Radio Active

iTrader: (2)

Can you go into more detail on this point? What is the effect of spacing with shims on the axle versus moving the arms?

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

There are folks out there smarter than I to explain this in detail

In my experience
Kingpin centerline to wheel location plays an important role in how any car drives

By spacing the wheel away from the kingpin the handling on my RM became erratic, and gained too much front grip, with little control. I believe the inside step on the inch axle spaces the wheel out to the max width, any more and handling deteriorates rapidly

A wider front end on the RM would likely improve handling, corner speed, and stability
It's no accident that the carbon chassis has holes for the Associated front end, or possibly some other form of new front suspension ....

TamiyaMatt84

iTrader: (21)

I thought about doing some measurements to see if the CRC or Associated front end would fit the bolt pattern on the RM01, but I kind of want to wait and see if Tamiya has something on the horizon for this car. Besides, I'm having good luck with the basic front end as it is.

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

There are 3 holes in the carbon chassis to mount other front ends, the holes would have to be countersunk in order to do that though

SpeedMerchant Old School, and R5 w/hyperdrive mounts are options I have been thinking about, but then it would no longer be a full Tamiya chassis....

addicted2blue

I don't have any 48 pitch spurs or pinions so i modified the smallest tamiya spur 90T by reaming the center hole to 10mm and then pushed in a 6x10mm ball bearing and some shims on both sides of the spur so the ball bearing can't come out of the spur. This brings me closer to the FDR you guys are using with a 17.5T motor,1 cell lipo and boosted.
Maximum FDR in this configuration is 1.94 (90 spur with 47 pinion), that's the biggest pinion/smallest spur combination that can be used.
So far i don't know anything about roll out things (still to find out/learn ) but i gues it will show itselfs on the track if a bigger pinion is needed or not.
Tomorrow will be the first time i try the car with a 17.5T motor&1 cell lipo, track is a medium sized one

Radio Active

iTrader: (2)

The reason I'm asking is because I'm using the RM-01 front end on a scratchbuilt car.

With the spacing we started with I ran 3 washers inside the wheels (CRCs on flanged bearings). The turning circle was very large to begin with (to give 172 mm) and the car wanted to carve more than I'd usually like. I took 2 of the washers out and that certainly made the car more direct, I was much happier with it.

I thought it could be more direct still though, and was contemplating getting another chassis made to narrow the front end by 2 mm.

That was after the first run. Now after a 2nd meeting I'm not so sure. It wasn't so far off. I put the car on pole actually, so overall I was fairly happy.

addicted2blue

Well tonight i did test the car with a 17.5T motor along with a 1cell lipo and boosted and man this car drives awesome.
The car felt great, wel balanced and not to agressive in steering.
The car went just the way i wanted to be, easy to control and so far i've only been using the kit tires.
I'm really looking forward to use the car with another up to date body and some Jaco tires.
All i can say is that i'm really impressed

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

Cool

snoopyrc

iTrader: (2)

I have to say that I do like scale looking rides as opposed to the "Performance above all." look.

addicted2blue

Today i got my jaco tires and body, but to mount the rear tires i had to modify the center hole. I did this with a body reamer.
The center hole wasn't big enough to go over the bearing on the right side and over the center ring on the left side. Is this a normal thing to do?

Another thing is that my servo is not a futaba (as mentioned before, my mistake) but a savox low profile, but so far i'm still unable to mount the servo saver correctly above the center line of the chassis.
The servo is mounted 1,2 mm out of center, it needs to move to the right side of the chassis.
Will the servo mounts of the TB-03 be the solution to clear out this problem?

addicted2blue

I just noticed from a picture that tamiya is going to release a carbon rear shaft and some spacers for the front end, just look at the picture below.

Radio Active

iTrader: (2)

I hope they pair the spacers with a cut-down front end. Even with shaving the knuckles, with pro-cut tyres the ride height is no more than 4.5 mm. There is still 2 mm available on the tyres by the time I'm down to 3 mm ride height.

I)arkness

iTrader: (7)

the carbon shaft is the same one used in the F104 chassis series

bakaguyjean

iTrader: (1)

No its not,its completely different

I)arkness

iTrader: (7)

actually you are right i forgot about how the rear diff uses the pin :P through the shaft