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Old 09-16-2012, 09:16 PM   #376
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Lol. Cause I'm gonna support my local motor scientist. I hear he's a whiz. See below. It will take a lot for me to stop running Jim's motors .
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Old 09-16-2012, 09:28 PM   #377
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Ea on your website you state the you set the timing on the 17.5s to the optimum timing, is that or each individual motor on your dyno? Also my home track has less than a 100 ft straight, but I'll also be running at a track with a 220 foot straight, would you reccomend the 12.3 or 12.5 high torque?
I would like to know this too, I was just setting the timing to maximum and playing with the FDR.
The 12.5 Rotor has been recomended by everyone so far from what I can see
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Old 09-16-2012, 09:41 PM   #378
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I would like to know this too, I was just setting the timing to maximum and playing with the FDR.
The 12.5 Rotor has been recomended by everyone so far from what I can see
Same here, seems to work well for me, but a dyno would be pretty cool. I'm deciding between an ea, fantom or 5% for a new 17.5 to replace my original d3.5.
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Old 09-16-2012, 09:53 PM   #379
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Same here, seems to work well for me, but a dyno would be pretty cool. I'm deciding between an ea, fantom or 5% for a new 17.5 to replace my original d3.5.
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Old 09-16-2012, 09:54 PM   #380
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Originally Posted by B00t13g View Post
Ea on your website you state the you set the timing on the 17.5s to the optimum timing, is that or each individual motor on your dyno? Also my home track has less than a 100 ft straight, but I'll also be running at a track with a 220 foot straight, would you reccomend the 12.3 or 12.5 high torque?
Each batch of motor and each motor has a little bit different tolerance in the sensor board for timing and some motors like a little more timing and some like a little more. Usually its the same for each batch (one batch may like 15 and one batch may like 20, etc). I play around with them on the dyno to find what makes the best power, RPM and still maintain a decent amp draw and efficiency.

Usually for Blinky TC the stock or a 12.3 or 12.5 high torque rotor. For the 220ft track Id go with stock or 12.3 high torque. Smaller track the 12.5 high torque.

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Old 09-16-2012, 09:57 PM   #381
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Originally Posted by B00t13g View Post
Same here, seems to work well for me, but a dyno would be pretty cool. I'm deciding between an ea, fantom or 5% for a new 17.5 to replace my original d3.5.
Any of those will work. I know that the 5% doesnt come as a complete motor. Only a stator or a rotor. Not complete.

Also good luck getting any of those other guys to answer any questions for you as well.

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Old 09-16-2012, 10:55 PM   #382
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I've read almost this entire thread, a few reported a problem that I'm having with a new, out of the box, motor i just received direct from Trinity from a new batch received a few weeks ago.

When the car goes into or out of a turn the car will stutor or stop randomly. I believe this is being caused by the sensor board not giving a signal back to the ESC for a short period of time. I've replaced sensor wires, sensor board, re-soldered wires, adjusted timing from 10 to 25deg. Running 17.5 TC blinky. Nothing made a difference. I put my Thunder Power back in with the same sensor wire and it works perfect. There's definitely something wrong with this motor.

Has anyone had this issue and found a solution?

I'm going to look at the sensor board touching the inner plastic ring the wire is wrapped around. This might be bending the board or shorting a sensor board part to the wire, not sure.
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Old 09-16-2012, 10:57 PM   #383
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Originally Posted by EAMotorsports View Post
Any of those will work. I know that the 5% doesnt come as a complete motor. Only a stator or a rotor. Not complete.

Also good luck getting any of those other guys to answer any questions for you as well.

EA
You have my business. Last question, if I order the motor with the 12.5 high torque, can you dyno it with that rotor and set timing? As I will run 99.9% of the time at the smaller track as its 20 minutes away opposed to 4 hours.
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Old 09-16-2012, 11:09 PM   #384
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Originally Posted by bkspeedo View Post
I've read almost this entire thread, a few reported a problem that I'm having with a new, out of the box, motor i just received direct from Trinity from a new batch received a few weeks ago.

