FoiVoS_

Thanks Erasus i will take it into consideration . So my question now is : Slow rebound suspension should be at both front and rear coilovers or just on the rear ?

Erasus

Slow rebound usually is done on the rear dampers. The dampers compress normally, but extend more slowly. This results in a more stable handling, especially on rough surfaces, as the damper doesn`t extend abruptly after a fast compression due to the rough surface, thus reducing the "bounciness", prefereably in the rear. It usually makes the rear handle more smoothly and less aggressive.

At least this is what I have read about it. I do not have any first hand experience with slow rebound as of yet, since my Yeah Racing shocks only just arrived in Germany and I am at least a few days away from trying out slow rebound myself.

regards

eunique

iTrader: (3)

this would be another example of a preference thing. In the older carpet drift track layout at Sheldon's I likes the slow rebound on my rear shocks. But now the track is a lot more technical with more switchbacks and liked the way my D3 handled better after switched back to normal rebound dampers.

So I think this would take more into account your track layout and driving style. I would say try it out...keep playing with adjustments. Dont give up easily. You would need to try the adjustments on the dampers also by adding or reducing preload a little at a time and keep practicing. And also the position of shock mount on the sgock towers...little at a time until you arrive at a setting that works for you.

FoiVoS_

Yeah the problem is that when you change something on the suspension a lot of things change and you can't really say if it is better or not ... Anyway which 3racing spring color after the orange(stock) is a step harder ?

jlavador

The Guys over at Top Secret did a great job with my body, I went with the speedline 2.2 rims and the crazy slanted tires they make as you can see in the photo.

Cooperd82

just got this D3 friday. was using a TC4 for Dirtoval/drifting. the D3 is a different beast. Plan on getting my 2 nephews one. only hop ups at the moment is the front oneway and the zero s belt tensioner along with 4 1mm shims under the rear brace so my pack can be removed. I made ALOT of notes in the manual to make it easyer on my older nephew to assemble on his own.
For the price of the kit i was happy with the quality. I read people using grease or shock oils on the screws to reduce and or eliminate screws stripping. i just used Racers Edge clear diff grease, and had no screw problems.
No Spur wobble, or pulley problems besides one i made but its not enough to cause any damage. Only issue is the shocks leak at the cap. my thought is different bladders or cut a set of bladders to make an extra o-ring for sealing.
Just need a few dry days to practice and get a stable setup figured out. There's no drift clubs in my area or tracks besides the one on-road during the summer.
Far as kit quality id call it 8/10. Far better then my AE Rc10 4.2.

Boss777

iTrader: (130)

any one selling one? pm me

FoiVoS_

Guys which spring color is a step stiffer than the stock front one ?

jlavador

I bought all the springs, i believe orange is stock for the front, I'm using purple, I think blue is good too.

FoiVoS_

Yeah thanks for responding but my question is which one is the next step harder than the orange ( stock ) ?

jlavador

I believe they go in this order Green > White > Orange > Pink > Blue > Purple. softest to stiffest. I use pink on the back instead of white and purple on the front.

cjb

iTrader: (6)

Does anyone know if the 240Z body from Tamiya (51407) will fit on the D3? I'm worried the front end of the D3 might be too high with the motor being there.

jlavador

Heres the guts of my D3

FoiVoS_

Nice What belts are you using and what tooth is the rear pulley ?

jlavador

stock front belt, bando on the center and rear, and its all stock gearing just the alum versions.