Second this idea.
If the fuse is bad inside you can just replace it then be back on the road,
Stephen <><

Yea checked the fuses they were fine.

http://webpages.charter.net/xtcgti/dyno.jpg

I have had my APS for about 3 weeks and the RPM sensor already stopped working :cry: I tryed to log onto the web site with no luck. are they around ??? Need some warranty work done

Howard, Mine acts up every once in a while it doesn't measure the RPM correctly. I just move the motor around on the mount and it works again.

nope worse then that.. need to send it in.. as much as these cost shouldnt have to jiggle it around to make it work. Thats just shoddie workmanship :mad:

That sucks! :flaming: :mad: :flaming: :mad: :flaming: :mad:

Man I hope I don't have to send mine in :( :( :( :(

does anyone know what the max amp draw is for the dyno, will it go over 10 amps like a gfx.

20 amps

very true. F the jiggle

I had to send my in. They have received it and have fixed it and are pretty quick in turn around. they are in Canada. Magma is the distributor. I fried my CPU inside and it was just out side of the warrentee period and they repair was $22.00 so not bad.
I have had the same problem with the PRM Sensor as well but I have gotten it to work by makign sure no light is reflecting on the sensor. That also helps.
I like the dyno charge alot.
Stephen <><

Here is the website

www.magmarc.com
Hope this helps.
As long as you are with in the warrentee period you won't be charged anything.
The customer service has been good for me.
You can also call them and they might help with something simple.
Stephen <><

I sent mine in for service and they were very prompt to my e-mails. Total turn around time was about ten days. So I bought a second charger. :)

aps
 

can you use this charger with a 12v gel cell?kitty

charging
 

does anyone now why the aps won't charge off a car battery? :flaming: :flaming: :flaming:

Any sealed lead acid or car battery will work, as long as it supplies at least 12V or so...

I've been using old UPS batteries (30 lbs each, but last a whole race weekend) I got from work after they replaced them. They're old and not in peak condition, but they still last enough for me...

Otherwise, car battery is fine too.. why is it not charging? Does it say Power Supply Low, or does it just not work at all? It should turn on even off of the battery pack you connect it to, enough to give you a message of sorts.

BTW, what's the latest BIOS they on? I have 1.000c.. any news on future upgrades?

Does anyone else find that once in a while that my RPM count doubles when testing a motor?

It's a wicked charger nonetheless.. I bought one a few months ago, and I just won one at a race prize draw! I can now charge and break in and run motors at the same time, and I'm sure my SLA batteries will keep them running...

Tried my Duratrax Intellipeak power supply (the wall-wart) and it didn't do so well.. had enough voltage, but false peaked on my packs waaaaay before they were even warm.. ohwell..