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U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2

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U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2

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Old 08-13-2012, 07:38 AM
  #1546  
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Originally Posted by Deja Vu
100 grams means an additional 14 1/4 oz weights. On my Xray, I have room for 4 weights on the chassis and I was able to triple stack the rear to get 8 on the chassis. The rest I have to add on top of the battery. On my daughter's Losi, I had to add 32 1/4 oz weights to get her up to spec!
I'm curious if you are using relatively light batteries and/or running without driver figures? That's a lot of weight to have to add.
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Old 08-13-2012, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Overtorqued
... What I'm wondering is how the VTA spec'ed cars, especially the tires, do on regular 'ole asphalt? How long will the tires last? How well do they handle?

I'm thinking about putting a car together to the VTA spec to test it out. If it looks to work well, I am considering an attempt to try to get others in the area involved and have some races. But if the tires or something else in the rule set doesn't work well for asphalt, it would be nice to know ahead of time.
The VTA tires perform great on regular 'ole asphalt. Granted they will last twice as long on a carpet track versus asphalt. We just had a huge on-road race in Austin, TX this last Sunday. Our VTA cars ran on a parking lot surface. The tires I had on my car were used tires that have previously been run on asphalt over a month ago. They worked perfectly in last weekend's race. HPI's Vintage Racing Tires, #4793 and #4797, were originally designed for outdoor (i.e. asphalt) Nitro On-Road Racing. These tires were adopted into the USVTA rules primarily for their realistic looks and to help make an "equal playing field competition with less traction".
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Old 08-13-2012, 08:35 AM
  #1548  
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Originally Posted by Deja Vu
No, I do understand how the recognized class of VTA was formed and established. I only brought it up since it seems ROAR was lagging behind what the community as a whole recognizes as the class rules.

But, since we are on this topic...why was the weight increase established? 100 grams means an additional 14 1/4 oz weights. On my Xray, I have room for 4 weights on the chassis and I was able to triple stack the rear to get 8 on the chassis. The rest I have to add on top of the battery. On my daughter's Losi, I had to add 32 1/4 oz weights to get her up to spec!

No biggie really, I truly enjoy this class the way it is. But, I would be interested in knowing why we are running 1550 grams versus 1450 grams. And again, we should petition ROAR to update the rules equal to what is recognized in the VTA community.

Thanks
The weight is what equalizes the cars so that older tub chassis designs like a TC3/4 or TA05 can compete at the same level as newer carbon fiber designs. Extra weight adds traction and makes the cars easier to drive for newcomers, allowing them to be more competitive. It also allows the cars to handle better and maintain momentum in the turns. But depending on track layout and driving style, a light car will have the advantage in acceleration out of the corners. The weight negates those advantages. So if you want to spend $500+ on a chassis that is designed to weigh 1380 grams to race VTA, go for it. The hardest part will be figuring out where to put all the weight. But if your budget is more restrained, you can pick up an old TC3 for about $75 and with a few simple chassis mods, have a top notch competitive car that you won't have to add much weight to if any at all.
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Old 08-13-2012, 08:52 AM
  #1549  
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Ok ordering a Sakura Zero S for this class.

Question is, is this kit already 200mm wide or do I need to something to widen the wheels out? If so what?
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Old 08-13-2012, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Ironwolf1974
Ok ordering a Sakura Zero S for this class.

Question is, is this kit already 200mm wide or do I need to something to widen the wheels out? If so what?
that car is a 190mm - you don't need to worry about widen it or anything...the offset in the VTA wheels takes care of widen the car to fit bodies
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Old 08-13-2012, 09:10 AM
  #1551  
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Originally Posted by beemerfan
The weight is what equalizes the cars so that older tub chassis designs like a TC3/4 or TA05 can compete at the same level as newer carbon fiber designs.
I'm not questioning the weight requirements...my original posting on this topic was suggesting that ROAR get their published rules up to speed with the rest of us. I am content with the USVTA rules as they are, but since it was brought up, Iam curious why the weight requirement was increased 100 grams 2 years ago. Also, I am a HUGE fan of the TC3...but in this case, the chassis in question is an obsolete, out of production Losi JRXS. No biggie, but this car does require a lot of added weight to be legal.

