Team Losi JRXS
07-14-2005, 07:25 PM
#6601
Originally Posted by Randy Caster
I havent even mounted anything on the chassis yet, just put my battery pack in the cell tray and they dont align. My aluminum tray should be here sat though so no worries.
07-14-2005, 07:49 PM
#6602
Originally Posted by JRX-S Bill
Leave a pack in place for awhile so that the foam can adapt in shape to the cells in the pack.
I still prefer to use the original plastic tray for my 3300/3600 packs and the aluminum tray for the 3700/3800 packs. When I place a 3300/3600 pack into the new aluminum tray the first cell doesn't appear to be well supported. My 3300/3600 packs will eventually be phased out anyway.
It is important to have filed enough from the last cell slot in the chassis to make everything perfect. The last cell should be flush with the bottom of the chassis.
Filing (dremeling) the f/r slots for the drivetrain pulleys is the other must if you want to run the diffs in the low position.
Bill
I still prefer to use the original plastic tray for my 3300/3600 packs and the aluminum tray for the 3700/3800 packs. When I place a 3300/3600 pack into the new aluminum tray the first cell doesn't appear to be well supported. My 3300/3600 packs will eventually be phased out anyway.
It is important to have filed enough from the last cell slot in the chassis to make everything perfect. The last cell should be flush with the bottom of the chassis.
Filing (dremeling) the f/r slots for the drivetrain pulleys is the other must if you want to run the diffs in the low position.
Bill
< runs into room > Did somebody say Dremeling????
Brant
07-14-2005, 08:08 PM
#6603
<Runs out of room> Dremeling, dremeling, dremeling.
Actually, it's too hot in my garage; so, I am slacking off and watching today's Tour de France action on my Tivo.
Actually, it's too hot in my garage; so, I am slacking off and watching today's Tour de France action on my Tivo.
07-14-2005, 08:13 PM
#6604
My pre biult Fusion 3300's fit the tray Perfectly! It only takes a tiny bit of variation in the assembly to make them shift up off the tray, but the aluminum one wil ven fix that.
I have the aluminum tray, but since we can't run anything over 3300 here, it hasn't seen any use yet.........Jim
I have the aluminum tray, but since we can't run anything over 3300 here, it hasn't seen any use yet.........Jim
07-14-2005, 08:33 PM
#6605
Originally Posted by W.E.D.Jim
My pre biult Fusion 3300's fit the tray Perfectly! It only takes a tiny bit of variation in the assembly to make them shift up off the tray, but the aluminum one wil ven fix that.
I have the aluminum tray, but since we can't run anything over 3300 here, it hasn't seen any use yet.........Jim
I have the aluminum tray, but since we can't run anything over 3300 here, it hasn't seen any use yet.........Jim
07-14-2005, 08:36 PM
#6606
Just figured you guys might want my general setup that I have been running pretty much everywhere lately...
Let me know if you guys have any questions here or on my thread and I'll do my best to answer them as quickly as possible!
Let me know if you guys have any questions here or on my thread and I'll do my best to answer them as quickly as possible!
07-14-2005, 08:59 PM
#6607
SteveO??? Thanks for posting that set-up. 2 questions:
1 What does the moving of the bellcranks back do?? Does this just involve drilling two new holes and countersinking?
2 Can you guys make those set-up sheets a little easier to read?
Thanks Mr.
Brant
1 What does the moving of the bellcranks back do?? Does this just involve drilling two new holes and countersinking?
2 Can you guys make those set-up sheets a little easier to read?
Thanks Mr.
Brant
07-14-2005, 09:05 PM
#6608
Moving the belcranks back 0.150" alters the ackerman of the car... it's essentially like having a hole in between the two holes in the steering spindles...this is just a little bit more permenant....
And yeah, all I did was drill two holes in the upper deck, each 0.150" back from the existing hole... no need to countersink it though.
And yeah, all I did was drill two holes in the upper deck, each 0.150" back from the existing hole... no need to countersink it though.
07-14-2005, 09:06 PM
#6609
Originally Posted by Evicerator
Moving the belcranks back 0.150" alters the ackerman of the car... it's essentially like having a hole in between the two holes in the steering spindles...this is just a little bit more permenant....
And yeah, all I did was drill two holes in the upper deck, each 0.150" back from the existing hole... no need to countersink it though.
And yeah, all I did was drill two holes in the upper deck, each 0.150" back from the existing hole... no need to countersink it though.
Brant
07-14-2005, 09:46 PM
#6610
Originally Posted by POOKYT
Thank You sir!!
Brant
Brant
07-14-2005, 10:01 PM
#6611
Originally Posted by JRX-S Bill
I can just see PookyT with his 18V Dewalt drill now...
Holes for bellcranks are in the deck.
Question SteveO????
With my knuckle ball stud in the rear hole and with the bellcranks moved rearward, will this give me even more ackerman? Or will this make like a hole between the two knuckle holes? Thanks
Brant
07-14-2005, 11:46 PM
#6613
It's closer to being between the two holes in the steering knuckle.
07-14-2005, 11:48 PM
#6614
Originally Posted by Evicerator
Just figured you guys might want my general setup that I have been running pretty much everywhere lately...
Let me know if you guys have any questions here or on my thread and I'll do my best to answer them as quickly as possible!
Let me know if you guys have any questions here or on my thread and I'll do my best to answer them as quickly as possible!
Or can you post it up in the setup section of JRXS
07-14-2005, 11:50 PM
#6615
Originally Posted by DirtyDog3375
Just wondering if anyone knows if the Much More Motor Cooler fits without having to take the motor out???
You may have to grind a little from the motor hole on the bottom of the chassis.