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Tekin Rs v222 Problems.
Does anyone else notice the brakes are terrible on version 222?
The speed is great, but smoothness is amazing, i loved being able to pretty much rip on the throttle with comfort of keeping grip on the track with full boost and full turbo and 2 ramp. but then i hit the hairpin at the end of the straight and with 100% ESC Brake and 100% Transmitter Brake, It Was Just Soft. With 212 I ran 100% ESC and 65% Transmitter Brake and it was still able to lock the tires. I love tekin but i hate to admit i'd rather run 212 because i like having the stopping power, and knowing how much better throttle control their is in 222 just sucks Win Loss situation i want a Win Win with Tekin. |
Originally Posted by EskimoGangsta
(Post 10314129)
Does anyone else notice the brakes are terrible on version 222?
The speed is great, but smoothness is amazing, i loved being able to pretty much rip on the throttle with comfort of keeping grip on the track with full boost and full turbo and 2 ramp. but then i hit the hairpin at the end of the straight and with 100% ESC Brake and 100% Transmitter Brake, It Was Just Soft. With 212 I ran 100% ESC and 65% Transmitter Brake and it was still able to lock the tires. I love tekin but i hate to admit i'd rather run 212 because i like having the stopping power, and knowing how much better throttle control their is in 222 just sucks Win Loss situation i want a Win Win with Tekin. |
I ran 222 last night with a 17.5 duo 3. Breaks were awesome. I actually forgot to re calibrate it to the radio as well.. Very smooth and strong.
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OP, sounds like you did something wrong.
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Originally Posted by HawaiiBob
(Post 10314193)
You did not mention if you re calibrated your transmitter after loading 222.
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Originally Posted by Timbulb
(Post 10314371)
OP, sounds like you did something wrong.
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One thing that just crossed my mind. last summer racing indoor offroad. i noticed my buddy's tekin kept shutting down and powering back up and his esc was coming off at over 160. he was running a high voltage servo and it was overworking the built in bec. my servo is not a high voltage servo, but it is meant for a 1/8 E-buggy (which i use it in every summer) maybe the rx8 bigger bec can handle it but not the rs. so when i hit the brakes and turn its causing it to over work? but i do regular after race temp checks. i average esc 90* give or take and motor 143-140* just throwing out ideas in text till i think of something ;)
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Put this in the Tekin forum dont start another one. What a waste of a thred ,this is why Tekin has their own
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This is the perfect place(RcTech) for this question. You will get many more responses on here.
As a matter of fact I suggest you start the same tread in the off-road section and get their opinion too. |
Originally Posted by Kent Beal
(Post 10314691)
This is the perfect place(RcTech) for this question. You will get many more responses on here.
As a matter of fact I suggest you start the same tread in the off-road section and get their opinion too. Thanks for the suggestion. Does anyone from tekin ever come on here? i'm having trouble making a username on tekin for some reason. says i cannot use my email :/ |
yes people from tekin come on the site, randy i am sure will chime in.
i dont run onroad, however, my experience testing 222 was that the brakes were far smoother than 212....this is in a 2wd offroad application though |
Thank you!!! I thought I was the only one!!! I don't have any highspeed brakes either. The ESC and programing are perfect in every other way excecpt the brakes at the end of the straight. It will be interesting to see what Randy has to say.
