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-   -   Tekin Rs v222 Problems. (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-road/598074-tekin-rs-v222-problems.html)

EskimoGangsta 02-11-2012 08:23 PM

Tekin Rs v222 Problems.
 
Does anyone else notice the brakes are terrible on version 222?

The speed is great, but smoothness is amazing, i loved being able to pretty much rip on the throttle with comfort of keeping grip on the track with full boost and full turbo and 2 ramp.

but then i hit the hairpin at the end of the straight and with 100% ESC Brake and 100% Transmitter Brake, It Was Just Soft. With 212 I ran 100% ESC and 65% Transmitter Brake and it was still able to lock the tires.

I love tekin but i hate to admit i'd rather run 212 because i like having the stopping power, and knowing how much better throttle control their is in 222 just sucks

Win Loss situation i want a Win Win with Tekin.

HawaiiBob 02-11-2012 08:40 PM


Originally Posted by EskimoGangsta (Post 10314129)
Does anyone else notice the brakes are terrible on version 222?

The speed is great, but smoothness is amazing, i loved being able to pretty much rip on the throttle with comfort of keeping grip on the track with full boost and full turbo and 2 ramp.

but then i hit the hairpin at the end of the straight and with 100% ESC Brake and 100% Transmitter Brake, It Was Just Soft. With 212 I ran 100% ESC and 65% Transmitter Brake and it was still able to lock the tires.

I love tekin but i hate to admit i'd rather run 212 because i like having the stopping power, and knowing how much better throttle control their is in 222 just sucks

Win Loss situation i want a Win Win with Tekin.

You did not mention if you re calibrated your transmitter after loading 222.

wollow86 02-11-2012 08:58 PM

I ran 222 last night with a 17.5 duo 3. Breaks were awesome. I actually forgot to re calibrate it to the radio as well.. Very smooth and strong.

Timbulb 02-11-2012 09:27 PM

OP, sounds like you did something wrong.

EskimoGangsta 02-11-2012 09:35 PM


Originally Posted by HawaiiBob (Post 10314193)
You did not mention if you re calibrated your transmitter after loading 222.

Sorry, Yes i did recalibrate multiple times. and also reloaded the 222 software completely on the esc 3 times. i thought at first it was my esc, but then others at the track were complaining to. we had a show of 80+ people and i'd say at least half run tekin and confirmed me + 3 were having these issues.

EskimoGangsta 02-11-2012 09:40 PM


Originally Posted by Timbulb (Post 10314371)
OP, sounds like you did something wrong.

Not sure what i did wrong though, my cousin said his felt kinda weaker but ok, and my other buddy said his were spot on, both loaded from the same pc i used. i even went to the extent of changing my receiver. I've herd tekin has great tech support (which is why i recently switched to 2yrs ago) but this is my very first issue with my rs. my other rs on 212 and rs pro on 212 and rx8 are still solid

EskimoGangsta 02-11-2012 09:55 PM

One thing that just crossed my mind. last summer racing indoor offroad. i noticed my buddy's tekin kept shutting down and powering back up and his esc was coming off at over 160. he was running a high voltage servo and it was overworking the built in bec. my servo is not a high voltage servo, but it is meant for a 1/8 E-buggy (which i use it in every summer) maybe the rx8 bigger bec can handle it but not the rs. so when i hit the brakes and turn its causing it to over work? but i do regular after race temp checks. i average esc 90* give or take and motor 143-140* just throwing out ideas in text till i think of something ;)

303slowdown 02-11-2012 10:45 PM

Put this in the Tekin forum dont start another one. What a waste of a thred ,this is why Tekin has their own

Kent Beal 02-11-2012 11:10 PM

This is the perfect place(RcTech) for this question. You will get many more responses on here.

As a matter of fact I suggest you start the same tread in the off-road section and get their opinion too.

EskimoGangsta 02-12-2012 04:44 AM


Originally Posted by Kent Beal (Post 10314691)
This is the perfect place(RcTech) for this question. You will get many more responses on here.

As a matter of fact I suggest you start the same tread in the off-road section and get their opinion too.


Thanks for the suggestion. Does anyone from tekin ever come on here? i'm having trouble making a username on tekin for some reason. says i cannot use my email :/

Matt M. 02-12-2012 04:59 AM

yes people from tekin come on the site, randy i am sure will chime in.

i dont run onroad, however, my experience testing 222 was that the brakes were far smoother than 212....this is in a 2wd offroad application though

Con 02-12-2012 05:19 AM

Thank you!!! I thought I was the only one!!! I don't have any highspeed brakes either. The ESC and programing are perfect in every other way excecpt the brakes at the end of the straight. It will be interesting to see what Randy has to say.

nitrobeast 02-12-2012 05:33 AM

Post here...

