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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike
(Post 10316151)
If you are having braking issues with 222 I want you to do the following:
After the update, perform a factory reset. Install your esc setup via the hotwire,etc. Calibrate your radio with 100/100 on the epa's. Radio calibrate. Test your brakes. Did the update Did do a factory reset Recalibrated 100/100 Then it looked ok, but when i hit the high traction braking point it was just soft. i was being under braked by every other esc and guys still using 212, and before i used to set my calibration to 100/100 then turn transmitter down to 65% and still have TONS of brake. barely ever hit full. So after the practice i redid the 222 update on the esc and did the update twice in a row before i made any changes. making double sure the software was installed. did all the re calibrations and didn't change a thing. The third time i put 212 back on then redid the 222 update with still no success. but 3 other esc's using my laptop had no issues. i still have 1 more esc to update (cousins car) but he has the same driving style of me. and if he has my braking issues to I know he'll hate it. 4 confirmed braking problems with different pc's from where they got the update. And I updated 4 esc's and only mine out of the 4 had issues. is there any differences from a older rs and a new rs? |
Originally Posted by EskimoGangsta
(Post 10316438)
When i was at the track yesterday i:
Did the update Did do a factory reset Recalibrated 100/100 Then it looked ok, but when i hit the high traction braking point it was just soft. i was being under braked by every other esc and guys still using 212, and before i used to set my calibration to 100/100 then turn transmitter down to 65% and still have TONS of brake. barely ever hit full. So after the practice i redid the 222 update on the esc and did the update twice in a row before i made any changes. making double sure the software was installed. did all the re calibrations and didn't change a thing. The third time i put 212 back on then redid the 222 update with still no success. but 3 other esc's using my laptop had no issues. i still have 1 more esc to update (cousins car) but he has the same driving style of me. and if he has my braking issues to I know he'll hate it. 4 confirmed braking problems with different pc's from where they got the update. And I updated 4 esc's and only mine out of the 4 had issues. is there any differences from a older rs and a new rs? So what's the entire setup? When you hit full brake do all led's light up and flash? |
Originally Posted by Randy_Pike
(Post 10316454)
No, nothing hardware will change here. Understand that the motor you use also affects braking.
So what's the entire setup? When you hit full brake do all led's light up and flash? And yes all led light up and flash when i hit full throttle and brake. |
Also to add a note. Motor is brand new this year with only 8 race weekends on it
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Originally Posted by EskimoGangsta
(Post 10316521)
36/96 gearing with 2.0 final drive.
It should help with the brakes, going up in fdr. |
Originally Posted by locked
(Post 10317022)
5.3 FDR is a bit low for boosted 17.5 at Lou's. I'm around 6.4. A lot of guys are around 7. Try a 29 or 30 tooth pinion. If you need more top end, add more turbo ;)
It should help with the brakes, going up in fdr. |
Originally Posted by EskimoGangsta;1031[COLOR="Red"
Where is it timed?[/COLOR]6521]I'm using a outlaw 17.5 motor which i believe is just a slightly modded EPIC Duo III.
36/96 gearing with 2.0 final drive.You mean internal gearing right? And yes all led light up and flash when i hit full throttle and brake. |
Originally Posted by EskimoGangsta
(Post 10316521)
I'm using a outlaw 17.5 motor which i believe is just a slightly modded EPIC Duo III. esc is the rs. receiver and transmitter spektrum dx3, servo is a savox sc-1257, Thunder power 5200 50~100c Batts, 36/96 gearing with 2.0 final drive.
And yes all led light up and flash when i hit full throttle and brake. so approx 5.3 FDR voltage cutoff 2s drive mode sensored only motor direction Normal throttle profile Custom current limit Off throttle min 5 push control Off drag brake Off brake strength 100 reverse speed 0 neutral width 10 brake min 5 boost 55 start 3216 end 23000 turbo delay 0.05 turbo 20 ramp 3 Esc temp avg 90 Deg F motor temps Avg 130-140 Deg F |
If i were to try more caps i would run them in parallel correct?
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What track do you race at? Those settings are way too high for any indoor track. It might not help your brakes but you have too much of everything IMO.
Also just for reference a motor with 8 weekends on it is far from brand new. |
Originally Posted by EskimoGangsta
(Post 10321648)
If i were to try more caps i would run them in parallel correct?
I had a strange loss of brakes from running a rather large valued cap, thinking I would eliminate any problems from surges. I could never get any brakes at all with any settings on the esc or transmitter. I was running stock 1/12th with that particular set-up, so it really wasn't too much of a problem as I don't use brakes, except when gridding up, but that turned out to be the culprit. I was trying a 1/2 farad super cap. So more was not better in that case. Not sure if Ty or someone at Tekin could confirm, but its one more possibility. I realize that you did not have problems before the update, so this may have no connection to what is happening for you. Everyone I have been around that has updated, has had the opposite if anything, the need to take out brakes. |
Originally Posted by EskimoGangsta
(Post 10321608)
yes sorry 2.0 internal.
so approx 5.3 FDR voltage cutoff 2s drive mode sensored only motor direction Normal throttle profile Custom current limit Off throttle min 5 push control Off drag brake Off brake strength 100 reverse speed 0 neutral width 10 brake min 5 boost 55 start 3216 end 23000 turbo delay 0.05 turbo 20 ramp 3 Esc temp avg 90 Deg F motor temps Avg 130-140 Deg F thanks Jason |
Originally Posted by EskimoGangsta
(Post 10321608)
yes sorry 2.0 internal.
so approx 5.3 FDR boost 55 start 3216 end 23000 turbo delay 0.05 turbo 20 ramp 3 Esc temp avg 90 Deg F motor temps Avg 130-140 Deg F You still didn't tell me where the motors mechanical timing is set? |
Originally Posted by L.Fairtrace
(Post 10321663)
What track do you race at? Those settings are way too high for any indoor track. It might not help your brakes but you have too much of everything IMO.
Also just for reference a motor with 8 weekends on it is far from brand new. and i raced at lou's speedway. i originally had boost at 55 and turbo at 15 with 2 ramp. but when 222 came out the throttle was smooth enough i could keep the car on the track at max. and at that track the only spot i ever really hit full throttle was the straightaway. |
Originally Posted by oldrcr
(Post 10321773)
Just wondering, are you currently running the cap that Tekin provides, or a different value in any way? Whether its Farad rating, voltage or low ESR or not.
I had a strange loss of brakes from running a rather large valued cap, thinking I would eliminate any problems from surges. I could never get any brakes at all with any settings on the esc or transmitter. I was running stock 1/12th with that particular set-up, so it really wasn't too much of a problem as I don't use brakes, except when gridding up, but that turned out to be the culprit. I was trying a 1/2 farad super cap. So more was not better in that case. Not sure if Ty or someone at Tekin could confirm, but its one more possibility. I realize that you did not have problems before the update, so this may have no connection to what is happening for you. Everyone I have been around that has updated, has had the opposite if anything, the need to take out brakes. |
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