When the car goes into or out of a turn the car will stutor or stop randomly. I believe this is being caused by the sensor board not giving a signal back to the ESC for a short period of time. I've replaced sensor wires, sensor board, re-soldered wires, adjusted timing from 10 to 25deg. Running 17.5 TC blinky. Nothing made a difference. I put my Thunder Power back in with the same sensor wire and it works perfect. There's definitely something wrong with this motor.

Has anyone had this issue and found a solution?

I'm going to look at the sensor board touching the inner plastic ring the wire is wrapped around. This might be bending the board or shorting a sensor board part to the wire, not sure.
When the motor is out of car (not connected), you spin the rotor, does it feel gummy? Not turn over like your TP?
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Old 09-17-2012, 05:40 AM   #385
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkspeedo View Post
I've read almost this entire thread, a few reported a problem that I'm having with a new, out of the box, motor i just received direct from Trinity from a new batch received a few weeks ago.

When the car goes into or out of a turn the car will stutor or stop randomly. I believe this is being caused by the sensor board not giving a signal back to the ESC for a short period of time. I've replaced sensor wires, sensor board, re-soldered wires, adjusted timing from 10 to 25deg. Running 17.5 TC blinky. Nothing made a difference. I put my Thunder Power back in with the same sensor wire and it works perfect. There's definitely something wrong with this motor.

Has anyone had this issue and found a solution?

I'm going to look at the sensor board touching the inner plastic ring the wire is wrapped around. This might be bending the board or shorting a sensor board part to the wire, not sure.
Take the motor apart and make sure there isnt too much play in the rotor and it touching the sensor board sensors at times. Ive seen that cause an intermittent short and cause the issue you describe. If its touching just add a ship at the endbell end.

Quote:
Originally Posted by B00t13g View Post
You have my business. Last question, if I order the motor with the 12.5 high torque, can you dyno it with that rotor and set timing? As I will run 99.9% of the time at the smaller track as its 20 minutes away opposed to 4 hours.
Yes sir I can but I am out of the 1112 rotors at the moment. I have them on backorder but I have not gotten a delivery date. If you want a motor now with regular rotor I'll send you the high torque when available for the upgrade price instead of the regular price.

Thanks
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Old 09-17-2012, 06:12 AM   #386
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Originally Posted by B00t13g View Post
You have my business. Last question, if I order the motor with the 12.5 high torque, can you dyno it with that rotor and set timing? As I will run 99.9% of the time at the smaller track as its 20 minutes away opposed to 4 hours.
In case it can't get dyno'd with the HT rotor, I'd drop around 2 notches of timing then add gearing accordingly.

When I switched to the HT rotor in my Revtech (from stock), I went from max timing and a 4.0 FDR to the 2nd timing notch and a 3.7ish. This gave me the same temps and roughly the same battery runtime. Hope that helps!
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Old 09-17-2012, 06:16 AM   #387
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When the motor is out of car (not connected), you spin the rotor, does it feel gummy? Not turn over like your TP?
Nope, it feels perfect when you free spin it.

Quote:
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Take the motor apart and make sure there isnt too much play in the rotor and it touching the sensor board sensors at times. Ive seen that cause an intermittent short and cause the issue you describe. If its touching just add a ship at the endbell end.
I've done this. I shimmed the rotor so it was centered in the stator (about 1 mm from the sensor board) and it still did it. In fact i thought maybe i was too far away from the sensor board so i shimmed it with about a .5mm gap, still no good.
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Old 09-17-2012, 06:17 AM   #388
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Anyone know the screw pitch and length of the end bell timing ring flat heads. My motor was so fast it came out!
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Old 09-17-2012, 06:47 AM   #389
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Anyone know the screw pitch and length of the end bell timing ring flat heads. My motor was so fast it came out!
I think they are a 2mm screw but not positive. I can bring you one to IIC if you need another. Those screws are garbage. Most are rounded off from the factory. Some take a 1.5mm some take a 1/16th.

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Old 09-17-2012, 07:08 AM   #390
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Hi,

I wasn't very sure, but to increase timing, do I turn the endbell clockwise or anti-clockwise ?

Reference to the top screw, at zero timing, the screw is at "B" pole. So, at "+" timing, is the screw supposed to be at "A" pole or "C" pole ?

Please advise.
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