View Poll Results: what's your tire choice?
Protoform
46
30.67%
HPI
104
69.33%
Voters: 150. You may not vote on this poll
U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2
#2656
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
Hideeho
I'm a big fan of black & white, enforceable rules. As it sits the tire treatment rule is neither of those. There are 2 ways to deal with the rule, either clamp down or loosen up. The clamp down would be to completely do away with tire treatments all together. The enforcement would be not allowing people to put it on @ the track & allow race organizers to toss out any tire that seems to have been softened at all. The other alternative would be to open it up & only disallow things that are unsafe (fire). This will eventually lead to folks softening tires to the point you only get 1 race out of them. To combat that situation you can put a minimum tread rule in place. This can be anywhere from "There must discernable tread all the across the carcass of the tire at the completion of the race" to "at the completion of the race the tread depth must be a minimum of XXcm at any point on the tire."
Personally, as a current non-racer who will eventually find a track to race at, I feel the 1st rule more follows "the Spirit of USVTA" & would forcibly promote better driving.
I'm a big fan of black & white, enforceable rules. As it sits the tire treatment rule is neither of those. There are 2 ways to deal with the rule, either clamp down or loosen up. The clamp down would be to completely do away with tire treatments all together. The enforcement would be not allowing people to put it on @ the track & allow race organizers to toss out any tire that seems to have been softened at all. The other alternative would be to open it up & only disallow things that are unsafe (fire). This will eventually lead to folks softening tires to the point you only get 1 race out of them. To combat that situation you can put a minimum tread rule in place. This can be anywhere from "There must discernable tread all the across the carcass of the tire at the completion of the race" to "at the completion of the race the tread depth must be a minimum of XXcm at any point on the tire."
Personally, as a current non-racer who will eventually find a track to race at, I feel the 1st rule more follows "the Spirit of USVTA" & would forcibly promote better driving.
#2658
Tech Elite
iTrader: (93)
To do that would you put the foam on the rim first, Then put the tire over the foam and rim? I've had issues with my pit shimizu foams bunching up on my F1 wheels. I started CA gluing the foam together where it butts together but the CA'ed foam creates a noticeable hard spot after its mounted. I may try this double sided tape idea out.
#2659
Tech Elite
iTrader: (54)
To do that would you put the foam on the rim first, Then put the tire over the foam and rim? I've had issues with my pit shimizu foams bunching up on my F1 wheels. I started CA gluing the foam together where it butts together but the CA'ed foam creates a noticeable hard spot after its mounted. I may try this double sided tape idea out.
#2660
Tech Champion
iTrader: (2)
Put the tape on the rim, leaving the backing on the exposed side, dont overlap ends. Put the foam in the tire, then assembly on rim. Peel rear side of tire up enough to snag the tape backing with some tweezers or similar. slowly pull the tape backing out and the foam should set down on the now exposed sticky part.
Which reminds me that gluing tires and painting bodies is much more productive than arguing about tire sauce and paint jobs, so get crackin boys.
#2664
the instructions for the tamiya F104 on how to attach foam tires to the rims have a real good example of how to do the inner foam tape thing
#2668
Tech Champion
iTrader: (2)
just wanted to pass some info about the AE TC4 Club Racer Ive been checking out. I ran it Sunday and was able to keep it in the low 12's, even grabbing a 12.1 lap. Here is what Ive done to mine since I pulled it from the box.
I started with adding the electronics, which incl, Hobbywing Justock,Novak SS 25.5 refurb, XP 1313 servo, w/ my M11x radio and RX. I added the AE FT Motor Cooling Duct/Fan Kit and AE FT Graphite Battery Strap. With Zero setup, I was able to grab a 12.8 for fast lap...and avg around 13.2. This is basically taking it out of the box and setting it on the track....
But to get more out of it I went with the TC6.1 shocks and RSD springs and bladders. I also added FT Heavy Duty CVD Bones to the front after breaking one of the plastic ones that come with the car. Not to sure the shocks added anything but better adjustment and easier to setup. The car feels just as fast as my TC6 in VTA. Here is my final setup
TC4 Club Racer
Hobbywing Justock (no setup change)
Novak 25.5 SS refurb 40 deg time
XP 1313 servo
78 spur 54 pinion, FDR 3.61
Front
RSD blue springs
35 AE wt
5mm ride
7mm droop
silver sway bar
-1.5 camber
2 deg caster hubs
Rear
RSD green springs
30 AE wt
5mm ride
6mm droop
black sway bar
-1.5 camber
3 deg toe-in
http://www.teamassociated.com/cars_a...s_accessories/
I started with adding the electronics, which incl, Hobbywing Justock,Novak SS 25.5 refurb, XP 1313 servo, w/ my M11x radio and RX. I added the AE FT Motor Cooling Duct/Fan Kit and AE FT Graphite Battery Strap. With Zero setup, I was able to grab a 12.8 for fast lap...and avg around 13.2. This is basically taking it out of the box and setting it on the track....
But to get more out of it I went with the TC6.1 shocks and RSD springs and bladders. I also added FT Heavy Duty CVD Bones to the front after breaking one of the plastic ones that come with the car. Not to sure the shocks added anything but better adjustment and easier to setup. The car feels just as fast as my TC6 in VTA. Here is my final setup
TC4 Club Racer
Hobbywing Justock (no setup change)
Novak 25.5 SS refurb 40 deg time
XP 1313 servo
78 spur 54 pinion, FDR 3.61
Front
RSD blue springs
35 AE wt
5mm ride
7mm droop
silver sway bar
-1.5 camber
2 deg caster hubs
Rear
RSD green springs
30 AE wt
5mm ride
6mm droop
black sway bar
-1.5 camber
3 deg toe-in
http://www.teamassociated.com/cars_a...s_accessories/
#2669
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
The only thing that hurts that program is the $15 shipping charge. If you only are buying one thing, it may be less to just buy a new motor. Just double check. The way around it is to send in several items to Novak to combine shipping. The form allows up to 4. Team up with your buddies is what I did.
They offer refurbished too: http://v2.teamnovak.com/products/ind...bebee49f37b8c4
They offer refurbished too: http://v2.teamnovak.com/products/ind...bebee49f37b8c4
Ya after looking at the program and doing the math its not really worth it because there are cheaper options. thanks anyways