John Pape

To mount the HB C hubs you need to use the HB top hats. There are 2 ways you can do it. The first way (the way Chris does it) is to cut the flange part off one of the top hats. You then put the steering arm in the castor block and put the bottom top hat (the one not trimmed) in from underneath the castor block and insert the screw. Then using the trimmed top hat insert it in the top and screw the balljoint in.

I do it slightly different in that i machine off the top of the steering hub so instead of the having the slight curve on the top its flat and insert a untrimmed top hat before i put the steering hub in.

KO GP setup was exactly the same as the Euros setup I posted, just with 1.4mm front and 1.2mm rear roll bars. Using the new versions.

Bryan D

Thanks for the information John. I am sure that most folk appreciate the help that you give on here.

Thanks Again

Island Losi

iTrader: (3)

x2

tim fry

iTrader: (1)

Hi all

When running the narrow worlds front arms and using a one way should I still use o rings in the drive cups as with them in it seems to bind a little and with them out the drive cup moves in and out?

Thanks

jarkko

Sleighty:
we have high tracktion on our inside track carpet and when we started training inside beginning of this month changing from those shorter front arm to standard was one of the first things to do. We have had to do other changes aswell to decrease steering.

JJC

@ John Pape.

Just wondering what driveshafts you and Chris are running in the front of your BD's?
Running a spool combined with the extra lock of the CGM steering mod I've been snapping the drive shaft joint pins under accleration exiting corners. I had heard these were a weak point so built mine up from new using pins cut from 1.5mm drill bit blanks (as suggested on this thread), but these still snapped. I guess the extra lock does put more strain on the pins.
Will try the standard pins now, but would like a more permanent fix.

Thanks

Sleighty

thanks alot

Island Losi

iTrader: (3)

somewhere in earlier post they talked about reducing the lock to prevent this. if u go over a particular angle u'll run the chance of failure. i may be wrong thought so check it out......also many people run TiR driveshafts as well.

John Pape

Currently running TiR in the front, but I have been playing with running Associated driveshafts and Rayspeed axles at the moment.
I know at the Japan nats they ran associated driveshafts due to the level of grip being high and the nature of the track the TiR ones kept breaking.

Standard front wishbones should be better in indoors by the way.

JJC

Thanks for that

Sleighty

Hi do you have any other tips for me?

Tried the car again today with standard wishbones, with a one way setup similar to the Olly J setup on the CML website. Car still traction rolled and simply handled badly, i tried a friends car with the 3mm chassis and his car felt much better. Car just feels very vague almost like you dont know what its going to do in the middle of a corner, whether it will grip, slide or traction roll.

Im sure if i put a stock motor in the car it would most likely handle great, but with modified it just doesnt like it.

any tips or a set up to try would be great, im running 5 cell 3.5 brushless with LRP Vtec27R tyres. What i cant understand is back when i ran foams, the car was brilliant and i never had a problem. I wouldnt have thought rubbers would give the car such a problem

Jochim_18

iTrader: (10)

Use a harder compound tires. Try 30's all the way around.

Sleighty

Wish i could, its control rubber so thats kinda out of the question

Martin Hofer

Have you tried using a spool?

This should make things much easier for you. Especially with a 3,5T indoors.

Sleighty

I havent yet, i was trying to avoid doing that firstly because i wanted to protect the driveshafts secondly because i heard that the car was good with a one way with rubbers. Spose i might have to try it.