight angle. you may want to check those too
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Old 04-11-2014, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by DOTMAN
I've also seen this happen when the belt adjuster cams are not set exactly the same between left and right sides causing the diff to sit at a slight angle. you may want to check those too
yeah i have that was the first thing i checked when i had the problem It was the diff rubing the slot in the chasiss problem solved
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Old 04-11-2014, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by jdm19turn
yeah i have that was the first thing i checked when i had the problem It was the diff rubing the slot in the chasiss problem solved
now that i think about it. i had a spec R diff in the BD5 without any issues but the chassis cutout in the 7 was a lot smaller and i think i did have some running too.
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Old 04-11-2014, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by jdm19turn
yeah i have that was the first thing i checked when i had the problem It was the diff rubing the slot in the chasiss problem solved
Send me your diff. I'll rebuild it for you.
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Old 04-11-2014, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by JimmyMac
Send me your diff. I'll rebuild it for you.
Speaking of diff rebuilds: I've made two attempts to order shims that'll allow me to use the Kyosho red o-rings that you all recommend. One set was too thick and not large enough to fit around the drive cups. The second set was the correct thickness (0.1mm), but still not large enough to fit around the drive cups. I think both sets were Spec-R parts. Can someone kindly share what part name and/or number they are successfully using? Maybe it's just that Yokomo rebuild kit that was posted a few weeks ago? If so, what part number was that again?
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Old 04-11-2014, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Colbynobo
Speaking of diff rebuilds: I've made two attempts to order shims that'll allow me to use the Kyosho red o-rings that you all recommend. One set was too thick and not large enough to fit around the drive cups. The second set was the correct thickness (0.1mm), but still not large enough to fit around the drive cups. I think both sets were Spec-R parts. Can someone kindly share what part name and/or number they are successfully using? Maybe it's just that Yokomo rebuild kit that was posted a few weeks ago? If so, what part number was that again?
The shims I've referred to go inside the diff to replace the kit one. They are Tamiya diff shims. When I get home tonight I'll look for a part number.
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Old 04-11-2014, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by JimmyMac
Send me your diff. I'll rebuild it for you.
i did every thing but put the thinner diff shims in mine it has the stock ones in it with the kyosho o rings currently but send me a pm jimmy with your address and I'll send it to you to rebuild
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Old 04-11-2014, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by jdm19turn
i did every thing but put the thinner diff shims in mine it has the stock ones in it with the kyosho o rings currently but send me a pm jimmy with your address and I'll send it to you to rebuild
PM sent!

Now I'm looking for the shim part numbers for Colby...
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Old 04-13-2014, 02:11 PM
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Hey everyone,

I could use some quick help. Im looking at getting the BD7 and saw http://www.apexrcproshop.com. Is this a reputable company to buy from? Also it say it come with the special aluminum servo mount, is this the yokomo servo mount it comes with?

Also, anything else i would NEED when buying this car, DCJ's, HPI Silver ....?

I am running 17.5 so reading through the thread it seems i should be at around a 90t spur and a 50t pinion?

Any help would be appreciated as I'm trying to make sure i have all my "i's" dotted and "T's" crossed.
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