eunique

iTrader: (3)

the shock collars that the upper part of the shock springs sit up to...the shock body is threaded and those collars can be rotated up and down the shock body...so, as you thread the collars further down on the shock body, you compress the springs and raise the ride height of the car.
use a height gauge to make sure you are even left to right and even better to use a set-up station/tool like the Hudy-style or equivalent (I use Yeah Racing which is way cheaper in price) to set up camber and toe and basically set-up your car so that they are even from left to right.

pickled

the collars are the adjusters that compress the springs more compression = higher ride but if your using the standard front springs then you'll have those collars wound nearly off their threads lol do you have any setup tools like ride height gauge and camber gauge to set up the chassis? my advice is to buy some blue or purple springs from 3racing and use those the orange springs are too soft
lol I didn't check if this answer went to the next page lol

hahaha lol yeah I just started to get good at it recently. I went to my LHS last night and wow got around the track many many times with out hitting any thing or spinning out much lol. I recommend you guys get a wide body shell 200mm+ and then adjust the chassis' track with offset wheels so much easier to control I was just running without the shell as I only made some magnetic stealth mounts for it today using 10mm neodymium magnets the body protectors and shoe goo. I mounted the magnets to the body with double sided tape

jimmyzrx

well this is not a good start to the day.

the chassis is to long for this body.... looks like i need to find a chassis for it
any suggestions

pickled

looks like the wheel base is ok you can remove the bumper and diffuser

jimmyzrx

part of the motor mount in the front is sticking past the grill too hard to see

i will probably get a tt-01 but im thinking a ta05 would be cool too
unless you want to give me 60.00 for it
that would save me some money

kotar

yea one problem with the D3 is the front motor design makes the front of the chassis longer than most, i got a hpi greddy 350z body and barely fit after i had to cut off all of the foam bumper off my D3,

if you looking to make your body work, i would suggest a 3racing sakura zero s, i have one and it drifts very easily, if your into grip racing its an awesome racer too, that chassis is inexpensive too, with lots of hop-up parts available

jimmyzrx

cool thanks for the info.

pickled

I'd just paint it and put it on a display chassis on a shelf.

td-civ

iTrader: (18)

wow you guys are still at it thats good well i got my d3's back from the guy i sold them too he never ran then and needed money so i made money and got them back so now i have 3 lol

i still run stock cvd's in the front and still work fine i now run boost on my setup and its 100% better with the stock CS

ill try and make a vid of the car soon as i am building a new drift lay out that is bigger and better then the old one so give me some time

pickled

hey good to hear from you again, glad you got your D3's back? have you joined Drift mission's forums there is so much of everything there. mikevillena is doing his Styrene modelling of a Fiat Abarth 1000 TCR engine. you should take a look!

@eunique does your D3 lift a back wheel when you go full lock? Mine has just started to do it I probably need to have a look at my suspension or something?

eunique

iTrader: (3)

I'll have to double check...I didn't think that it did.
But the main culprit would be the droop screw settings...that limits down travel...so you will probably need to back it out.

kwadruppel

Small question about the pins that connect the c-hubs to the lower arms.
For the rear on page 12 it says use the shorter M3x22.9 pins.
For the front on page 13 it says use the longer M3x25 pins.

I think that should be the other way around so the pins are flush with the arms both front and rear?
Obvious detail i guess, but i hadn't even noticed there were two sizes until the last pin

k0t0g

Im in the middle of my d3 build and am having the most horrible issues with all the linkage builds... All of cores are one size on one thread and a larger thread on the other side... So one side threads through the ball link then the other wont... Kind of frustrating.

Anyone have any suggestions as far as getting these to work? I did read that the ball link ends are trash and should be upgraded to RPM. Are there any decent aluminum ball link ends or set I should be looking for?

Might as well just stop the build and wait for the better parts.

Thanks,
Kyle

pickled

yeah I had the issue with the alloy sweepers touching the set screws I use for droop and had to give them a turn to get them out of the way might just take them out.

I just adjusted my arms to fit my chassis better and removed the droop screws now there is no problem

jimmyzrx

remember one side has reverse threads. that got me the other nite i could not get them to thread lol.