snuvet75

iTrader: (16)

The side links are very fragile I noticed. I traction rolled a few times on indoor carpet tracks and the side links broke twice. Does any other brand's link fit to this car?

jimjav

iTrader: (1)

Yesterday I had my very first race with an f1 and it went OK, I made the A final, but I was a bit slower than my mates. I was loosing near 1 sec per lap, so i have to prac tice a lot more and start understanding how to setup the car.

I also suffered from loosing the side springs, during the weekend I have lost 3 pairs how do you mount them to keep them in position?

Regards

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

Sounds like the setscrews are not in far enough. I leave a gap of around 1-2mm between the CF plate and the spring locating ball. Make sure your also putting the springs in the right way up!

jimjav

iTrader: (1)

I am around that, maybe i am not pushing them up enough, i will try to have some this week and if the weather is nice during the weekend go back to the track and test springs

cheers

snuvet75

iTrader: (16)

I'm pretty sure you didn't push it all the way up. You need to press the springs all the way up to put it in place. I use my nail to push up the top coil of the spring above the small notch that you barely see on the plastic spring holder.

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

Nice one Ludo!!

http://teamserpent.com/blog/2014/01/...cup-with-f110/

M7H

If you rotate the spring, "against the coil" while pressing it up the spring holder, it will snap into place. I've never lost a spring on my S120, unless I was in a pretty heavy crash.

ta04evah

iTrader: (2)

One thing you could try it to purchase a few pairs of the plastic retainers that the side springs attach to as they are not that expensive, and use some "Shoe Goo" to hold them on. When you want to change the side springs it's just a matter of unscrewing the plastic retainer off the set screw.

Cheers
Rob.

snuvet75

iTrader: (16)

I asked you guys weeks ago of how to get rid of severe torque steer and none of you gave me the right answer and I got the answer on my own.
It was the spur gear that I was using. It was tamiya gear so the holes were for 3mm balls. I had never used ball diff before so I didnt know there's a difference between brands. Serpent's balls are obviously 1/8" which are bigger than 3mm. So naturally the tamiya gear holes were too small.
I'm just apalled that nobody could think of that. I know I didn't know probably the very basic of ball diff and it's my fault that I was ignorant and that you didnt see the car but it's just hard to understand that nobody here had the same issue as mine.

BTW, the servo saver that comes with kit sucks. Everything time I hit something with front tires, trim changes. Switched it to Tamiya one and problem solved. I just can't help but complain about Serpent cars having so many issues out of box. S411, 747 and this. Even every car's instruction has some parts wrong. Then they make the building tips in their website. Why not change the manual? Just flat annoying. Sorry I'm just mad. Serpent cars are not for beginners that's for sure.

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

I'm sorry to hear that you've had these issues. It certainly wasn't something that I would have considered being an issue. I would have assumed that the diff would have been extremely tight and so you'd have picked it up before. Even if you were used to gear diffs the stiffness would have been obvious. The diff balls should be free in the holes not tight!

I've found the serpent manuals to be among the best in the business and rarely things do change. Especially in a newly released model. Serpent DO UPDATE the manual whenever possible and put the update online. The manual in the box says this on page one. With the F110 the manual is download only from the website anyway. During my build I found the manual to be correct. So not sure what you issue is exactly? I also have a 747 as well and with the latest manual downloaded from the website my build was perfect. As you can appreciate there will be older stocks around with the old manual inside the box with new cars from the factory will have the updated manual.

I don't have an issue with the steering saver. Are you sure you have the right spline adapter fitted??

Don't flame the guys here on the forum for not immediately being able to help on your torque steer issue. The fact that you used the wrong spur gear and couldn't feel the correct diff tightness is not anyone's fault - we don't have crystal balls!!

snuvet75

iTrader: (16)

Yeah sorry I know. I just needed to vent out.
I think I might have been unlucky with the servo saver. The outer most spring was just too loose even at the beginning. Didn't realize that till a couple of weeks ago.
The manuals for Serpent are mostly good and well made. I was not talking about the quality of the manual but the little things that need to be addressed in the manual.
Anyway, I'm happy that I fixed the problem and unhappy that it took a long time.

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

No worries. We are all here to help! Enjoy the car it really is good once you get the hang of it!! Have fun...

Maxou

Hi, I just wanted to know which brand of spur gear do you use on F110 ? (in 48dp if possible)

I have Kimbrough (from Amain) or Kawada wich fit both well but have too much play even if the diff is clamped. Also, you can only put the balls on the inside wich is pretty near the "D" plate or the outside wich is practically the limit of the plate (and will attract dust)

All is correctly assembled and the diff is super smooth, unless the spur gear moves a lot...

The only reference I see that can help me is Serpent 120032, -33 etc... for example, but it's difficult to find it here.

Thank you much if you know other brands... (I only need this part to run my car !!!)

AKRacing

Hey Maxou, I use 64p kimbrough and have slight movement in the spur gear but have never had a problem with it. Seems when aligned and meshed with the pinion it is fine. My friend just built an F110 with a serpent 72t 48p spur and it built up just the same. I'm still new to this style of diff but without clamping the diff adjust nut on really hard and locking the diff making the car undriveable, I've always had slight movement.

On another note has anyone installed the 200mm wide front end for rubber tarmac racing? Just wondering on setup or just use the same as 190mm front end.

Thanks in advance, Andrew K

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

I ran my F110 for the first time in super high grip conditions at TITC last week which was held at the HUGE RC track in Bangkok. Traction roll was my biggest problem but I managed to cure it with some advise from Ludo but this is what I changed too (from the stock asphalt setup) and the car was AWESOME!!

Front:
2mm 'E' Blocks
6 degree Caster
3 degree Camber
Soft RIDE springs

Rear:
800wt 2 hole shock in 2nd hole from bottom
RIDE Big Bore Purple spring length set with a little bit of droop
5.0 side springs set with 2mm gap between ball and CF Plate
Fairly stiff diff
FDR 1.8 on a 21.5t blinky setup.
5mm ride height