S.Stew

iTrader: (13)

They were thread locked. The thread depth is so off I can slide the collar down the shock body. It immediately collapsed the shocks and dragged the chassis. Thread lock will not fix the issue. Had to use collars from a friends tcx.

Bishop

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, it would take a mountain of thread lock to stop mine jumping threads, I'm still waiting on replacement collars from TOP, no word yet, it's a good thing I had the ones from my old car.

And like you, worst part was not realizing what was happening till the chassis took a beating, kind of still a little upset over that myself...

TeamWTF

iTrader: (11)

It your really stuck and need to use the collars try a good amount of thread tape (teflon tape)

A couple of layers of that will get you through

vadersing

iTrader: (8)

Hi,

Any feedback on the flanged bearings to remove slop in the steering rack? Thanks

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

i put 4 flanged bearings in my mod car - top and bottom, but didn't have a good solution for the 'top' screw. if over tightened it causes some binding. i had one of the screws come loose -- but i was running modified. it definitely helped w/ the wobble... but needs more work.

ignoring that somewhat minor issue -- i have to say i'm super happy with the handling of my photon ex on solaris tires. this past weekend we have a great turn out of super fast guys for a cash race for 17.5 blinky tc. Larry threw down the TQ + win... and drove his ass off after both of us had the slowest cars speed wise in the a-main. I qualified 4th and finished 4th. I think if I had more rip I could of challenged for more. My car accelerated in the corners, not the straightaway

+ YouTube Video

skypilot

iTrader: (14)

really, I noticed it when assembling the shocks, easy fix, well mine was anyway.

Bishop

iTrader: (5)

I found the orings masked just how loose mine were during the build, and I never though to just grab a collar and try and force it, fearing damaging them.

But the reality on track was being so bumpy, you fired fast into a bumpy sweeper, and bang goes the collars, a couple threads at first, then by mid meet a lot more, with you wondering why the car suddenly won't turn.

S.Stew

iTrader: (13)

I had my kit assembled about a month or more before trying to race it. I noticed just from handling it that the collars were moving because the fitment was loose. I put lock tight in about half to three quarters of the circumference of each collar and reassembled. That took care of them turning on their own, so I don't believe this to be a suitable solution. Within a lap the car was exchanging ends and completely undrivable because the shocks collapsed.

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

I soaked my orings in oil for the collars prior to assembly. Id agree they aren't as good as they where.. but I haven't had them move on me yet...

S.Stew

iTrader: (13)

I swear I should post a video...I slid them down the shock body with moderate force. They jumped half a thread (crooked) with almost no significant force. I already emailed OD and he's working with me to get replacements.

Another note...anyone else having trouble achieving static balance? I've got pretty standard electronics but yet I don't have room for enough lead to balance the thing.

mpskls

iTrader: (2)

I used a needle noose pliers and tweeked the inner lip of the coller in a little bit and they worked great.

MDawson

iTrader: (27)

Why not just use and extra set of collars that are threaded upside down and tighten the two collar against each other to lock the collar in place?

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

Nah.
I rather just replace the parts if it was effecting me.
OD will do the right thing..

Bryan D

Hi,
Can someone tell me how many teeth there are on the white low friction main drive belt for the Photon EX and belt length if that's possible??

Thank you in advance.

*SBH*

More great results for the Photon's
http://www.redrc.net/2012/07/soren-b...d3-in-denmark/