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Old 10-01-2009, 01:37 AM
  #17521  
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke
They are a type of delrin. It's the same material that is used in the standard kit rear diff outdrives in the TC kit. They work great!
Thats good then. How do they hold up for wear?? as i like the feel of plastic diffs it gives almost a more gripped up smooth feeling and a positive is that you wear them you change them not like clips!! you break one you replace the diff!! but i had been running a slipper spool but couldn't get it tight enough because the plastic diffs give a tad when you load them!! but when you have a proper spool omg the brakes and pull out of the corner are so much better!!
But i find the steel outdrives sort of chatter a little and entry into the corner is a bit rough even when you don't have any chatter in cvd's.
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Old 10-01-2009, 01:51 AM
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Hey guys

the outdoors gas offroad season is coming to an end, time to race rubber on carpet again at the end of the month and put the Hara Cyclone back to winning condition after its last race early april '09. I've kind of lost track of the changes available to the Cyclone in the recent months. What are the recent "must have" that I need to order? My car is a Hara Ed, with pro-spec diff. No intention whatsoever to go to the TC

Thanks!

Paul
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Old 10-01-2009, 05:47 AM
  #17523  
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Originally Posted by masher
@AndysD8 I use a SMC 4000 35c pack wich is thinner than my SMC5000 packs, and that fits with no mods at all. The taller packs you just have to dremmel 1mm of the bottom off the mount..hope that helps.
That definately helps! A pack that will fit with no mods, plus it won't break the bank either!!
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Old 10-01-2009, 10:49 AM
  #17524  
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Originally Posted by decibels
Thats good then. How do they hold up for wear?? as i like the feel of plastic diffs it gives almost a more gripped up smooth feeling and a positive is that you wear them you change them not like clips!! you break one you replace the diff!! but i had been running a slipper spool but couldn't get it tight enough because the plastic diffs give a tad when you load them!! but when you have a proper spool omg the brakes and pull out of the corner are so much better!!
But i find the steel outdrives sort of chatter a little and entry into the corner is a bit rough even when you don't have any chatter in cvd's.
They Hold up extremely well when used as s diff outdrive, but they do seem to wear a little faster when used for a outdrive cup on a spool. They aren't as durable either (obviously). So you'll have to make a judgment call. Everytime I've used them, my car had a little more steering throughout the corner. I'm thinking because it's lighter, there isn't as much gyroscopic effect allowing the front to roll a little quicker/more. I'm not 100% on this though.

Your comment about chatter has me thinking though. Typically when we use the steel outdrives, we use the MIP CVD's up front. These have a little more sloop right around where it fits into the bearings so it gives the driveshafts a little room to move around. It seems to reduce the amount of chatter that occurs when the car is driving on the track (but not really when it's up in the air). With the POM outdrive cups, they have a little more slop in their joints in comparison to steel counterparts. So to have juuuuust the right amount of overall slop, we like to use the ver 2 universals that come in the TC kit.

I use the POM outdrive and ver 2 universal combo if I want the best performance. I use the MIP CVD and steel outdrive combo for better durability (usually in mod). I have not tried the new DCJ driveshafts though. When I get them, I will be using steel outdrives though.

-Korey
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Old 10-01-2009, 02:24 PM
  #17525  
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Hey guys thanks for the info on the uprights. I'll try the graphite ones and see how they hold up.
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Old 10-01-2009, 02:40 PM
  #17526  
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Anyone hunting DCJ's can snag some at AMainHobbies right now.

I will have a set for my next race (Rubber/Carpet) and will post some information.
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Old 10-02-2009, 06:22 AM
  #17527  
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke
They Hold up extremely well when used as s diff outdrive, but they do seem to wear a little faster when used for a outdrive cup on a spool. They aren't as durable either (obviously). So you'll have to make a judgment call. Everytime I've used them, my car had a little more steering throughout the corner. I'm thinking because it's lighter, there isn't as much gyroscopic effect allowing the front to roll a little quicker/more. I'm not 100% on this though.

Your comment about chatter has me thinking though. Typically when we use the steel outdrives, we use the MIP CVD's up front. These have a little more sloop right around where it fits into the bearings so it gives the driveshafts a little room to move around. It seems to reduce the amount of chatter that occurs when the car is driving on the track (but not really when it's up in the air). With the POM outdrive cups, they have a little more slop in their joints in comparison to steel counterparts. So to have juuuuust the right amount of overall slop, we like to use the ver 2 universals that come in the TC kit.