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Originally Posted by nitrobeast
(Post 10315312)
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If you are having braking issues with 222 I want you to do the following:
After the update, perform a factory reset. Install your esc setup via the hotwire,etc. Calibrate your radio with 100/100 on the epa's. Radio calibrate. Test your brakes. |
Originally Posted by Randy_Pike
(Post 10316151)
If you are having braking issues with 222 I want you to do the following:
After the update, perform a factory reset. Install your esc setup via the hotwire,etc. Calibrate your radio with 100/100 on the epa's. Radio calibrate. Test your brakes. Did the update Did do a factory reset Recalibrated 100/100 Then it looked ok, but when i hit the high traction braking point it was just soft. i was being under braked by every other esc and guys still using 212, and before i used to set my calibration to 100/100 then turn transmitter down to 65% and still have TONS of brake. barely ever hit full. So after the practice i redid the 222 update on the esc and did the update twice in a row before i made any changes. making double sure the software was installed. did all the re calibrations and didn't change a thing. The third time i put 212 back on then redid the 222 update with still no success. but 3 other esc's using my laptop had no issues. i still have 1 more esc to update (cousins car) but he has the same driving style of me. and if he has my braking issues to I know he'll hate it. 4 confirmed braking problems with different pc's from where they got the update. And I updated 4 esc's and only mine out of the 4 had issues. is there any differences from a older rs and a new rs? |
Originally Posted by EskimoGangsta
(Post 10316438)
When i was at the track yesterday i:
Did the update Did do a factory reset Recalibrated 100/100 Then it looked ok, but when i hit the high traction braking point it was just soft. i was being under braked by every other esc and guys still using 212, and before i used to set my calibration to 100/100 then turn transmitter down to 65% and still have TONS of brake. barely ever hit full. So after the practice i redid the 222 update on the esc and did the update twice in a row before i made any changes. making double sure the software was installed. did all the re calibrations and didn't change a thing. The third time i put 212 back on then redid the 222 update with still no success. but 3 other esc's using my laptop had no issues. i still have 1 more esc to update (cousins car) but he has the same driving style of me. and if he has my braking issues to I know he'll hate it. 4 confirmed braking problems with different pc's from where they got the update. And I updated 4 esc's and only mine out of the 4 had issues. is there any differences from a older rs and a new rs? So what's the entire setup? When you hit full brake do all led's light up and flash? |
Originally Posted by Randy_Pike
(Post 10316454)
No, nothing hardware will change here. Understand that the motor you use also affects braking.
So what's the entire setup? When you hit full brake do all led's light up and flash? And yes all led light up and flash when i hit full throttle and brake. |
Also to add a note. Motor is brand new this year with only 8 race weekends on it
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Originally Posted by EskimoGangsta
(Post 10316521)
36/96 gearing with 2.0 final drive.
It should help with the brakes, going up in fdr. |
Originally Posted by locked
(Post 10317022)
5.3 FDR is a bit low for boosted 17.5 at Lou's. I'm around 6.4. A lot of guys are around 7. Try a 29 or 30 tooth pinion. If you need more top end, add more turbo ;)
It should help with the brakes, going up in fdr. |
Originally Posted by EskimoGangsta;1031[COLOR="Red"
Where is it timed?[/COLOR]6521]I'm using a outlaw 17.5 motor which i believe is just a slightly modded EPIC Duo III.
36/96 gearing with 2.0 final drive.You mean internal gearing right? And yes all led light up and flash when i hit full throttle and brake. |
Originally Posted by EskimoGangsta
(Post 10316521)
I'm using a outlaw 17.5 motor which i believe is just a slightly modded EPIC Duo III. esc is the rs. receiver and transmitter spektrum dx3, servo is a savox sc-1257, Thunder power 5200 50~100c Batts, 36/96 gearing with 2.0 final drive.
And yes all led light up and flash when i hit full throttle and brake. so approx 5.3 FDR voltage cutoff 2s drive mode sensored only motor direction Normal throttle profile Custom current limit Off throttle min 5 push control Off drag brake Off brake strength 100 reverse speed 0 neutral width 10 brake min 5 boost 55 start 3216 end 23000 turbo delay 0.05 turbo 20 ramp 3 Esc temp avg 90 Deg F motor temps Avg 130-140 Deg F |
If i were to try more caps i would run them in parallel correct?
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What track do you race at? Those settings are way too high for any indoor track. It might not help your brakes but you have too much of everything IMO.
Also just for reference a motor with 8 weekends on it is far from brand new. |
Originally Posted by EskimoGangsta
(Post 10321648)
If i were to try more caps i would run them in parallel correct?
I had a strange loss of brakes from running a rather large valued cap, thinking I would eliminate any problems from surges. I could never get any brakes at all with any settings on the esc or transmitter. I was running stock 1/12th with that particular set-up, so it really wasn't too much of a problem as I don't use brakes, except when gridding up, but that turned out to be the culprit. I was trying a 1/2 farad super cap. So more was not better in that case. Not sure if Ty or someone at Tekin could confirm, but its one more possibility. I realize that you did not have problems before the update, so this may have no connection to what is happening for you. Everyone I have been around that has updated, has had the opposite if anything, the need to take out brakes. |
Originally Posted by EskimoGangsta
(Post 10321608)
yes sorry 2.0 internal.
so approx 5.3 FDR voltage cutoff 2s drive mode sensored only motor direction Normal throttle profile Custom current limit Off throttle min 5 push control Off drag brake Off brake strength 100 reverse speed 0 neutral width 10 brake min 5 boost 55 start 3216 end 23000 turbo delay 0.05 turbo 20 ramp 3 Esc temp avg 90 Deg F motor temps Avg 130-140 Deg F thanks Jason |
Originally Posted by EskimoGangsta
(Post 10321608)
yes sorry 2.0 internal.
so approx 5.3 FDR boost 55 start 3216 end 23000 turbo delay 0.05 turbo 20 ramp 3 Esc temp avg 90 Deg F motor temps Avg 130-140 Deg F You still didn't tell me where the motors mechanical timing is set? |
Originally Posted by L.Fairtrace
(Post 10321663)
What track do you race at? Those settings are way too high for any indoor track. It might not help your brakes but you have too much of everything IMO.