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ored-1459.html

EskimoGangsta 02-12-2012 05:55 AM


Originally Posted by nitrobeast (Post 10315312)

I think this issue desrves it's own thread at the moment ;) but i did post in their earlier.

Randy_Pike 02-12-2012 09:56 AM

If you are having braking issues with 222 I want you to do the following:

After the update, perform a factory reset.

Install your esc setup via the hotwire,etc.

Calibrate your radio with 100/100 on the epa's. Radio calibrate.

Test your brakes.

EskimoGangsta 02-12-2012 11:19 AM


Originally Posted by Randy_Pike (Post 10316151)
If you are having braking issues with 222 I want you to do the following:

After the update, perform a factory reset.

Install your esc setup via the hotwire,etc.

Calibrate your radio with 100/100 on the epa's. Radio calibrate.

Test your brakes.

When i was at the track yesterday i:
Did the update
Did do a factory reset
Recalibrated 100/100
Then it looked ok, but when i hit the high traction braking point it was just soft. i was being under braked by every other esc and guys still using 212, and before i used to set my calibration to 100/100 then turn transmitter down to 65% and still have TONS of brake. barely ever hit full.

So after the practice i redid the 222 update on the esc and did the update twice in a row before i made any changes. making double sure the software was installed. did all the re calibrations and didn't change a thing.

The third time i put 212 back on then redid the 222 update with still no success. but 3 other esc's using my laptop had no issues. i still have 1 more esc to update (cousins car) but he has the same driving style of me. and if he has my braking issues to I know he'll hate it.

4 confirmed braking problems with different pc's from where they got the update.
And I updated 4 esc's and only mine out of the 4 had issues.
is there any differences from a older rs and a new rs?

Randy_Pike 02-12-2012 11:26 AM


Originally Posted by EskimoGangsta (Post 10316438)
When i was at the track yesterday i:
Did the update
Did do a factory reset
Recalibrated 100/100
Then it looked ok, but when i hit the high traction braking point it was just soft. i was being under braked by every other esc and guys still using 212, and before i used to set my calibration to 100/100 then turn transmitter down to 65% and still have TONS of brake. barely ever hit full.

So after the practice i redid the 222 update on the esc and did the update twice in a row before i made any changes. making double sure the software was installed. did all the re calibrations and didn't change a thing.

The third time i put 212 back on then redid the 222 update with still no success. but 3 other esc's using my laptop had no issues. i still have 1 more esc to update (cousins car) but he has the same driving style of me. and if he has my braking issues to I know he'll hate it.

4 confirmed braking problems with different pc's from where they got the update.
And I updated 4 esc's and only mine out of the 4 had issues.
is there any differences from a older rs and a new rs?

No, nothing hardware will change here. Understand that the motor you use also affects braking.

So what's the entire setup? When you hit full brake do all led's light up and flash?

EskimoGangsta 02-12-2012 11:46 AM


Originally Posted by Randy_Pike (Post 10316454)
No, nothing hardware will change here. Understand that the motor you use also affects braking.

So what's the entire setup? When you hit full brake do all led's light up and flash?

I'm using a outlaw 17.5 motor which i believe is just a slightly modded EPIC Duo III. esc is the rs. receiver and transmitter spektrum dx3, servo is a savox sc-1257, Thunder power 5200 50~100c Batts, 36/96 gearing with 2.0 final drive.

And yes all led light up and flash when i hit full throttle and brake.

EskimoGangsta 02-12-2012 11:59 AM

Also to add a note. Motor is brand new this year with only 8 race weekends on it

locked 02-12-2012 02:09 PM


Originally Posted by EskimoGangsta (Post 10316521)
36/96 gearing with 2.0 final drive.

5.3 FDR is a bit low for boosted 17.5 at Lou's. I'm around 6.4. A lot of guys are around 7. Try a 29 or 30 tooth pinion. If you need more top end, add more turbo ;)

It should help with the brakes, going up in fdr.

EskimoGangsta 02-12-2012 07:54 PM


Originally Posted by locked (Post 10317022)
5.3 FDR is a bit low for boosted 17.5 at Lou's. I'm around 6.4. A lot of guys are around 7. Try a 29 or 30 tooth pinion. If you need more top end, add more turbo ;)

It should help with the brakes, going up in fdr.

It's what I've always ran, tons of bottom end and top end. come off at 140 consistently. I like running a taller gear and no timing.

Randy_Pike 02-13-2012 08:22 AM


Originally Posted by EskimoGangsta;1031[COLOR="Red"
Where is it timed?[/COLOR]6521]I'm using a outlaw 17.5 motor which i believe is just a slightly modded EPIC Duo III.

36/96 gearing with 2.0 final drive.You mean internal gearing right?

And yes all led light up and flash when i hit full throttle and brake.

