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Old 11-12-2012, 05:45 AM   #451
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When I ran boosted 17.5, I'd use a D3 with a 12.3 broad power rotor. The 12.5 hi-torque (Magzilla) will typically run hotter and doesn't like the high RPM of boosting... that's why it's good in blinky. The smaller/less powerful rotors run cooler and wind up faster. I'd go with the standard D3.5 from EA.... hope this helps!
Thanks for your reply, it seems hard to get info on what works with boost in 17.5, not many places left running it.

Is the 12.3 the standard rotor in the D3? I never changed mine, just ran the stock D3...

One last question, with the D3.5, would it be better to run the timing at 0 rather then the first notch in + like I did on my d3? Or possibly even retarding the timing on the end bell and adding it back in in the esc?
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Old 11-12-2012, 06:11 AM   #452
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Thanks for your reply, it seems hard to get info on what works with boost in 17.5, not many places left running it.

Is the 12.3 the standard rotor in the D3? I never changed mine, just ran the stock D3...

One last question, with the D3.5, would it be better to run the timing at 0 rather then the first notch in + like I did on my d3? Or possibly even retarding the timing on the end bell and adding it back in in the esc?
The stock rotor should be purple I believe, but I've got them with pink before. Both should work fine. I ran my D3 at the first + timing mark past "0" then boosted the crap out of it with a Tekin..... usually 6.0-7.0 FDR.
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Old 11-12-2012, 09:49 AM   #453
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I could use some gearing/timing suggestions for a blinky 21.5 on a 100x36 carpet track.
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Around 4.0, with a 12.3 general rotor / full timing....
So how much FDR change would you recommend with a 12.5mm HT rotor in the same 21.5 motor? Still use full timing or something less?
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Old 11-12-2012, 10:05 AM   #454
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was using the 17.5 yesterday and went to put on full timing on the end bell and it didn't quite get there, stopped i think at around 20 degrees? any info on this or should i pull the thing apart and see why.....
0 timing is 30 deg on the D3.5. If you were running 20 degrees on the endbell you were at the max 50 deg of timing.
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Old 11-12-2012, 03:47 PM   #455
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0 timing is 30 deg on the D3.5. If you were running 20 degrees on the endbell you were at the max 50 deg of timing.

oh really didnt know that, thanks for the info

but why do they bother having it go up to 30 on the endbell markings?
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Old 11-12-2012, 04:17 PM   #456
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oh really didnt know that, thanks for the info

but why do they bother having it go up to 30 on the endbell markings?
Probably for the same reason your speedo goes to 160-200mph.
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Old 11-12-2012, 04:20 PM   #457
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Probably for the same reason your speedo goes to 160-200mph.
ah touché
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Old 11-12-2012, 05:56 PM   #458
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oh really didnt know that, thanks for the info

but why do they bother having it go up to 30 on the endbell markings?
Because it was a design issue with the pad printing on the end bell....
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Old 11-12-2012, 05:56 PM   #459
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oh really didnt know that, thanks for the info

but why do they bother having it go up to 30 on the endbell markings?
I'm not sure. Maybe its brilliant marketing on Trinity's part. Every few weeks someone asks this and the D3.5 thread springs back to like...lol!
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Old 11-12-2012, 06:18 PM   #460
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We found out at IIC that earlier versions of the Tekin ESC have issues with the voltage being used in the sensor board of the d3.5. Contact Tekin and see what they can do for you. I believe they were replacing ESC's for people at the race that had the older version.
When one refers to "older" tekins, does one refer to older firmware than v2.23?

Are you saying that ones needs to have the Gen 2 Tekin to work with a D3.5?

Thanks!
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Old 11-12-2012, 06:27 PM   #461
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When one refers to "older" tekins, does one refer to older firmware than v2.23?

Are you saying that ones needs to have the Gen 2 Tekin to work with a D3.5?

Thanks!
I've also heard that replacing the sensor board on the D3.5 with one from a D3 will work with the older Tekins too. Worth a try if you have one on hand.
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Old 11-12-2012, 06:36 PM   #462
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Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
We found out at IIC that earlier versions of the Tekin ESC have issues with the voltage being used in the sensor board of the d3.5. Contact Tekin and see what they can do for you. I believe they were replacing ESC's for people at the race that had the older version.
Some of this is true. If you have an esc that is only providing 3.5v with a properly charged receiver pack OR a properly functioning booster you have a failure in the sensor port.

It has nothing to do with the age of it.

It occurs when a voltage spike back feeds through the system, blows a component and increases the resistance of the circuit. This is where the voltage drop occurs. We only see this failure on 1s setups.
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Old 11-12-2012, 06:39 PM   #463
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What causes the voltage spike in most cases? Reason I ask is if everything in the car is running at ~ 4.2v (for 1S) setup, and 6v if there is a booster/pack feeing the ESC via the Rx connection. Just curious what is considered a spike and how to avoid that with my RS's ?
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Old 11-12-2012, 08:57 PM   #464
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
Some of this is true. If you have an esc that is only providing 3.5v with a properly charged receiver pack OR a properly functioning booster you have a failure in the sensor port.

It has nothing to do with the age of it.

It occurs when a voltage spike back feeds through the system, blows a component and increases the resistance of the circuit. This is where the voltage drop occurs. We only see this failure on 1s setups.
Is there a particular pin out we can check the voltage at on the sensor portion of the esc to see if we are getting proper voltage?
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Old 11-12-2012, 09:02 PM   #465
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What causes the voltage spike in most cases? Reason I ask is if everything in the car is running at ~ 4.2v (for 1S) setup, and 6v if there is a booster/pack feeing the ESC via the Rx connection. Just curious what is considered a spike and how to avoid that with my RS's ?

I'm not a specialist but I heard somewhere that braking causes a sudden increase in voltage sent back to the battery. So would imagine using a low braking profile? Just supposing really
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