Also just for reference a motor with 8 weekends on it is far from brand new. and i raced at lou's speedway. i originally had boost at 55 and turbo at 15 with 2 ramp. but when 222 came out the throttle was smooth enough i could keep the car on the track at max. and at that track the only spot i ever really hit full throttle was the straightaway. |
Originally Posted by oldrcr
(Post 10321773)
Just wondering, are you currently running the cap that Tekin provides, or a different value in any way? Whether its Farad rating, voltage or low ESR or not.
I had a strange loss of brakes from running a rather large valued cap, thinking I would eliminate any problems from surges. I could never get any brakes at all with any settings on the esc or transmitter. I was running stock 1/12th with that particular set-up, so it really wasn't too much of a problem as I don't use brakes, except when gridding up, but that turned out to be the culprit. I was trying a 1/2 farad super cap. So more was not better in that case. Not sure if Ty or someone at Tekin could confirm, but its one more possibility. I realize that you did not have problems before the update, so this may have no connection to what is happening for you. Everyone I have been around that has updated, has had the opposite if anything, the need to take out brakes. |
Originally Posted by racing_jason
(Post 10321915)
i would deffinately try gearing down that seems really high and maybe a slight less amount of turbo. also double check that you have your endbell timing at 0. those should help you with the brakes. i have ran this software now for a while and i have had very good success with the brakes. only other thing that it could be is a bad cap make sure the cap is good as well.
thanks Jason |
Originally Posted by Randy_Pike
(Post 10321967)
While your motor temps are fine this setup is over doing the track especially with the gearing. Try turbo delay .15, 10 turbo boost, 2.0 ramp rate,45-50 on boost.
You still didn't tell me where the motors mechanical timing is set? |
Right but if you're over geared you're not giving the motor any leverage to slow the car down.
It's like compression braking in a car. You must downshift to use it. If you prefer the 212 braking by all means, go back to it. That's why we left both versions intact. |
Originally Posted by EskimoGangsta
(Post 10322025)
I have tried my car with a 34 tooth pinion when i was running 212 and i didn't like how snappy it got on me, i drove more consistent and smoother with the 36. and my mechanical timing has always been set to 0deg.
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Originally Posted by racing_jason
(Post 10322115)
if it is getting snappy on you i would recomend lest boost say about 45 or so and that should smooth it out and being able to gear down. and then maybe also lengethn out your delay as well.
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We have had requests for additional brake power in boosted spec TC classes, and we are going to give it to you. We are adding a new active brake setting that will feel more like V212 in super boosted setups at high rpms. So for those of you that feel that the 222 brakes are a bit weak at the end of the straight away this will give you the additional power you're looking for. In classes like 2wd offroad 212 brakes had room for improvement in feel and modulation. Now that spec racing is becoming more popular the team felt that the added driveability of the 222 brakes made for faster laptimes, something we're always looking to improve.
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike
(Post 10329134)
We have had requests for additional brake power in boosted spec TC classes, and we are going to give it to you. We are adding a new active brake setting that will feel more like V212 in super boosted setups at high rpms. So for those of you that feel that the 222 brakes are a bit weak at the end of the straight away this will give you the additional power you're looking for. In classes like 2wd offroad 212 brakes had room for improvement in feel and modulation. Now that spec racing is becoming more popular the team felt that the added driveability of the 222 brakes made for faster laptimes, something we're always looking to improve.
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike
(Post 10329134)
We have had requests for additional brake power in boosted spec TC classes, and we are going to give it to you. We are adding a new active brake setting that will feel more like V212 in super boosted setups at high rpms. So for those of you that feel that the 222 brakes are a bit weak at the end of the straight away this will give you the additional power you're looking for. In classes like 2wd offroad 212 brakes had room for improvement in feel and modulation. Now that spec racing is becoming more popular the team felt that the added driveability of the 222 brakes made for faster laptimes, something we're always looking to improve.
Thumbs up guys |
What's the update on the V222 software, it's off the Tekin website???
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when its ready it will be released as V223.
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