Orion V2 Stock Adaption kit
#16
Actually in person it looks good and the SV2 line is priced awesome. Yes it is not as nice looking as the V2 but you get the angled brush advantage along with alot of other leading features for a great price.
#17
Tech Regular
its not that bad, i might be interested how much does it go for? and will it fit my team orion element 19t mod with LOCKED 24degree timming
#18
I have tried one on a monster and a binary. On the track, it is okay. Here's some numbers that I recieved on a turbo 35. I can post the results on a turbo dyno if you guys want them. I have very strong magnets in both cans. I will test with sprints very soon. I bought the conversion used and he didn't include the brushes and springs.
monster with 767's before conversion. Red+, Green-.
On T35: 1v, 8A. 2v, 11A
Binary with 767's Red+, Green-.
On T35: 1v, 6.5A. 2v, 9A
Monster converted to V brush with hard springs and enduro's that are broken in with a fussy brush to remove serrations.
On T35: 1v, 3.5A. 2v, 5.5A
Binary Converted as above
On T35: 1v, 3A. 2v, 4.5A
I really want to try the endbell with sprint brushes though. I am waiting on my LHS to get some in. I don't have any of the dyno slips with me right now, but with the enduro's in use, I wouldn't even consider it a practice motor. I ran it in my 12th scale and it made okay power at the top end, but if i had to let off the throttle too much due to traffic, it took too long for my liking to get back up to speed. I even rolled it out lower than the previous run with the monster and it didn't help. I know that we don't race dyno's, but it always backs up what I feel on the track.
I will be trying it on a 19T C2 and an element soon. Those will be with sprint edge brushes. I will re-post what I find out soon.
Tim
monster with 767's before conversion. Red+, Green-.
On T35: 1v, 8A. 2v, 11A
Binary with 767's Red+, Green-.
On T35: 1v, 6.5A. 2v, 9A
Monster converted to V brush with hard springs and enduro's that are broken in with a fussy brush to remove serrations.
On T35: 1v, 3.5A. 2v, 5.5A
Binary Converted as above
On T35: 1v, 3A. 2v, 4.5A
I really want to try the endbell with sprint brushes though. I am waiting on my LHS to get some in. I don't have any of the dyno slips with me right now, but with the enduro's in use, I wouldn't even consider it a practice motor. I ran it in my 12th scale and it made okay power at the top end, but if i had to let off the throttle too much due to traffic, it took too long for my liking to get back up to speed. I even rolled it out lower than the previous run with the monster and it didn't help. I know that we don't race dyno's, but it always backs up what I feel on the track.
I will be trying it on a 19T C2 and an element soon. Those will be with sprint edge brushes. I will re-post what I find out soon.
Tim
#19
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
One advantage from the SV2 over my V2.......the way that solder the +/- wire........I am not the best mechanic on soldering wire...the V2 end bell just gave me a hell of a time to solder that 2 little wire...
This SV2 does saved that old and still good/easy feature..........and I would love to try it.
This SV2 does saved that old and still good/easy feature..........and I would love to try it.
#20
Tech Regular
yea tim please let me know how it worked out on that team orion element because thats what i use and i would like to see if you get any more power with this thing, but i dont know what your gonna do because the element has that 24degee locked timming
#21
It is designed just like the V2 with a solid aluminum endbell and it is also locked in at 24degrees. It is a drop on fit for the 24degree locked endbell cans.
I will post the results soon.
tim
I will post the results soon.
tim
#22
Tech Elite
iTrader: (6)
One advantage from the SV2 over my V2.......the way that solder the +/- wire........I am not the best mechanic on soldering wire...the V2 end bell just gave me a hell of a time to solder that 2 little wire...
#23
Tech Regular
iTrader: (2)
Originally posted by kufman
You can be a good solderer and still have problems with the V2 endbell. The copper and aluminum provide for fast heat disipation which tends to cool down the iron tip in a hury.
You can be a good solderer and still have problems with the V2 endbell. The copper and aluminum provide for fast heat disipation which tends to cool down the iron tip in a hury.
Come to think of it, the SV2 endbells are starting to look better to me...
#24
Tech Regular
allright now i'm gonna get one, but only if they prove them selves on the allmighty dyno!
#25
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
more info on the SV2
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/foru...d.php?t=181188
ONLY 21.99 for the locked timing
and 23.69 for adjuastable
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/foru...d.php?t=181188
ONLY 21.99 for the locked timing
and 23.69 for adjuastable
#26
I just bought a V2 conversion kit for my monster stock and I noticed that when I broke it in on my T35 that the amount of amps that it drew was a good bit lower then before, is this good or bad?
#27
Tech Regular
hmm so what do you think i would gain with useing this new motor and not my element? do you think it will be faster than the element or what?
or can you just by the endbell for any motor?
or can you just by the endbell for any motor?
#28
Tech Regular
does anyone know if this endbell has been tested on a dyno and compaired to a stock element, if so where can i see the data?
#29
Tech Fanatic
dont know if you know this
the v2 endbell wont fit on a commutator larger than 3/10'' in diamiter...............[that means most 19t motors]
#30
I was testing my new 9x1 on my Reedy Pt.
First run after run in it came produces 48430rpm on my CTX.
After putting on a V2 endbell, run in and it produces 54320rpm at 16deg timing.
First run after run in it came produces 48430rpm on my CTX.
After putting on a V2 endbell, run in and it produces 54320rpm at 16deg timing.