Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
Trinity duo3.5 new motor >

Trinity duo3.5 new motor

Community
Wiki Posts
Search

Trinity duo3.5 new motor

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-12-2012, 04:45 AM
  #451  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (7)
 
wollow86's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Hobart
Posts: 707
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by cwoods34
When I ran boosted 17.5, I'd use a D3 with a 12.3 broad power rotor. The 12.5 hi-torque (Magzilla) will typically run hotter and doesn't like the high RPM of boosting... that's why it's good in blinky. The smaller/less powerful rotors run cooler and wind up faster. I'd go with the standard D3.5 from EA.... hope this helps!
Thanks for your reply, it seems hard to get info on what works with boost in 17.5, not many places left running it.

Is the 12.3 the standard rotor in the D3? I never changed mine, just ran the stock D3...

One last question, with the D3.5, would it be better to run the timing at 0 rather then the first notch in + like I did on my d3? Or possibly even retarding the timing on the end bell and adding it back in in the esc?
wollow86 is offline  
Old 11-12-2012, 05:11 AM
  #452  
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
 
cwoods34's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Indy-freakin'-ana
Posts: 1,156
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by wollow86
Thanks for your reply, it seems hard to get info on what works with boost in 17.5, not many places left running it.

Is the 12.3 the standard rotor in the D3? I never changed mine, just ran the stock D3...

One last question, with the D3.5, would it be better to run the timing at 0 rather then the first notch in + like I did on my d3? Or possibly even retarding the timing on the end bell and adding it back in in the esc?
The stock rotor should be purple I believe, but I've got them with pink before. Both should work fine. I ran my D3 at the first + timing mark past "0" then boosted the crap out of it with a Tekin..... usually 6.0-7.0 FDR.
cwoods34 is offline  
Old 11-12-2012, 08:49 AM
  #453  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (23)
 
SS LS1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Michigan
Posts: 360
Trader Rating: 23 (100%+)
Questions??

Originally Posted by outlandr91
I could use some gearing/timing suggestions for a blinky 21.5 on a 100x36 carpet track.
Originally Posted by bvoltz
Around 4.0, with a 12.3 general rotor / full timing....
So how much FDR change would you recommend with a 12.5mm HT rotor in the same 21.5 motor? Still use full timing or something less?
SS LS1 is offline  
Old 11-12-2012, 09:05 AM
  #454  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
 
AdrianM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Saint Petersburg, FL
Posts: 5,946
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by I)arkness
was using the 17.5 yesterday and went to put on full timing on the end bell and it didn't quite get there, stopped i think at around 20 degrees? any info on this or should i pull the thing apart and see why.....
0 timing is 30 deg on the D3.5. If you were running 20 degrees on the endbell you were at the max 50 deg of timing.
AdrianM is offline  
Old 11-12-2012, 02:47 PM
  #455  
Tech Master
iTrader: (7)
 
I)arkness's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Victoria,Aus
Posts: 1,129
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by AdrianM
0 timing is 30 deg on the D3.5. If you were running 20 degrees on the endbell you were at the max 50 deg of timing.

oh really didnt know that, thanks for the info

but why do they bother having it go up to 30 on the endbell markings?
I)arkness is offline  
Old 11-12-2012, 03:17 PM
  #456  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
 
NolanP's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Westmont
Posts: 2,433
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by I)arkness
oh really didnt know that, thanks for the info

but why do they bother having it go up to 30 on the endbell markings?
Probably for the same reason your speedo goes to 160-200mph.
NolanP is offline  
Old 11-12-2012, 03:20 PM
  #457  
Tech Master
iTrader: (7)
 
I)arkness's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Victoria,Aus
Posts: 1,129
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by NolanP
Probably for the same reason your speedo goes to 160-200mph.
ah touché
I)arkness is offline  
Old 11-12-2012, 04:56 PM
  #458  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (44)
 
bvoltz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Bedtime with Teddi
Posts: 3,635
Trader Rating: 44 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by I)arkness
oh really didnt know that, thanks for the info

but why do they bother having it go up to 30 on the endbell markings?
Because it was a design issue with the pad printing on the end bell....
bvoltz is offline  
Old 11-12-2012, 04:56 PM
  #459  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
 
