texastc

iTrader: (2)

Tamiya F60

Victor Vector

iTrader: (9)

Any one put F104 steering knuckles on the FGX ??

Anything to get rid of that bloody slop. 8x5mm bearings are beyond a joke.

Just lovin' this litle car..........and hurry up Troy

mkennedy

iTrader: (26)

it will increase the width of the car with the different offset of the wheels.

Team Lotus

How well does the Tamiya Ferrari F60 body fit the FGX? Is there a wheelbase issue, as the FGX has a longer wheelbase than the F104?

I prefer the Tamiya bodies to the 3Racing bodies; the Tamiya have better detail and look more like the real thing. The FGX body is okay at best; they could have done a better job than they did.

texastc

iTrader: (2)

F60. Pardon the horrible paint and VTA tires on 2 pics.

Team Lotus

Looks like the Tamiya body fits pretty well, except for having to cut-away part of the side pod around the motor area.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

I figured out the TP 21.5 heat issue today. I skipped rollout and went back to FDR as it just made sense from my VTA setups for 21.5 motors. I set the car up for 3.65 FDR, 26 pinion and 35 spur, and it ran just as fast as it normally had been with a 35/30 when it was overheating. Rollout is right around 54 mm (just over 2 inches). Temp was right at 115* for the first 2 minutes and at 145* after 10 minutes. I only got one run in today as we were racing WGT. I did manage to traction roll on the very last corner of the run and.... break my first upper deck. I think it is due to what Troy has pointed out, too much flex in the front end.

6376vette

Glad its working better. did you open the body vents? I'm ran a 3.05 FDR tonight and came off at 114. No timing though.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

I plan on opening the airbox. I forgot about it this week. I think it'll drop the temps a few more degrees with that kind of direct air flow. I had no timing on mine also today. I'm still impressed with the motor.

texastc

iTrader: (2)

My love/hate relationship with this car continues late tonight. Last week I hated it again, took all the electronics out and hung it on the wall. Fragile, fragile, fragile. I knew it wouldn't last, I think I even said it wouldn't last. Well with McKune and MantisWorx doing up some upgrades this week, I am excited again. Also I read some scuttlebutt elsewhere of someone else working on something. So I put the electronics back in tonight. With one exception, I also put in an LRP X11 17.5 instead of the 21.5. Couple of dark runs down the street to get it straight, and I can say its faster of course. But when I apply power it veers hard to the right. That's what broke it last week. I will check the bearings tomorrow, but what else could it be? Any thoughts while I still love this car?

hkbruin

iTrader: (1)

could be that your diff is stuck internally, or maybe droop settings not symmetric? Do you have the stabilizer kit? I use a precision digital caliper to make sure all of my turnbuckles and suspension settings are perfectly mirrored on both sides...

6376vette

Its torque steer. My rabbit does it too. Its because its rear wheel drive applying a lot of torque at once. Same thing a very powerful full size car will do. Best way to solve it is to lower the punch control in the radio and esc. You can also change the throttle curve to an exponential curve instead of linear. Other fixes are softer tires and a stiffer rear suspension but this can cause problems with traction elsewhere. Basically you're applying too much power at once. You can also work on throttle control to ease into the power smoother.

As far as fragile get a rabbit. I beat the **** out of mine over the last few races and broke one rear arm. Believe me that arm had every right to break too. I was hesitant to spend the cash but it was worth every penny. Now I'm not afraid to push the car. I race it just as hard as any other chassis without fear of trashing it.

kneedeeppow

i cant wait to beat the **** out of my rabbit. but even corner i come to during the build there is a road block. this chassis just doesnt want to be finished haha. after ginding down the motor mount,then the motor siffner thingy,re position the body posts to fit motor the list goes on. i got(thought i got)cunning and was going to use a 104 esc tray to mount electrics buuuuuuuuuut after mounting it all up i find the body doesnt fit over the esc shelf aaarrrrrggggghhhhh i dont trust mounting the esc to the 12mm of chassis plate either side of the battery so it goes on the shelf awaiting more cunning plans i cant wait to drive this thing,all you guys sound like your having waaay to much fun with yours

anyone have any thoughts re diff oil for low grip ashphelt?

i have used shimizu in the past and like their product but i have not tried the hpi bridgestone tire. i see there is a option rear soft, what is the d compound aimed at?

cheers

6376vette

for the esc mount I kept the fgx battery door. It works great. I did find that the pink body post still gets in the way of the motor. I'm using a Novak motor so it fits better and I don't need to move the post but it looks like it can be relocated forward a bit for more clearance

Not sure why you are grinding on the motor mount. The conversion comes with a new carbon motor mount that fits in the slot on the chassis. I think you are referring to this piece as the stiffener but it is actually the new motor mount.

I liked the hpi Bridgestone tires but I tried the grooved shimizu tires and they work even better. I'm using soft rear and medium front but our track is high traction carpet. I'm also using 1000 wt diff oil and I really like the way it feels.

6376vette

And yes I am definitely having way too much fun with the rabbit.