kschu

iTrader: (16)

get a graphite knuckle as the plastic knuckle king pin hole is too soft.
front spool cup and some c-blade for rear geardiff and some c-hub too if you crash alot.

Tofast80

Raceway

Bill K

iTrader: (1)

Hi guys,

My name is Bill and recently I purchased my BD-7 from my local Hobby store.

After reading most of this .. large thread I have taken many valuable screenshots of tips and tricks you have been posting throughout the forum; but I'm here now to ask for a general overview of what should and shouldnt be done in order to have a car that is good through the corners and agressive down the straight.

Being that my first car was a Hyper 10 - I've learnt to race aggressivly all my life. now racing the Sakura S Zero down at the track every fortnight, and starting to win races I thought I'd go and buy myself an upgrade.

After reading this forum I learned that this car is not for the aggressive driver; which is a good thing and a bad thing. This is good because it can eventually teach me a smoother driving style, conserving more battery for my races and performing better overall.

I know how to setup my car and I know how to drive, but being a totally different car to what im used to I thought id come here and ask for some advice.

I have already put my car together with no difficulties ready to run on my indoor Bitcherman track; with the book setup and a 5.5 turn motor. I WILLNOT be using this motor for long at all as this is rediculacly crazy on this car. I am waiting on an online order with a new server + 13.5 motor. I am running sorex 28R tires with the soft (pink) Inserts, which usually works well on this track.

I will be running this car for the first time on Tuesday and hopfully everything goes well. I am posting this now so if there is anything important that I should know - I can make changes beforehand

Thankyou all in advance
Bill

5tylez

iTrader: (5)

Here is a list of parts you should buy. Most of us buy from either Rcmarket or Amain. But since your from toronto I would recommend rcmarket as you won't get charged duty.

If you use the stock front cvds, you will notice that they will chatter violently when turning. If u like to drive with drag brake, it will have the same effect entering corners.

The Yokomo double joints from what I hear are terrible...dont buy them.
The spec r v2 bd5 double joints are a direct fit. So I would recommend them.

I use Tamiya double joints (which are based on spec r v2s) with tamiya graphite steering knuckles. Work flawlessly.

List:
Yokomo Front Steering Hub Carrier YO-B7-413W
Yokomo Front Graphite Suspension Arm BD-008FG
Yokomo Rear Graphite Suspension Arm BD-008RG
Yokomo Rear Graphite Hub Carrier BD-415RG
Yokomo Spool Outdrives Steel B-046
Yokomo Short Kingpin Set SD-414S
Yokomo Graphite Steering Block BD-415SG

Yokomo King Pin BD-414B
Yokomo Ball Stud L ZC-206LH

Recommended upgrades:
Yokomo Front Upper Bulkhead CSO BD-7006
Yokomo Alum Rear Hub 0 Deg BD-415A00

5tylez

iTrader: (5)

It depends on your setup and traction conditions.
Ive had my car react both ways depending on traction. We too use sorex 28s at our track.

if your track has medium to high bit, you can easily have the BD7 drive aggressively without being twitchy. if the bit is low, the BD7 will Flow around the corners more.

Another tip to make the BD7 more aggressive:
BD7 has a lot of inherit body roll compared to others like the s411, T4 etc, so make sure you run light weight body, especially if you are running a Speed 6. if you run Reg weight, make sure the body is slammed, well slammed enough so your front tires clear the wheel well when turning. A taller body definitely makes the BD7 look and feel lazy around corners.

Bill K

iTrader: (1)

We have medium to high traction - and rarely we have no traction at all.

I am an aggressive driver, but I know how to control the car in a sensible manor

I want to be able to drive this thing hard, but have the grip to keep it planted.

Bill K

iTrader: (1)

Im using the Bittydesign STRIKER SR body. Would this be ok?

The lexon is coming in on 0.75mm thick. I've used this body on all my cars before, and the aero + downforce on this is amazing

5tylez

iTrader: (5)

I've only tried the Mazda 6, Mazda Speed 6, and LTCR.
looking at some pics, the STRIKER SR looks closer to a LTCR. so chances are it will be an aggressive body. If you find that your BD7 is ass happy, raise the front shock tower position up one or 2 spots. Try the setup I posted up, as most setups available that people posted are generally the same.

are you running front Double joints? Because your car will handle a lot differently depending if you are or not.

Bill K

iTrader: (1)

Everything is stock right now except for the urethane bumper and a mod motor. Therefor I am not using DJB in the front or rear. I've had a look at these and it is nearly 150$ for a set of 4... Is it reall worth it?

It's good to hear that my body should be fine as well!

Also. Where can I find a copy of your setup sheet? I would greatly appreciate having a copy of this!

Thanks again
Bill

5tylez

iTrader: (5)

my setup:
http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/yoko...ceway20130113/

I highly recommend you get graphite arms, steering knuckles and rear uprights on carpet. even better O deg, rear aluminum uprights for more corner speed and durability. Leave the C-hubs as reg plastic.

You only need Double joints for front, NOT rear.
Get these:
http://www.spec-r.com/default/index....roducts_id=245

Yokomo OEM Double joints are weak and come undone apparently.

you will notice that the stock CVDs for front will chatter violently. It will give you a drag brake feel entering corners. when you get Double joints you will carry speed into corners.

Cadman1981

iTrader: (1)

How are these in terms of quality?

Also, where do you get them?

cyclonetog

I just fitted a pair, will be trying the car with them tomorrow.

The pins are 2mm, the std Yok pins are 2.1mm, so they're a little slack in the spool outdrive. It's disappointing really because it's a very simple thing to get right, if I can measure them then surely Spec-R should be able to as well...
It's also a shame because otherwise they seem quite well made. Maybe they fit their own spool better.

5tylez

iTrader: (5)

I've never tried them, but reading this thread, people who use them are happy.

The Spec R V1's were weak. any tap would break them.
Version 2 has heftier dog bones and Joint piece.

The only problem with spring steel is that it has no give. so with enough force it will snap.

I really like the Tamiya DCJs as they are same design but made of steel. wont snap, very durable. I've owned tamiya DCJs since they were released, still have never broken a set.

do a google search.
TQracing online site says instock

5tylez

iTrader: (5)

If you find your Stricker body too twitchy at your Med - High traction track, run a Speed 6 body. that will tame the beast for sure!

12scale

iTrader: (2)

Hi Bill, where are you located and what track do you go to?