AdrianM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Saint Petersburg, FL
Posts: 5,946
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by I)arkness
oh really didnt know that, thanks for the info

but why do they bother having it go up to 30 on the endbell markings?
I'm not sure. Maybe its brilliant marketing on Trinity's part. Every few weeks someone asks this and the D3.5 thread springs back to like...lol!
AdrianM is offline  
Old 11-12-2012, 05:18 PM
  #460  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 302
Default

Originally Posted by syndr0me
We found out at IIC that earlier versions of the Tekin ESC have issues with the voltage being used in the sensor board of the d3.5. Contact Tekin and see what they can do for you. I believe they were replacing ESC's for people at the race that had the older version.
When one refers to "older" tekins, does one refer to older firmware than v2.23?

Are you saying that ones needs to have the Gen 2 Tekin to work with a D3.5?

Thanks!
mhavlena is offline  
Old 11-12-2012, 05:27 PM
  #461  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (280)
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Central Wisconsin USA
Posts: 5,034
Trader Rating: 280 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by mhavlena
When one refers to "older" tekins, does one refer to older firmware than v2.23?

Are you saying that ones needs to have the Gen 2 Tekin to work with a D3.5?

Thanks!
I've also heard that replacing the sensor board on the D3.5 with one from a D3 will work with the older Tekins too. Worth a try if you have one on hand.
Andy Koback is offline  
Old 11-12-2012, 05:36 PM
  #462  
Team Tekin
iTrader: (6)
 
Randy_Pike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Norcal
Posts: 9,912
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by syndr0me
We found out at IIC that earlier versions of the Tekin ESC have issues with the voltage being used in the sensor board of the d3.5. Contact Tekin and see what they can do for you. I believe they were replacing ESC's for people at the race that had the older version.
Some of this is true. If you have an esc that is only providing 3.5v with a properly charged receiver pack OR a properly functioning booster you have a failure in the sensor port.

It has nothing to do with the age of it.

It occurs when a voltage spike back feeds through the system, blows a component and increases the resistance of the circuit. This is where the voltage drop occurs. We only see this failure on 1s setups.
Randy_Pike is offline  
Old 11-12-2012, 05:39 PM
  #463  
Moderator
iTrader: (9)
 
Clegg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Outside doing things in places... Denver, CO
Posts: 4,609
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

What causes the voltage spike in most cases? Reason I ask is if everything in the car is running at ~ 4.2v (for 1S) setup, and 6v if there is a booster/pack feeing the ESC via the Rx connection. Just curious what is considered a spike and how to avoid that with my RS's ?
Clegg is offline  
Old 11-12-2012, 07:57 PM
  #464  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (49)
 
andrewdoherty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ★Wylie, TX★
Posts: 3,815
Trader Rating: 49 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Randy_Pike
Some of this is true. If you have an esc that is only providing 3.5v with a properly charged receiver pack OR a properly functioning booster you have a failure in the sensor port.

It has nothing to do with the age of it.

It occurs when a voltage spike back feeds through the system, blows a component and increases the resistance of the circuit. This is where the voltage drop occurs. We only see this failure on 1s setups.
Is there a particular pin out we can check the voltage at on the sensor portion of the esc to see if we are getting proper voltage?
andrewdoherty is offline  
Old 11-12-2012, 08:02 PM
  #465  
Tech Master
iTrader: (19)
 
Joe Kimble's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 1,442
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Clegg
What causes the voltage spike in most cases? Reason I ask is if everything in the car is running at ~ 4.2v (for 1S) setup, and 6v if there is a booster/pack feeing the ESC via the Rx connection. Just curious what is considered a spike and how to avoid that with my RS's ?

I'm not a specialist but I heard somewhere that braking causes a sudden increase in voltage sent back to the battery. So would imagine using a low braking profile? Just supposing really
Joe Kimble is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.