Slashdriver...yep, this is with the driver figure but she is using a very light battery. The JRX is pretty finicky with what batteries will fit and what doesn't. I found an old 2200 mah battery that fits and it is pretty light. My Xray on the other hand has a very heavy battery, an Enerland 5000 mah, 25C brick.
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Old 08-13-2012, 09:59 AM
  #1552  
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Originally Posted by beemerfan
The weight is what equalizes the cars so that older tub chassis designs like a TC3/4 or TA05 can compete at the same level as newer carbon fiber designs. Extra weight adds traction and makes the cars easier to drive for newcomers, allowing them to be more competitive. It also allows the cars to handle better and maintain momentum in the turns. But depending on track layout and driving style, a light car will have the advantage in acceleration out of the corners. The weight negates those advantages. So if you want to spend $500+ on a chassis that is designed to weigh 1380 grams to race VTA, go for it. The hardest part will be figuring out where to put all the weight. But if your budget is more restrained, you can pick up an old TC3 for about $75 and with a few simple chassis mods, have a top notch competitive car that you won't have to add much weight to if any at all.
very good point...my TC3 TC5 are both overweight...w/o any extra weights...my TC6 uses very little to make 1550....but I normally run a HPI driver with the full tray...as well as alot of sho-goo in my bodies...as well as fans Reedy Wolfpack 5000 lipos ect...
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Old 08-13-2012, 10:17 AM
  #1553  
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Maybe some clarification is needed here. The 1550 gram weight minimum is the TOTAL weight of the car, not just the chassis, in race ready condition. Meaning when weighing your car it has, speedo, motor, servo, wheels and tires, battery, driver figure, and a nicely painted body w/ clips, all installed as if you were going to race it.

P.S. I forgot radio receiver, wiring and fan (if used).

Last edited by trytowin; 08-13-2012 at 10:34 AM. Reason: added info
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Old 08-13-2012, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by DARKSIDE
very good point...my TC3 TC5 are both overweight...w/o any extra weights...my TC6 uses very little to make 1550....but I normally run a HPI driver with the full tray...as well as alot of sho-goo in my bodies...as well as fans Reedy Wolfpack 5000 lipos ect...
When I raced my Xray T3 VTA this weekend it weighed 1622 grams! But some of that could be from the 30 gram on-board camera I installed to film the VTA races from inside my car. I will have those videos posted on YouTube very soon.
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Old 08-13-2012, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by wwddww34
The VTA tires perform great on regular 'ole asphalt. Granted they will last twice as long on a carpet track versus asphalt. We just had a huge on-road race in Austin, TX this last Sunday. Our VTA cars ran on a parking lot surface. The tires I had on my car were used tires that have previously been run on asphalt over a month ago. They worked perfectly in last weekend's race. HPI's Vintage Racing Tires, #4793 and #4797, were originally designed for outdoor (i.e. asphalt) Nitro On-Road Racing. These tires were adopted into the USVTA rules primarily for their realistic looks and to help make an "equal playing field competition with less traction".
Awesome, thank you. When I get some extra cash I think I'll find a used chassis and try out a set to see how they last. I don't want to have people buying new tires all the time.
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Old 08-13-2012, 11:54 AM
  #1556  
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Take a look at the 1st ever "driver's seat" experience of VTA racing at Mike's Hobby Shop: http://youtu.be/xMx57E80Vx8

I apologize for the camera getting jolted around every time my car collided with another VTA or a wall. I have to come up with a sturdier mount for the camera.
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Old 08-13-2012, 12:07 PM
  #1557  
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Way cool vid !!
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Old 08-13-2012, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by wwddww34
Take a look at the 1st ever "driver's seat" experience of VTA racing at Mike's Hobby Shop: http://youtu.be/xMx57E80Vx8

I apologize for the camera getting jolted around every time my car collided with another VTA or a wall. I have to come up with a sturdier mount for the camera.
I wanna see that camera in a 1/10 sedan race!!! that would be nuts to watch!!
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Old 08-13-2012, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by wwddww34
Take a look at the 1st ever "driver's seat" experience of VTA racing at Mike's Hobby Shop: http://youtu.be/xMx57E80Vx8

I apologize for the camera getting jolted around every time my car collided with another VTA or a wall. I have to come up with a sturdier mount for the camera.
Good job sharpie. That gives a great perspective of throttle and breaking around our track. You can hear when and where your on and off the throttle.
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Old 08-13-2012, 04:50 PM
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What kind of camera is that and where can I get one?
Originally Posted by wwddww34
Take a look at the 1st ever "driver's seat" experience of VTA racing at Mike's Hobby Shop: http://youtu.be/xMx57E80Vx8

I apologize for the camera getting jolted around every time my car collided with another VTA or a wall. I have to come up with a sturdier mount for the camera.
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