How big is your track?

EskimoGangsta 02-13-2012 10:28 AM


Originally Posted by EskimoGangsta (Post 10316521)
I'm using a outlaw 17.5 motor which i believe is just a slightly modded EPIC Duo III. esc is the rs. receiver and transmitter spektrum dx3, servo is a savox sc-1257, Thunder power 5200 50~100c Batts, 36/96 gearing with 2.0 final drive.

And yes all led light up and flash when i hit full throttle and brake.

yes sorry 2.0 internal.

so approx 5.3 FDR

voltage cutoff 2s
drive mode sensored only
motor direction Normal
throttle profile Custom
current limit Off
throttle min 5
push control Off
drag brake Off
brake strength 100
reverse speed 0
neutral width 10
brake min 5

boost 55
start 3216
end 23000

turbo delay 0.05

turbo 20
ramp 3

Esc temp avg 90 Deg F
motor temps Avg 130-140 Deg F

EskimoGangsta 02-13-2012 10:38 AM

If i were to try more caps i would run them in parallel correct?

L.Fairtrace 02-13-2012 10:40 AM

What track do you race at? Those settings are way too high for any indoor track. It might not help your brakes but you have too much of everything IMO.

Also just for reference a motor with 8 weekends on it is far from brand new.

oldrcr 02-13-2012 11:16 AM


Originally Posted by EskimoGangsta (Post 10321648)
If i were to try more caps i would run them in parallel correct?

Just wondering, are you currently running the cap that Tekin provides, or a different value in any way? Whether its Farad rating, voltage or low ESR or not.

I had a strange loss of brakes from running a rather large valued cap, thinking I would eliminate any problems from surges. I could never get any brakes at all with any settings on the esc or transmitter. I was running stock 1/12th with that particular set-up, so it really wasn't too much of a problem as I don't use brakes, except when gridding up, but that turned out to be the culprit. I was trying a 1/2 farad super cap. So more was not better in that case. Not sure if Ty or someone at Tekin could confirm, but its one more possibility. I realize that you did not have problems before the update, so this may have no connection to what is happening for you. Everyone I have been around that has updated, has had the opposite if anything, the need to take out brakes.

racing_jason 02-13-2012 11:49 AM


Originally Posted by EskimoGangsta (Post 10321608)
yes sorry 2.0 internal.

so approx 5.3 FDR

voltage cutoff 2s
drive mode sensored only
motor direction Normal
throttle profile Custom
current limit Off
throttle min 5
push control Off
drag brake Off
brake strength 100
reverse speed 0
neutral width 10
brake min 5

boost 55
start 3216
end 23000

turbo delay 0.05

turbo 20
ramp 3

Esc temp avg 90 Deg F
motor temps Avg 130-140 Deg F

i would deffinately try gearing down that seems really high and maybe a slight less amount of turbo. also double check that you have your endbell timing at 0. those should help you with the brakes. i have ran this software now for a while and i have had very good success with the brakes. only other thing that it could be is a bad cap make sure the cap is good as well.
thanks Jason

Randy_Pike 02-13-2012 11:58 AM


Originally Posted by EskimoGangsta (Post 10321608)
yes sorry 2.0 internal.

so approx 5.3 FDR

boost 55
start 3216
end 23000

turbo delay 0.05

turbo 20
ramp 3

Esc temp avg 90 Deg F
motor temps Avg 130-140 Deg F

While your motor temps are fine this setup is over doing the track especially with the gearing. Try turbo delay .15, 10 turbo boost, 2.0 ramp rate,45-50 on boost.

You still didn't tell me where the motors mechanical timing is set?

EskimoGangsta 02-13-2012 11:59 AM


Originally Posted by L.Fairtrace (Post 10321663)
What track do you race at? Those settings are way too high for any indoor track. It might not help your brakes but you have too much of everything IMO.

Also just for reference a motor with 8 weekends on it is far from brand new.

I Guess 8 weekends does sound like a lot, usually i buy used motors since im a budget racer. but i only run 2 quals and a main and maybe 10 practice laps per week. so for me just over 30 runs is considered pretty new. the esc i have is now 3yrs old. last week i finally bought my first set of tires after running 7 weekends on them including like 5 weekends or so from last year

and i raced at lou's speedway. i originally had boost at 55 and turbo at 15 with 2 ramp. but when 222 came out the throttle was smooth enough i could keep the car on the track at max. and at that track the only spot i ever really hit full throttle was the straightaway.

EskimoGangsta 02-13-2012 12:01 PM


Originally Posted by oldrcr (Post 10321773)
Just wondering, are you currently running the cap that Tekin provides, or a different value in any way? Whether its Farad rating, voltage or low ESR or not.

