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Tamiya 1/12 R/C RM-01 "Racing Master"

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Tamiya 1/12 R/C RM-01 "Racing Master"

Old 11-07-2012, 03:25 AM
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
The front track width is somewhat fixed due to kingpin location, yes you can space out the wheels if using "inch" axles, but the geometry will be odd in this configuration
Can you go into more detail on this point? What is the effect of spacing with shims on the axle versus moving the arms?
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Old 11-07-2012, 06:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Radio Active View Post
Can you go into more detail on this point? What is the effect of spacing with shims on the axle versus moving the arms?
There are folks out there smarter than I to explain this in detail

In my experience
Kingpin centerline to wheel location plays an important role in how any car drives

By spacing the wheel away from the kingpin the handling on my RM became erratic, and gained too much front grip, with little control. I believe the inside step on the inch axle spaces the wheel out to the max width, any more and handling deteriorates rapidly

A wider front end on the RM would likely improve handling, corner speed, and stability
It's no accident that the carbon chassis has holes for the Associated front end, or possibly some other form of new front suspension ....


Last edited by RedBullFiXX; 11-07-2012 at 06:56 AM.
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Old 11-07-2012, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
It's no accident that the carbon chassis has holes for the Associated front end, or possibly some other form of new front suspension ....
I thought about doing some measurements to see if the CRC or Associated front end would fit the bolt pattern on the RM01, but I kind of want to wait and see if Tamiya has something on the horizon for this car. Besides, I'm having good luck with the basic front end as it is.
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Old 11-07-2012, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by TamiyaMatt84 View Post
I thought about doing some measurements to see if the CRC or Associated front end would fit the bolt pattern on the RM01, but I kind of want to wait and see if Tamiya has something on the horizon for this car. Besides, I'm having good luck with the basic front end as it is.
There are 3 holes in the carbon chassis to mount other front ends, the holes would have to be countersunk in order to do that though

SpeedMerchant Old School, and R5 w/hyperdrive mounts are options I have been thinking about, but then it would no longer be a full Tamiya chassis....
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Old 11-07-2012, 02:08 PM
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I don't have any 48 pitch spurs or pinions so i modified the smallest tamiya spur 90T by reaming the center hole to 10mm and then pushed in a 6x10mm ball bearing and some shims on both sides of the spur so the ball bearing can't come out of the spur. This brings me closer to the FDR you guys are using with a 17.5T motor,1 cell lipo and boosted.
Maximum FDR in this configuration is 1.94 (90 spur with 47 pinion), that's the biggest pinion/smallest spur combination that can be used.
So far i don't know anything about roll out things (still to find out/learn ) but i gues it will show itselfs on the track if a bigger pinion is needed or not.
Tomorrow will be the first time i try the car with a 17.5T motor&1 cell lipo, track is a medium sized one
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Old 11-08-2012, 01:50 AM
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
There are folks out there smarter than I to explain this in detail

In my experience
Kingpin centerline to wheel location plays an important role in how any car drives

By spacing the wheel away from the kingpin the handling on my RM became erratic, and gained too much front grip, with little control. I believe the inside step on the inch axle spaces the wheel out to the max width, any more and handling deteriorates rapidly

A wider front end on the RM would likely improve handling, corner speed, and stability
It's no accident that the carbon chassis has holes for the Associated front end, or possibly some other form of new front suspension ....

The reason I'm asking is because I'm using the RM-01 front end on a scratchbuilt car.

With the spacing we started with I ran 3 washers inside the wheels (CRCs on flanged bearings). The turning circle was very large to begin with (to give 172 mm) and the car wanted to carve more than I'd usually like. I took 2 of the washers out and that certainly made the car more direct, I was much happier with it.

I thought it could be more direct still though, and was contemplating getting another chassis made to narrow the front end by 2 mm.

That was after the first run. Now after a 2nd meeting I'm not so sure. It wasn't so far off. I put the car on pole actually, so overall I was fairly happy.
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Old 11-08-2012, 03:26 PM
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Well tonight i did test the car with a 17.5T motor along with a 1cell lipo and boosted and man this car drives awesome.
The car felt great, wel balanced and not to agressive in steering.
The car went just the way i wanted to be, easy to control and so far i've only been using the kit tires.
I'm really looking forward to use the car with another up to date body and some Jaco tires.
All i can say is that i'm really impressed
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Old 11-08-2012, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by addicted2blue View Post
Well tonight i did test the car with a 17.5T motor along with a 1cell lipo and boosted and man this car drives awesome.
The car felt great, wel balanced and not to agressive in steering.
The car went just the way i wanted to be, easy to control and so far i've only been using the kit tires.
I'm really looking forward to use the car with another up to date body and some Jaco tires.
All i can say is that i'm really impressed
Cool
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Old 11-08-2012, 07:21 PM
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I have to say that I do like scale looking rides as opposed to the "Performance above all." look.
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Old 11-09-2012, 04:21 AM
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Today i got my jaco tires and body, but to mount the rear tires i had to modify the center hole. I did this with a body reamer.
The center hole wasn't big enough to go over the bearing on the right side and over the center ring on the left side. Is this a normal thing to do?

Another thing is that my servo is not a futaba (as mentioned before, my mistake) but a savox low profile, but so far i'm still unable to mount the servo saver correctly above the center line of the chassis.
The servo is mounted 1,2 mm out of center, it needs to move to the right side of the chassis.
Will the servo mounts of the TB-03 be the solution to clear out this problem?

Last edited by addicted2blue; 11-09-2012 at 04:31 AM.
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Old 11-10-2012, 12:27 PM
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I just noticed from a picture that tamiya is going to release a carbon rear shaft and some spacers for the front end, just look at the picture below.

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Old 11-10-2012, 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by addicted2blue View Post
I just noticed from a picture that tamiya is going to release a carbon rear shaft and some spacers for the front end, just look at the picture below.
I hope they pair the spacers with a cut-down front end. Even with shaving the knuckles, with pro-cut tyres the ride height is no more than 4.5 mm. There is still 2 mm available on the tyres by the time I'm down to 3 mm ride height.
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Old 11-11-2012, 12:24 AM
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the carbon shaft is the same one used in the F104 chassis series
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Old 11-11-2012, 03:48 AM
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Originally Posted by I)arkness View Post
the carbon shaft is the same one used in the F104 chassis series
No its not,its completely different
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Old 11-11-2012, 02:40 PM
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actually you are right i forgot about how the rear diff uses the pin :P through the shaft
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