I use the POM outdrive and ver 2 universal combo if I want the best performance. I use the MIP CVD and steel outdrive combo for better durability (usually in mod). I have not tried the new DCJ driveshafts though. When I get them, I will be using steel outdrives though.

-Korey
I believe that when setting up a car there is traits between things being stiff and things having give or being flexy!! but it is hard to find the right combo of flex in all components. Now i personally don't like to much flex in the decks. but i like soft arms and plastic outdrives. this allows more corner speed and direct feel from the stiffer decks and the softer drive train allows a little more on and off power grip as there is a touch of give under hard loads. but i do like flex in the deck side to side but not front to back as i go for the 2.5mm rear deck cut and the 3mm front deck cut right up to the steering mount. this is giving me a good balance and i bring in more steering by dropping the roll centres as this lets the car really use the tyres! but the right goop combo is also very important but that is my thoughts, just something to think about but my car is one of the fastest cyclones in aus at the moment. And feels better than all my other cars!!
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Old 10-02-2009, 06:25 AM
  #17528  
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Originally Posted by Scott B
Red 22.4lbs
Yellow 21.7lbs
White 20.3
Gold 19lbs
Pink 18lbs
Silver 16.9lbs
Blue 15.3lbs
Thanks a lot ....
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Old 10-02-2009, 06:30 AM
  #17529  
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just something to think about but my car is one of the fastest cyclones in aus at the moment. And feels better than all my other cars!![/QUOTE]

Hey deci
What class do you race in Australia & whats your home track called.
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Old 10-02-2009, 09:36 AM
  #17530  
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hi guys,

I m currently building my cyclone TC and i have a little problem.

The center shaft with 2 pulley, if i push de pulleys to the center i have a big play left and right.

And if i push the pulleys to the bearing, the belt can touch the motor mount.

What i need to do?

Thanks
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Old 10-02-2009, 09:50 AM
  #17531  
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Originally Posted by Xchange
hi guys,

I m currently building my cyclone TC and i have a little problem.

The center shaft with 2 pulley, if i push de pulleys to the center i have a big play left and right.

And if i push the pulleys to the bearing, the belt can touch the motor mount.

What i need to do?

Thanks
You need to shim the left pulley: a few shims (4mm ID) between the left pulley and the bearing in order to provide enough clearance for the belt to pass by the motor mount.
Once you set screw the left pulley and spur gear down, the final adjustment for side-to-side play is done using the right pulley. Set screw that pulley down so that you have just a tick of play.
Also, be sure your set screws are hitting the flatspots of the shaft and put some blue threadlock on them.
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Old 10-02-2009, 07:35 PM
  #17532  
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke
I have not tried the new DCJ driveshafts though. When I get them, I will be using steel outdrives though.

-Korey
Hi Korey, what are the reasons for using the steel spool outdrives with DCJ?

How many runs can you get out of the POM spool outdrives with 13.5T?

Thanks.
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Old 10-02-2009, 10:56 PM
  #17533  
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Mainly just for durability. I figure I should stay on the safe side then try some more go fast stuff. Plus I have Hiro voice in my head from when he freaked out at the Reedy race. "NO!!!!! You must run steel cups!!! You can't break!!!" promptly after I hit a board and broke a POM outdrive on my spool haha. It was pretty hilarious.

If you don't break them and keep them clean, they last a good while.

-Korey
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Old 10-03-2009, 10:24 AM
  #17534  
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke
If you don't break them and keep them clean, they last a good while.

-Korey
Don't most parts last a good while if you don't break them? j/k

I've never broken a POM outdrive, but I have experienced wear that turns into large amounts of slop. I can't help but think that some of that wear is caused by the binding and chatter created while at full lock. Since the DCJ's eliminate most of the chatter, now the POM's should hold up even longer.

I only run 13.5/17.5 classes. At Nexus Racing where I race, we will be focusing more on 17.5 this winter. I'll be running DCJ's & POM's at the next race. If I get time I will swap to the steel outdrives to see if I notice any differences between steel and POM outdrives when used with the DCJ's. If I ran Mod it would be steel outdrives only for reasons Korey sighted, DURABILITY.
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Old 10-03-2009, 10:59 AM
  #17535  
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