Ride Height and Droop, my dilemma.
11-22-2011, 01:54 AM
#1
Ride Height and Droop, my dilemma.
I have just bought new shocks for both my drift car and TC. They are the same length as what was previously on the cars (both same chassis) 60mm. The come with 34mm springs and with the preload screw turned all the way out as far as it can go, my ride height is about 12mm. Not a good height at all as i would like to be running about 6mm on the TC at my home track.
So my options as i see them are,
1. Cut new carbon shock towers and make the mount holes about 6mm higher.
2. Use 24mm springs and add some droop to get the ride height i want.
3. Use 55mm shocks and a little droop to get the ride height i want.
I am kind of confused about droop etc, because if i have 12mm of shock travel and use 6mm of that in droop to get the correct ride height, i effectively only have 5 or 6mm of up travel, and is that actually enough? also, if i need 1/4 of a spring more rebound, and do not have it in the kit, i cannot use preload on the spring to tune it how i would on my motorcycle because this will also change the ride height to an unacceptable level. ALso what would the effect be of running with 0 droop, is this advantageous or does it have drawbacks? Thanks, hope you can understand my ramblings.
So my options as i see them are,
1. Cut new carbon shock towers and make the mount holes about 6mm higher.
2. Use 24mm springs and add some droop to get the ride height i want.
3. Use 55mm shocks and a little droop to get the ride height i want.
I am kind of confused about droop etc, because if i have 12mm of shock travel and use 6mm of that in droop to get the correct ride height, i effectively only have 5 or 6mm of up travel, and is that actually enough? also, if i need 1/4 of a spring more rebound, and do not have it in the kit, i cannot use preload on the spring to tune it how i would on my motorcycle because this will also change the ride height to an unacceptable level. ALso what would the effect be of running with 0 droop, is this advantageous or does it have drawbacks? Thanks, hope you can understand my ramblings.
11-22-2011, 02:54 AM
#2
Shorter springs + internal spacers to limit travel?
Droop screws are to limit the up travel on the arms. Not to adjust ride height. As an example, if the car was in a breaking situation, the weight would transfer to the front of the car, lowering the nose, and raising the rear. If the car was loosing the rear on the corner entry, you would need to prevent some of the weight going to the front of the car. So, you could use stiffer springs to do that, but what if the car was already lowish on grip on the front and stiffer springs made that worse? You could try laying down the rear shocks, but what if it wouldnt change directions well enough through chicanes? Thats where droop screws come in, if you reduce the up travel on the rear, by screwing in the droop screws, you prevent some weight shifting to the front of the car, keeping the grip in the rear while you were off power, but an on power situation would still be the same.
What chassis? And what shocks?
Droop screws are to limit the up travel on the arms. Not to adjust ride height. As an example, if the car was in a breaking situation, the weight would transfer to the front of the car, lowering the nose, and raising the rear. If the car was loosing the rear on the corner entry, you would need to prevent some of the weight going to the front of the car. So, you could use stiffer springs to do that, but what if the car was already lowish on grip on the front and stiffer springs made that worse? You could try laying down the rear shocks, but what if it wouldnt change directions well enough through chicanes? Thats where droop screws come in, if you reduce the up travel on the rear, by screwing in the droop screws, you prevent some weight shifting to the front of the car, keeping the grip in the rear while you were off power, but an on power situation would still be the same.
What chassis? And what shocks?
11-22-2011, 03:54 AM
#3
Shorter springs + internal spacers to limit travel?
Droop screws are to limit the up travel on the arms. Not to adjust ride height. As an example, if the car was in a breaking situation, the weight would transfer to the front of the car, lowering the nose, and raising the rear. If the car was loosing the rear on the corner entry, you would need to prevent some of the weight going to the front of the car. So, you could use stiffer springs to do that, but what if the car was already lowish on grip on the front and stiffer springs made that worse? You could try laying down the rear shocks, but what if it wouldnt change directions well enough through chicanes? Thats where droop screws come in, if you reduce the up travel on the rear, by screwing in the droop screws, you prevent some weight shifting to the front of the car, keeping the grip in the rear while you were off power, but an on power situation would still be the same.
What chassis? And what shocks?
Droop screws are to limit the up travel on the arms. Not to adjust ride height. As an example, if the car was in a breaking situation, the weight would transfer to the front of the car, lowering the nose, and raising the rear. If the car was loosing the rear on the corner entry, you would need to prevent some of the weight going to the front of the car. So, you could use stiffer springs to do that, but what if the car was already lowish on grip on the front and stiffer springs made that worse? You could try laying down the rear shocks, but what if it wouldnt change directions well enough through chicanes? Thats where droop screws come in, if you reduce the up travel on the rear, by screwing in the droop screws, you prevent some weight shifting to the front of the car, keeping the grip in the rear while you were off power, but an on power situation would still be the same.
What chassis? And what shocks?
11-22-2011, 04:10 AM
#4
Same thing. Droop is the suspension travel, downstop is the lower position of the arm. Droop is controlled by spring pre tension and downstop setting. The downstops limit the downward travel of the arm. Its basically a measurement thing as downstop measurement is different on different gauges but droop remains the same no matter what car.
Ie downstops of 4 may = 5mm droop depending on the ride height or amount of spring pre load. On a different gauge, 5 might = 5mm of droop.
So..
Droop: Distance the chassis moves up before the wheels lift off the ground. Or the distance downward from ride height when the car is dropped. Tool - Ruler.
Downstops: The measurement of the lower arm on a droop/downstop gauge. Tool - Droop Gauge + Droop Gauge support blocks.
Ie downstops of 4 may = 5mm droop depending on the ride height or amount of spring pre load. On a different gauge, 5 might = 5mm of droop.
So..
Droop: Distance the chassis moves up before the wheels lift off the ground. Or the distance downward from ride height when the car is dropped. Tool - Ruler.
Downstops: The measurement of the lower arm on a droop/downstop gauge. Tool - Droop Gauge + Droop Gauge support blocks.
11-22-2011, 12:38 PM
#5
Just had a thought... If your shocks are the same length as your stock shocks, what about comparing the springs? If the YR ones are longer there's your problem. Which means you would just need a spring set for your stock shocks. I don't know what LRP make for that, but if you measure them and post I'm sure someone can chime in with other options that are the same size.
Also, just in case you didn't know, measureing the length of your shocks is from the centre of the mounting holes. If they are 1-2mm longer an o-ring or washer inside the shock body will limit the travel of the piston, shortening the shock. Then once you have the right length springs all should be well.
.
Also, just in case you didn't know, measureing the length of your shocks is from the centre of the mounting holes. If they are 1-2mm longer an o-ring or washer inside the shock body will limit the travel of the piston, shortening the shock. Then once you have the right length springs all should be well.
.
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