I had a strange loss of brakes from running a rather large valued cap, thinking I would eliminate any problems from surges. I could never get any brakes at all with any settings on the esc or transmitter. I was running stock 1/12th with that particular set-up, so it really wasn't too much of a problem as I don't use brakes, except when gridding up, but that turned out to be the culprit. I was trying a 1/2 farad super cap. So more was not better in that case. Not sure if Ty or someone at Tekin could confirm, but its one more possibility. I realize that you did not have problems before the update, so this may have no connection to what is happening for you. Everyone I have been around that has updated, has had the opposite if anything, the need to take out brakes.

I'm running a single cap that comes with the tekin when you get it.

EskimoGangsta 02-13-2012 12:05 PM


Originally Posted by racing_jason (Post 10321915)
i would deffinately try gearing down that seems really high and maybe a slight less amount of turbo. also double check that you have your endbell timing at 0. those should help you with the brakes. i have ran this software now for a while and i have had very good success with the brakes. only other thing that it could be is a bad cap make sure the cap is good as well.
thanks Jason

I never run any endbell timing. i like the feel of gearing up a tooth then raising the endbell timing. and just from experience i find raising the timing to get the same amount as top speed with gearing creates more heat. Even with my gearing i've never blown up any motors while racing.

EskimoGangsta 02-13-2012 12:08 PM


Originally Posted by Randy_Pike (Post 10321967)
While your motor temps are fine this setup is over doing the track especially with the gearing. Try turbo delay .15, 10 turbo boost, 2.0 ramp rate,45-50 on boost.

You still didn't tell me where the motors mechanical timing is set?

I have tried my car with a 34 tooth pinion when i was running 212 and i didn't like how snappy it got on me, i drove more consistent and smoother with the 36. and my mechanical timing has always been set to 0deg.

Randy_Pike 02-13-2012 12:31 PM

Right but if you're over geared you're not giving the motor any leverage to slow the car down.

It's like compression braking in a car. You must downshift to use it.

If you prefer the 212 braking by all means, go back to it. That's why we left both versions intact.

racing_jason 02-13-2012 12:32 PM


Originally Posted by EskimoGangsta (Post 10322025)
I have tried my car with a 34 tooth pinion when i was running 212 and i didn't like how snappy it got on me, i drove more consistent and smoother with the 36. and my mechanical timing has always been set to 0deg.

if it is getting snappy on you i would recomend lest boost say about 45 or so and that should smooth it out and being able to gear down. and then maybe also lengethn out your delay as well.

EskimoGangsta 02-13-2012 05:27 PM


Originally Posted by racing_jason (Post 10322115)
if it is getting snappy on you i would recomend lest boost say about 45 or so and that should smooth it out and being able to gear down. and then maybe also lengethn out your delay as well.

Ya, I'll give less boost with less gear a try. thanks

Randy_Pike 02-14-2012 05:45 PM

We have had requests for additional brake power in boosted spec TC classes, and we are going to give it to you. We are adding a new active brake setting that will feel more like V212 in super boosted setups at high rpms. So for those of you that feel that the 222 brakes are a bit weak at the end of the straight away this will give you the additional power you're looking for. In classes like 2wd offroad 212 brakes had room for improvement in feel and modulation. Now that spec racing is becoming more popular the team felt that the added driveability of the 222 brakes made for faster laptimes, something we're always looking to improve.

Groomie 02-14-2012 07:23 PM


Originally Posted by Randy_Pike (Post 10329134)
We have had requests for additional brake power in boosted spec TC classes, and we are going to give it to you. We are adding a new active brake setting that will feel more like V212 in super boosted setups at high rpms. So for those of you that feel that the 222 brakes are a bit weak at the end of the straight away this will give you the additional power you're looking for. In classes like 2wd offroad 212 brakes had room for improvement in feel and modulation. Now that spec racing is becoming more popular the team felt that the added driveability of the 222 brakes made for faster laptimes, something we're always looking to improve.

When will the release be available ???

EskimoGangsta 02-14-2012 09:09 PM


Originally Posted by Randy_Pike (Post 10329134)
We have had requests for additional brake power in boosted spec TC classes, and we are going to give it to you. We are adding a new active brake setting that will feel more like V212 in super boosted setups at high rpms. So for those of you that feel that the 222 brakes are a bit weak at the end of the straight away this will give you the additional power you're looking for. In classes like 2wd offroad 212 brakes had room for improvement in feel and modulation. Now that spec racing is becoming more popular the team felt that the added driveability of the 222 brakes made for faster laptimes, something we're always looking to improve.

And this is why i go Tekin!

Thumbs up guys

Kent Beal 02-22-2012 07:49 PM

What's the update on the V222 software, it's off the Tekin website???

Odin544 02-22-2012 07:55 PM

when its ready it will be released as V223.


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