Best lipo for blinky racing
 

Hello,

what are the best lipo for 13.5t blinky racing ?
I use SMC 5200 50C

Thanks

Does money matter?

imho, GensAce 5000 or 5600 2S pack, ROAR approved. $35 ea.

Shawn.

les lipos potam

Ive always loved Orion.

does the higher c ratings is better or worst for stock racing??

What is blinky racing?

Blinky is the class that roar, efra, ifmar, etc. created for the speed controls that cant keep up in boosted :lol: its just the spec class run at many tracks around the world now, very popular, it was created to make racing more competitive, but in my area, it never changed anything except now you need a new motor and battery every month to get fast and have any hope of staying fast.

On topic- I run SpeedZone USA lipo packs, the newest pack is the 6300MaH 65c pack, still waiting on my new one, but so far it has been the best lipo pack i have ever ran, being a team driver has nothing to do with that opinion to be honest. Consider them, you wont regret it. www.speedzoneusa.com :nod:

Depends the higher c rating is nice, but then it will lower run time.

Thats in-correct.


Run time is only effected by the consumption rate, and the capacity of the battery. The C rating of the cell has nothing to do with run time.


Shawn

7question, how many grams do these weigh?

around 260 grams, not sure what other packs weight, but my car (Top Photon) with HobbyWing speedo, futaba faast receiver, savox- 1251mg servo and reVtech 17.5 with 10grams on the battery side for balance is only 15 grams over weight.:nod:

+1 for SpeedZone. Very well priced, and I've been receiving better numbers lately than Thunder Power packs, and even SMC. And there punchy, check em out.

RevTech packs were the pack of choice at IIC this year. I've been very happy with the performance. As for weight, 144g for the 1s 65 5600 packs.

I believe he was asking about 2 cell packs, i hope so haha, if not then no, that is not the weight, thats the weight of a 2 cell lipo.

where can you get gensace 5600 2s pack?

smc is no good. they puff easily

yes i was, thanks. i am currently running the TP 5300 65c and i have my car exactly at 1380. now if i purchase, i know how/where to redistribute the weight before hand.

thanks again.

No problem, if you have any more question just head on over to the SpeedZone team thread, i think the weight has alot to do with the electronics i run, they are fairly heavy:nod:

....

CRC Rocket Fuel pack has won a lot of blinky races. 5600/65C

Old news. The latest SMC packs are excellent. The puffing problem may have been packs bought from China/Hong Kong that were cheap copies using the SMC label.

On second thoughts, please go ahead and believe this wrong statement, go and buy someone else's pack, and then I will be able to beat you with my SMC pack!! :lol: :sneaky::ha::tire:

Seriously, SMC is a very good cell, good price, no puffing problems and excellent performance. HTH :)

why do you think smc disappeared in this forum?

btw i bought my smc (my first new pack) cost me $130 from nexus. and it puffed in 2 months with good care.
maybe nexus is selling "cheap copies using the SMC label"

forget the smc and get some gens ace. good price with good performance

Finaly i have order 2 GensAce. Very good price, 35€, for a SMC it's 85€

For the history:
- one of my SMC is a 2S2P, 290g
- the other is 2S1P, 270g
Is this ok ?

Merci pour l'info, si tu as un exemplaire à vendre ...

SMC 6000mAh 60c works well for me...

[QUeOTE=TfnG;10155975]SMC 6000mAh 60c works well for me...[/QUOTE]

Will never buy smc again. Expensive. Heavy. Poor customer service.
not reliable. I learn the lesson by using their crappy pricy products

SMC 60C 6000mah has been great for me! I have one that is close to two years old and still running strong. Reliable performance with top notch service. SMC is hard to beat.

Art

If you think you have had top notch service from them, you have obviously had problems with your SMC batteries...

I will let others tell their stories http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ry-puffed.html

Shawn - Actually you are incorrect. If the C rating is correct then the reason for the higher value is lower internal resistance. Which will increase the consumption rate. If you calculate the internal resistance then the voltage should be at a slightly higher rate giving more power. More power on identical battery capacities means the higher C rating pack will discharge faster.

We are talking a minor amount of course that I wouldn't worry about. If the C rating IS HIGHER(not fudged numbers) then the higher the C rating the more punch and better the pack should be.

You can find more information here - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Internal_resistance

Only true assuming your system can pull that higher c rating. example. if a motor can only pull 25c then the runtime on a 5000mah 40c battery will last as long as a 65c 5000mah battery. If that motor can pull over the 40c rating on the same two packs the runtime would decrease. I doubt the difference would be a whole lot in racing though. How often are our motors pulling their max capacity? Not much or we would be melting wires and speed controls.

Not true. C rating and Internal resistance are not the same thing. You will get a lower internal resistance with a higher C rating however C rating has nothing to do with the power the battery puts out. It is the value that the battery can handle before it CAN'T put out.

The internal resistance allows the battery to output higher voltage at a regular rate compared to nominal voltage. It would be like having a thicker guage wire. The motor is drawing the same current however the wire loses X amount during that draw. C rating would be like the same example except when the motor draws the current the wire can't handle the current and would melt or fail.

Hopefully that explains it. We are talking about a very small difference here and it is all on the assumption that a 90C battery is rated the identical way to a 50C battery.

Internal resistance was the number one value we looked at for matched batteries racing stock classes. It gave more power however drained your battery more so it wasn't as important in modified where run time was the most important.

The lower IR – shorter run time is quite noticeable in many airplanes that are run at a fairly high average load. Normally not nearly as noticeable in variable lower average load car use, but TheZoof and For the win are correct.

Put another way, increased performance is not free.

The original discussion did not account for internal resistance. Just because a pack has a higher c rating does not mean it has a lower internal resistance. I was making the point about the c ratings (being the maximum that can be put out) if your system is not capable of pulling 40c then a 65c is going to give you the same run time. Now if you want to throw IR into the mix then sure. The same c rating packs with differing IR will produce different run times and power output. My only point was that c rating, by itself, has little to no impact on run time.

I wish more guys talked like you guys do. In my opinion the internal resistance is something that is more important than c rating. Thanks for the good discussion.

While C and IR aren't exactly the same thing, they are strongly related. Simply can't achieve a high discharge rate with high internal resistance. A higher IR than expected for a given C suggests either degradation or perhaps less than accurate rating.

Fully agree that IR is a more practical measurement for us, just as it has been for well over 20 years.

Back to the begining
 

I think the OP's question should have read like this.
How much current can a 13.5 draw in blinky mode?

Or... If I buy a 65c battery is it a waste of money?
Should I stick with the inexpensive 40c for blinky mode?

That's what I want to know anyway.

There is no industry standard for C rating on batteries.
You can use the C rating as a guide with the same manufacture brand name.

This is the most important thing to look at voltage drops on the battery under a load.
Dynamic timing (boost)on your ESC uses more and more amps (load on battery) to increase motor timing by blasting the coils with voltage.

Voltage is speed.
Power (Watts) = voltage X Amps
As above formula - the higher the Amp draw the lower the votage may drop.

Test your batteries under a load and you will be surpised at the real C rating or internal resistance.:nod:

As much current as you can in a race without a drop no more then
3 tenths per lap time at the end of a race.

Using a chassis dyno this is what I found:

17.5= 27 amps peak
13.5= 37 amps peak
10.5= 47 amps peak

You don't really need to buy a chassis dyno.
Just use a meter in your vehicle and run on the track to measure drops to adjust your mechnical timing.

Just install between the battery and speedo:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...eter_100A.html

+1 on SMC

GensAce -1 (good for 20-30 cycles)